After repeated shooting the cylinder on my 686 comes loose. I have been told to unscrew the ejector rod put nail polish on the threads of the ejector rod and screw it back in. I happen to have "Blue" loc-tite handy (medium strength, says it will undue with tools). Would this work, or is it too "permanent"? Even if only a tiny dab on the threads?
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loose ejector rod/cylinder on SW686
- Thread starter 300winguy
- Start date
Dfariswheel
New member
If you're very careful not to allow it to migrate to places it shouldn't be, it's Ok.
To tighten your ejector rod:
Put 3 FIRED cases into the chambers, with an empty chamber between each case. This will protect the ejector pins and ejector from being damaged.
Wrap some sheet brass, lead, copper, or leather around the ejector rod to protect it. Put the end in a vise, or CAREFULLY grip with a pair of pliers and tighten the rod down snug, BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Be careful not to bend the rod while doing this.
To tighten your ejector rod:
Put 3 FIRED cases into the chambers, with an empty chamber between each case. This will protect the ejector pins and ejector from being damaged.
Wrap some sheet brass, lead, copper, or leather around the ejector rod to protect it. Put the end in a vise, or CAREFULLY grip with a pair of pliers and tighten the rod down snug, BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Be careful not to bend the rod while doing this.
Hi, guys,
Check me on this, Dfariswheel, but AFAIK, all the Model 686 revolvers have LEFT hand threads on the ejector rod, so be careful when loosening or tightening, especially the former. You can twist the rod trying to "unscrew" left hand threads.
The change was intended to keep the rod from unscrewing itself, and it usually does so.
If yours has right hand threads, call S&W and ask about replacing it.
Is it possible that someone replaced the new type ejector and rod with the older type at some point?
Jim
Check me on this, Dfariswheel, but AFAIK, all the Model 686 revolvers have LEFT hand threads on the ejector rod, so be careful when loosening or tightening, especially the former. You can twist the rod trying to "unscrew" left hand threads.
The change was intended to keep the rod from unscrewing itself, and it usually does so.
If yours has right hand threads, call S&W and ask about replacing it.
Is it possible that someone replaced the new type ejector and rod with the older type at some point?
Jim
Dfariswheel right re using fired cases to protect the star locater pins and key.
9 mm cases work even better as they are tapered and really lock er up.
As Jim Keenan said...Yes, should be LEFT hand thread.
All L frames should be left hand thread. Most of the guns were switched to left hand ejector rod threads in the 1959- 1962 area.
Sam
9 mm cases work even better as they are tapered and really lock er up.
As Jim Keenan said...Yes, should be LEFT hand thread.
All L frames should be left hand thread. Most of the guns were switched to left hand ejector rod threads in the 1959- 1962 area.
Sam
Dfariswheel
New member
Jim give me a check please, my Kunhausen S&W manual is loaned out:
I seem to remember Kunhausen saying all right-hand S&W rods still had the expanded rod head, and that was how to ID them.
Is that right?????
I seem to remember Kunhausen saying all right-hand S&W rods still had the expanded rod head, and that was how to ID them.
Is that right?????
Hi, Dafriswheel,
Without digging, I can't say exactly when S&W stopped using the large rod head, but it was shortly after WWII. Since then, all the rods have been straight to the front. The left hand rods are identified by a ring cut into the rod behind the knurling.
But until the recent changes in the extractor "star" itself, the right and left ones were interchangeable on the same models. I am not sure whether the L frame extractor stars will interchange with any others or not, but I don't think they will (isn't the cylinder larger?), even though I suggested that possibility.
Jim
Without digging, I can't say exactly when S&W stopped using the large rod head, but it was shortly after WWII. Since then, all the rods have been straight to the front. The left hand rods are identified by a ring cut into the rod behind the knurling.
But until the recent changes in the extractor "star" itself, the right and left ones were interchangeable on the same models. I am not sure whether the L frame extractor stars will interchange with any others or not, but I don't think they will (isn't the cylinder larger?), even though I suggested that possibility.
Jim
Dfariswheel
New member
Rule 43-B NEVER lend your books to ANYBODY. They won't return them, you'll forget who has them, and you'll never see them again.
Jim: I trucked down the street and got my Kunhausen back.
You're right, the right hand rods have a groove in the end.
Jim: I trucked down the street and got my Kunhausen back.
You're right, the right hand rods have a groove in the end.
You can avoid screwing up the extractor rod...
by using a three jaw chuck to grab the rod itself. (Unplug the drill.)
Take the cylinder out of the frame, chuck up the rod in the drill chuck, and then by hand, tighten the rod 1/12 (one-twelvth) of a turn. That's the distance from a chamber to a cylinder notch.
It won't come loose from that. But you can take it apart the same way.
by using a three jaw chuck to grab the rod itself. (Unplug the drill.)
Take the cylinder out of the frame, chuck up the rod in the drill chuck, and then by hand, tighten the rod 1/12 (one-twelvth) of a turn. That's the distance from a chamber to a cylinder notch.
It won't come loose from that. But you can take it apart the same way.
Brownells has a great tool for removing the extractor rod, a circular aluminum knurled aluminum split ring about 1/2" or more thick with tightness controlled by an integral allen bolt. Simply slip it over the ejector rod and slide it down to the face of the cylinder, tighten (don't over tighten) and turn. My guns are right hand thread. Test yours and be careful not to strip the little darling. BTW Kuhnhausen is tops in these matters.