Looking for J-frame action work
- Thread starter conipc
- Start date
Wildalaska
Moderator
What improvements do you want and what Model
WildcuriousAlaska
WildcuriousAlaska
ammo.crafter
New member
Can I assume a S&W in 38spcl? Exactly what work are you looking for?
orionengnr
New member
Wow...
Wildgenuinecuriosityandnosarcasm?...gottabeafirst!Alaska
Say it aint so...you goin' soft?
OrionFlameSuitOnAndZippedEngineer
Wildgenuinecuriosityandnosarcasm?...gottabeafirst!Alaska
Say it aint so...you goin' soft?
OrionFlameSuitOnAndZippedEngineer
Wildalaska
Moderator
Normal question, normal answer...try it sometime
WildtoucheAlaska
A "solid" side plate???
That would be a trick; since the lock hole is on the frame side, not the plate side...
If you send it back to Springfield, they will return it to you in the same condition it left the factory the first time.
Other than preventing the revolver from firing if the lock malfunctions , the lock really doesn't affect the trigger pull. It is a simple matter to remove the lock plate, therefore ensuring that it won't self-engage at the wrong moment.
But as to "trigger jobs" on J frames... it can be done, but it had better be done by someone who knows what he is about. While the parts look the same as the bigger guns, a J frame's action is stressed differently due to the coil, as opposed to leaf, mainspring.
IOW, you're probably better off living with the trigger pull you have. Getting rid of the retarded lock is easy; sending your revolver back to Springfield after some yahoo screws it up trying to do a "trigger job" on it is annoying and expensive.
Besides, these are belly guns. You won't (or shouldn't be, anyway) making any 25 yard head shots. Under stress, you're going to yank that trigger as hard as you can... trust me on that.
Of course, if you have a Kit Gun that you plink with; then, yes, a better trigger is worth pursuing. But in all my years of fooling with these things (including being a factory-certified S&W armorer since 1987), I've never heard of a mechanic who specializes in J-frame action work. The little suckers are simply difficult to clean up properly.
Yeah, people cut springs, install after-market springs, stone this, stone that... and sometimes the gun even keeps working.
Do you feel lucky? Roll the dice...
.
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That would be a trick; since the lock hole is on the frame side, not the plate side...
If you send it back to Springfield, they will return it to you in the same condition it left the factory the first time.
Other than preventing the revolver from firing if the lock malfunctions
, the lock really doesn't affect the trigger pull. It is a simple matter to remove the lock plate, therefore ensuring that it won't self-engage at the wrong moment.But as to "trigger jobs" on J frames... it can be done, but it had better be done by someone who knows what he is about. While the parts look the same as the bigger guns, a J frame's action is stressed differently due to the coil, as opposed to leaf, mainspring.
IOW, you're probably better off living with the trigger pull you have. Getting rid of the retarded lock is easy; sending your revolver back to Springfield after some yahoo screws it up trying to do a "trigger job" on it is annoying and expensive.
Besides, these are belly guns. You won't (or shouldn't be, anyway) making any 25 yard head shots. Under stress, you're going to yank that trigger as hard as you can... trust me on that.
Of course, if you have a Kit Gun that you plink with; then, yes, a better trigger is worth pursuing. But in all my years of fooling with these things (including being a factory-certified S&W armorer since 1987), I've never heard of a mechanic who specializes in J-frame action work. The little suckers are simply difficult to clean up properly.
Yeah, people cut springs, install after-market springs, stone this, stone that... and sometimes the gun even keeps working.
Do you feel lucky? Roll the dice...
.
.
My grandfather has a minty(well, was minty) S&W flat-latch Chief's Special .38 (he bought it NIB in the 50's). A few years ago he got it into his head that he wanted to do a trigger job on it himself. Despite my pleas to just leave it as is, he went to fiddle-farting on it. After his ham-handed ministrations, nothing but light primer strikes, and lock-ups. I tried to get him to send it to S&W or a good gunsmith for some TLC, but no, he says he can "fix'er up"....Yeah, he fixed it up all right. It's in pieces in a cigar box. When I inherit it, I'll have it brought back to it's former glory.
I love my grandfather, but I wouldn't trust him to field-strip a sling-shot....
nero
I love my grandfather, but I wouldn't trust him to field-strip a sling-shot....
nero
don't shoot it's me
New member
LSP makes some valid points...these are belly guns..if you can put all 5 rounds in the black at 7 yards rapid fire, you are good to go...just about anyone can with a bone stock 442/642 with a little practice.
LSP972 said:
What about http://www.briley.com?
I've actually called these guys and asked about their "roller-bearing trigger kit" with DA work. ($375?)
The site didn't say whether they work on J-frame, and I know, in general, smaller the firearm, the harder it is to work on.
They did confirm that they do work on J-frame.
The reason I'm interested in roller-bearing trigger kit is that the revolver with the best DA trigger pull in the world (according to S.W.A.T's Leroy Thompson) is French Manhurin MR-73 revolver, which does have roller-bearing trigger.
I've had my bride's SP-101 worked on by Grant Cunningham out of Oregon.
Top notch work.
www.grantcunningham.com
He only works on revolvers.
Top notch work.
www.grantcunningham.com
He only works on revolvers.
Red, I've heard about this deal, but have no first-hand knowledge of it.
My first impression is... might be okay for a range gun, but I don't think I'd want a carry piece with this.
And, while the Manhurin revolvers are indeed nice, the few I've handled were no match for super slick PPC action on a K-frame S&W, done by the likes of Bill Davis, Ron Power, et. al.
Of course, those are for target use only; no free lunch.
My first impression is... might be okay for a range gun, but I don't think I'd want a carry piece with this.
And, while the Manhurin revolvers are indeed nice, the few I've handled were no match for super slick PPC action on a K-frame S&W, done by the likes of Bill Davis, Ron Power, et. al.
Of course, those are for target use only; no free lunch.
First
No professional gunsmith will remove that 'lock'.
For gunsmithing check here: www.americanpistol.com
No professional gunsmith will remove that 'lock'.
For gunsmithing check here: www.americanpistol.com
Socrates,
No doubt your extractor rod was loose when you got the gun, and all the dry-firing caused it to back out and bind the cylinder/yoke.
This is one area that constantly needs checking on ANY revolver; that extractor rod must be tight. Takes five seconds to check, every time you have the cylinder open (unless, of course, when firing/reloading).
If you haven't brought it to the gunsmith yet, you can probably fix it yourself with little effort. If this is indeed the problem, getting the cylinder open is no big deal; tightening the extractor rod once you have it open, so that the rod isn't bent, takes some care and attention to detail.
.
No doubt your extractor rod was loose when you got the gun, and all the dry-firing caused it to back out and bind the cylinder/yoke.
This is one area that constantly needs checking on ANY revolver; that extractor rod must be tight. Takes five seconds to check, every time you have the cylinder open (unless, of course, when firing/reloading).
If you haven't brought it to the gunsmith yet, you can probably fix it yourself with little effort. If this is indeed the problem, getting the cylinder open is no big deal; tightening the extractor rod once you have it open, so that the rod isn't bent, takes some care and attention to detail.
.