Just got into the suppressor game .... looking to roll up one load for several rifles, both bolts and DI AR guns ..... been reloading for decades now, but this is a new wrinkle for me .... all guns are relatively short barreled (in relation to my 24" barreled 270WIN hunting rifle) - 16"-20" .... any powders or bullet weights I should check out first for best performance with the can on? Been running WWB 150gr PP in the kids guns, so far, and just realized I had several hundred empty cases needing something done with them ..... thoughts?
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Looking to load 308WIN for several rifles, and run a suppressor
- Thread starter jimbob86
- Start date
Are you after something sub-sonic for the suppressor? If so, then it looks like the starting load of 10 grains of Trail Boss given for the 150-grain Nosler BT could instead be put behind a 175-grain bullet and be subsonic for both barrel lengths. Just develop it per Hodgdon's instructions to start with 70% loading density under your bullet and not exceed 100%.
Uncleick, no .... not looking for subsonic (yet- that may be a thing, later.... a 300BO upper is on the short list!) ... but I'm really not all that Tacticool ..... just an old Artilleryman that is deaf enough as is .... and looking to make shooting A LOT less intimidating to my kids and future grandkids .... just thinking along the lines of what I know from loading for short barrels ..... which tells me that heavier bullets and faster powders than what is listed as "best" in the manuals is generally the sweet spot ....earlier today, I read articles that pointed me medium burn rate powders and less than max loads ........
Faster powders will reduce muzzle blast for a given velocity, but that comes with the price of higher peak pressure. The army has addressed muzzle blast in the M4 with a faster powder, higher peak pressure in some new ammo, but it does cause accelerated throat erosion from what I've read. So I don't know how attractive that would really be and it would probably mean running above SAAMI pressures if you were using, say, 4198 without allowing a velocity decrease. Hodgdon shows 4198 loads for .308, but only up to 130-grain bullets. You could also look at their 3031 loads. Though, if you are looking for training kids, the lighter bullets and 4198 aren't a bad idea. You just have to watch for cycling to work out if you aren't loading singly.
mikejonestkd
New member
Like Unclenick said, 4198 and lighter bullets are a great place to start.
also, look at H4895 for slightly reduced loads, it tends to down load fairly consistently.
A neighbor has a savage striker pistol in .308, and I have an 15" encore barrel in .308. we both use 125gr bullets and H4895 for more manageable hunting loads.
as an aside, also expanding on Unclenick's post about trail boss - I use Berrys plated 150 GR flatpoints ( intended for the .30/30 win) and trailboss in a few .30 cal rifle cartridges for " galleys loads"
also, look at H4895 for slightly reduced loads, it tends to down load fairly consistently.
A neighbor has a savage striker pistol in .308, and I have an 15" encore barrel in .308. we both use 125gr bullets and H4895 for more manageable hunting loads.
as an aside, also expanding on Unclenick's post about trail boss - I use Berrys plated 150 GR flatpoints ( intended for the .30/30 win) and trailboss in a few .30 cal rifle cartridges for " galleys loads"
personally, i would be worried about cleaning the thing and carbon buildup. how do you clean the bigger suppressors you cant take apart? perhaps a sonic cleaner then dump the gunk out? I would be thinking faster burning, and clean burning personally. but that is just a total guess on my part, never loaded for a suppressor.
The main concern might be for DI Ar rifles in 308. Especially if there is not a adjustable gas block. You can easily beat a 308 ar into breaking by not paying attention. After learning my lesson, put a adj gas block on. You can play around with the recoil spring/weight system, but would not advise it. And may be better not to use slower burning powders in the 308 ar's.
No real problem with the bolt actions.
Need to ensure the center line of suppressor lines up with bore, and advise using a rod.
No real problem with the bolt actions.
Need to ensure the center line of suppressor lines up with bore, and advise using a rod.
personally, i would be worried about cleaning the thing and carbon buildup. how do you clean the bigger suppressors you cant take apart? perhaps a sonic cleaner then dump the gunk out? I would be thinking faster burning, and clean burning personally. but that is just a total guess on my part, never loaded for a suppressor.
Carbon Killer 2000 does a bang up jot on Carbon. MO is to do it at the ragne with the barrel warm (works cold but warm is faster).
I use an eye dropper to drizzle it on the nylong brush (holds more and I can use that with the Bore Tech Eliminator as wel)
I run the nylon through the barrel, drizzle on (or pre-drizzle) 5 cycles then drizzle and out and a wet patch with CK2K on it. Cleaned up old military barrels with it and they gleam (they won't if shot with corrosive primes a lot but most will)
Take about 5 cycles to clean.
Bore tech the same MO but only if I see copper build up past a streak here and there.
how do you clean the bigger suppressors you cant take apart?
I have been advised to run them hot, and the carbon will mostly burn .... like a self cleaning oven .... just don't get it over 900 degrees. That doesn't take much, from what I have seen on youtube.
Especially if there is not a adjustable gas block. You can easily beat a 308 ar into breaking by not paying attention.
The AR has run well with the WWB 150gr .... no adjustable gas block..... I'm running a heavy buffer in it, if that makes any difference.
I will take care not to push any of these loads too hard- it's more important that they work in all the guns than to wring every last foot/second of velocity potential out of them. I have a good supply of IMR4064, but the consensus here is that maybe the 4198s would be better ..... as for cleaner burning powders, are there any new ones out there close to 4198 in burn rate that are known to burn cleaner? IME, light loads don't burn really clean...
On mine, the heavy buffer route worked somewhat for awhile, until pieces started braking. It can help cycling, but the greater weight coming back into battery means more force. That being said, all rifles/silencers differ and a lot is related to the gas port size, or how many rounds you put though it. Have found very little difference in load combinations between 150-168 gn.
When using a silencer on 308 ar, mine gets filthy relatively quickly. Don't believe it will matter much what powder you run. Have not run any light loads through my 308/6.5 cm ar's.
When using a silencer on 308 ar, mine gets filthy relatively quickly. Don't believe it will matter much what powder you run. Have not run any light loads through my 308/6.5 cm ar's.