Looking for gunsmith

A

aughtsix

New member
Hi, I have a Ruger Super Black Hawk 1976 Anniversary New Model .44 Mag.

It has a 7 1/2 inch barrel which is bulged. I have acquired a 9 1/2 inch Stainless barrel I would like to have installed. Hopefully it can be "blued" to approximate the blued frame and cylinder.

I live in the Rome, GA area. Anyone know of any reliable gunsmiths in my area?I don't mind driving 100 miles or so for a good install.

All replies are much appreciated!!!

Thanks to all!
 
Hopefully it can be "blued" to approximate the blued frame and cylinder.
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Nope. Can't blue stainless.

Painting it with one of the gun coatings like Duracote or Cerakote may get it to "approximate" the blued frame depending on how picky you are.
 
Nope. Can't blue stainless.
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^^ This.
You either need another barrel (chrome moly, blued), or it will need to be coated; either by itself to approximate factory blue as suggested or the entire gun in any color/finish.

If you're going to keep the barrel, look for a smith that does Cerakote as well (unless you're going to DIY the coating).

If you strike out locally, PM me. I'm a long-gun guy- but know a great smith nearby me that specializes in wheelguns.
 
Looks like Brownells sells a hot blue product for bluing stainless steel and cast iron. Google Brownells to view the product. Perhaps they can tell you who purchased the product or recommend a person who blues stainless.
 
There is a caustic bluing for stainless, but it is finicky. It was developed over the stainless used in the post-64 Winchester firearms, especially the 1894s.
 
Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. I may just have the barrel installed as is. I'll never sell it. It will be given to my kids or grandkids in due time.

I have a Cabela's about 50 miles away and a Gander Mountain over in Alabama.
Anyone have experience with the gun smiths at either one??

Again, I appreciate all the replies.
 
IMO, they would be the wrong ones...unless the are better than I imaging. You need to find a revolver specialist like Gary Reeder of similar.
 
Supposedly, Brownell's Oxynate 7 (I believe that's the one) will blue stainless but a lot still depends on the exact composition of the metal and that usually varies between manufacturers. I second the suggestions to try to get a chrome-moly or other non-stainless steel if you're married to bluing, or try one of the paints
 
No, Oxynate 7 wont touch it, (it leaves a black film that easily wipes off), but Oxynate 84 was developed for it. Though I doubt it will blue all stainless. It worked on post-64 1894 frames, which is what it was developed for. Winchester used to iron plate those frames, then blue the plating, however, that was later changed. I believe that Heatbath-Park is who developed 84, (see their PX-5 salts), and it does work on 1894 frames. It is not as easy to operate as they claim, ("reliable and easy to operate"), as the temperature has to be held, then allowed to climb, not like 7. I sold the outfit I had long ago for 84, and just recently sold my 7 tanks.

Heatbath:

http://heatbath.com/metal-finishing-products/black-oxide-finishing/black-oxide-for-ferrous-metals/

From Brownell's:

In the past, it was almost impossible for the general gunsmithing or bluing shop to blue stainless steel guns successfully. Now, with Oxynate No. 84, we have a superior formulation for stainless bluing that has met and passed all of our demands and requirements. It has worked on all the popular guns (S&W’s, Rugers, and virtually every type of stainless we could find), and even does a mighty good job on Cast Irons. It is predictable, repeatable, reliable and easy to operate. Blue an action or frame with a stainless barrel in No. 84 first, then go into the No. 7™ tank to blue the action or frame. The whole process is explained in the instructions.

We highly recommend you use Oxynate No. 84 for stainless steels and cast iron. But, it is not as easy to use as Oxynate No. 7. We don’t recommend it if a little experimentation and trial-and-error aren’t acceptable; we don’t recommend it for your only bluing tank - it just takes too much messing around to replace good, old reliable No. 7.
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Instructions:

http://www.brownells.com/GunTech/Oxynate-No-84/detail.htm?lid=10760

In operation, Oxynate No. 84 is not as easy as Oxynate No. 7 - but almost! You do have to vary the temperature between 240° F. and 270° F.; you may have to pull the part out and give it a good Hydrochloric Acid etch (until it gasses well), before the part will turn blue. And, you will have to spend a variable amount of time at the tank depending upon which temperature finally “kicks” the part over to blue. Sometimes the blue is incredibly jet black; other times, depending on the stainless alloy you are working with, it may not be as deep and rich a color. But, even at the very worst, we’ve always come up with a good enough color to match satisfactorily with parts blued in Oxynate No. 7. Because Oxynate No. 84 is compatible with Oxynate No. 7, it is possible to blue an action or frame with a stainless barrel in Oxynate No. 84 first, then go into the Oxynate No. 7 tank to blue the action or frame. The Oxynate No. 7 turns the stainless steel blue color a little darker, while doing its usual excellent job on the chrome moly steels, and seems to blend it all together nicely.

(Actually, bluing with Oxynate No 84 is essentially mighty simple, just stabilize the tank at 240° F., put the parts in and let the temperature rise slowly until they turn blue, then hold that temperature for about 15 minutes more for maximum penetration and color. The parts may turn at 245° F. - or not until 264° F. If they are going to turn - including cast iron - they will do so below 270° F., because above 270° F. you start to heat-kill the bath).
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84 is tricky to use, as getting that temperature to rise isn't easy, and they brag it up for cast iron. However, the addition of Oxynate S to Oxynate 7 cures the purple color on iron frames. You have to add Oxynate S to Oxynate 7 after you have blued about 2-3 batches of guns. I found that by adding S, it will also pretty much hide welding spots from both 60 and 70 series rod and wire, but it wont work for stainless.

Edit:

I also found that Du-Lite has a 3-0 salt. I think it is pretty much the same as Heatbath PX-5 and Oxynate 84. However, it involves playing with heated hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid and water, also (heated battery acid). They also give another 'proprietary' chemical to use, called Aldak, with the acid, for the 400 series stainless.

Black Oxide Salts for blackening 300 and 400 series stainless steel, Post '64M94 Winchester receivers, malleable and cast iron.

Du-Lite ships 3-0 Salts in heavy duty industrial 5 and 55 gallon plastic containers with rubber gaskets. The 5 gallon have heavy duty plastic covers with locking bands. This will protect the blackening compound salts from contamination and moisture for several years.
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I just remembered that a relative had an older revolver that had was slightly bulged. The finish was perfect and he didn't want a new barrel so to salvage it, he had the barrel bored out and sleeved with a liner. Good as new. You can have that done on the Ruger too.
 
If you want the toughest black finish DLC would be the one to choose. The finish appearance will depend on the degree of metal prep, a high polish will appear as that, a matte finish will be matte.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
 
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