Hi. A local is selling a 1953. All matching with original sling, muzzle guard etc. Claims to be in excellent condition. Judging by his collection I have no doubt about that. That being said what do I look for or is there anything that would make this purchase ill advised? Thank you.
Looking to Buy a Swiss K11
- Thread starter baddarryl
- Start date
If its a 1953 its a K-31.
But no, not a reason in the world not to buy. They are fun guns, I think you can get PPU ammo (might be some in the stores even!)
Otherwise PPU makes brass for it as well and its decent brass. I shoot it a lot in a custom 7.5 as well as the K-31 and the so called 1911 (long barrel OEM mfg for the 7.5 Swiss though its got a minter chamber variation)
But no, not a reason in the world not to buy. They are fun guns, I think you can get PPU ammo (might be some in the stores even!)
Otherwise PPU makes brass for it as well and its decent brass. I shoot it a lot in a custom 7.5 as well as the K-31 and the so called 1911 (long barrel OEM mfg for the 7.5 Swiss though its got a minter chamber variation)
Yes, K31 easy way to tell is they are the only ones with aluminum op rod knobs, others were reddish, brown vulcanite. Looks to be in nice shape. Usually stocks are chewed up but that's common with the Swiss rifles. But most have internals and barrel that look new. I have a number of K31s and many other of the Swiss rifles, love them all. If you have the chance and are looking to get into Swiss stuff, a K31 would be a good first pick. What's the price on it?
Decent price. They kind of go up and down. Been a bunch on market lately.
$500 more or less for one in good shape.
One aspect of these is bolt closure is not like a standard bolt.
You will note the SN is straight up when its close, a bit of final Snick when it goes.
You don't want to try to shoot it unless you confirm straight up.
I have not tested it to see if it can fire out of full battery but don't want to find out if it can or could either.
They are a hoot to shoot. I love my 1917 and the K-31 just for the they are fun factor.
$500 more or less for one in good shape.
One aspect of these is bolt closure is not like a standard bolt.
You will note the SN is straight up when its close, a bit of final Snick when it goes.
You don't want to try to shoot it unless you confirm straight up.
I have not tested it to see if it can fire out of full battery but don't want to find out if it can or could either.
They are a hoot to shoot. I love my 1917 and the K-31 just for the they are fun factor.
Had one when they cost about $60. The scope mount was more expensive than the rifle.
It's very common to find finish wear at the butt of the rifle. Swiss troops would use the rifle butt as an aid climbing steep slopes and would also shove the butt down into the snow to hold the rifle upright when they needed both hands for some camp chore....or so I've heard...
I found the wrist of the stock to be too thick for my comfort. Shooting it the way I shoot everything else, it causes my hand to cramp after a short time. For you, that might be a non-issue.
The ammo imported with the guns was match grade stuff, I don't think you can get that any more, but with it the rifle was very accurate.
It's very common to find finish wear at the butt of the rifle. Swiss troops would use the rifle butt as an aid climbing steep slopes and would also shove the butt down into the snow to hold the rifle upright when they needed both hands for some camp chore....or so I've heard...
I found the wrist of the stock to be too thick for my comfort. Shooting it the way I shoot everything else, it causes my hand to cramp after a short time. For you, that might be a non-issue.
The ammo imported with the guns was match grade stuff, I don't think you can get that any more, but with it the rifle was very accurate.
ligonierbill
New member
The Swiss issue GP11 ammo is as good as advertised and still available on Gunbroker. Midway had some awhile back, but not currently. An easy round to reload, too. There is a lot of information online, as these rifles have almost a cult following. Go for it.
Yea, I built a Custom one out of a Savage receiver and a LW barrel.
Cartridge way ahead of its time, its really a modern Short Magnum. Supposedly (and likely) US ala Springfield looked at the round when mucking around with the 03/06.
Grain for grain it is more efficient than an 06. I get to Chrono mine in a few weeks.
One high end load in H4831 would not even come close to the MAX listed (have to Chrono that one and see where its at)
My 1911 shoots better than the K-31 even with the scope on it (its not awful, just not the famous 1 MOA that a lot get)
Grip is not an issue, sounds like a 44AMP exclusive. I have shot 8 hours days with the K-31 in the rotation and no problems (usually more like 5, if I am going I intend to make it worth the trip!)
GP-11 bullet is also way ahead of its time. It has virtually no flat on it, it curves down the Ogrive and then right into the long boat tail.
I think the closest modern one is the Berger RLD (could be wrong on that one).
Cartridge way ahead of its time, its really a modern Short Magnum. Supposedly (and likely) US ala Springfield looked at the round when mucking around with the 03/06.
Grain for grain it is more efficient than an 06. I get to Chrono mine in a few weeks.
One high end load in H4831 would not even come close to the MAX listed (have to Chrono that one and see where its at)
My 1911 shoots better than the K-31 even with the scope on it (its not awful, just not the famous 1 MOA that a lot get)
Grip is not an issue, sounds like a 44AMP exclusive. I have shot 8 hours days with the K-31 in the rotation and no problems (usually more like 5, if I am going I intend to make it worth the trip!)
GP-11 bullet is also way ahead of its time. It has virtually no flat on it, it curves down the Ogrive and then right into the long boat tail.
I think the closest modern one is the Berger RLD (could be wrong on that one).
No idea of fire forming your own but I would forget it. PPU is not that much and is good brass. The base is unique, I had to mill out a Bot head to get mine to work (larger, its off no other cartridge unlike the 7.92/30-06 that is parent to a lot of cases)
Lapua makes 7.5 cases but costly and hard to impossible to fine.
RCBS makes a good die for it. Don't get caught up in the K-31 vs 1911, the RCBS works for both just fine. Not an issue for you, I fire formed cases from PPU and segregated them so I have 3 different groups (Savage 7.5 barrel, K-31 and the 1911)
GP-11 are Berden primed and essentially unusable sans a lot of unneeded mucking with.
They are required for import, used to be under the barrel. Nice ones were laser etched.
Latter ugly ones scratched into the top receiver. Yours likely came in before that was required. Mine either did or was not enforced. I had a Modl of 1917 that had it under the barrel (SWANVT).
If you look at an imported AK, its on the left side of the receiver. Not pretty but they are not pretty guns and ok.
Lapua makes 7.5 cases but costly and hard to impossible to fine.
RCBS makes a good die for it. Don't get caught up in the K-31 vs 1911, the RCBS works for both just fine. Not an issue for you, I fire formed cases from PPU and segregated them so I have 3 different groups (Savage 7.5 barrel, K-31 and the 1911)
GP-11 are Berden primed and essentially unusable sans a lot of unneeded mucking with.
They are required for import, used to be under the barrel. Nice ones were laser etched.
Latter ugly ones scratched into the top receiver. Yours likely came in before that was required. Mine either did or was not enforced. I had a Modl of 1917 that had it under the barrel (SWANVT).
If you look at an imported AK, its on the left side of the receiver. Not pretty but they are not pretty guns and ok.
Since 1968, firearms have been required to have the maker or importer's name and address (city) on them. If there are no importer marking, then the gun came into the US prior to the 1968 Gun Control Act.
As to a case to form 7.5Swiss from? No idea. The .264 Mag is unsuitable unless you are willing to lathe turn off the belt, and then turn the head down an additional 0.02", assuming that doesn't cut through the case wall or make it too thin.
By the case drawing specs I have (Hornady book) the 7.5 Swiss is approx 0.022-23 too large to be made from the standard .473" head size cases and about 0.020" too small to be formed from the regular belted Magnum brass.
and yes, me finding the wrist of the stock too thick for comfort is a 44AMP specific thing.
I am curious, have you done this, and if so, how did they work??
Hornady book shows .284 with a case head of .500, 7.5 Swiss at .493" also .284 rim is .473" and the Swiss is .495".
I realize these are max specs, and tolerances vary ammo is always slightly under max specs, so it looks like it might work, so I'm asking, have you or someone you know done it, and how well did it work (if it did?)
It might take a bit of sleuthing. If not let me know and I can send you 50 at cost (brass and shipping)
https://www.opticsplanet.com/ppu-ammo-7-5x55-swiss-174gr-jsp-20-pack.html
Stores might have 7.5 loaded, fine practice and you can reload it (GP-11 not so much though possible with a lot of screwiness around)
And get on back order.
https://www.opticsplanet.com/ppu-ammo-7-5x55-swiss-174gr-jsp-20-pack.html
Stores might have 7.5 loaded, fine practice and you can reload it (GP-11 not so much though possible with a lot of screwiness around)
And get on back order.