Hi, I am looking for some input into my long range setup. I shoot a .338 lapua, ackley, with a 30" barrell, using a 300 grain sierra bullet and launching it at 2900 fps. I have a nightforce nxs 56 mill objective scope on this rifle. The problem that i have is that i run out of adjustment down range before i reach the 1 mile mark. I have tried a 40 moa rail and still only reach 1400 yards. Scope is currently mounted just under 2" between center and center of bore. Any thoughts?
Long range
- Thread starter Toddco
- Start date
g.willikers
New member
What, another comedian? 
Just get closer to the target or use a step ladder.
Just get closer to the target or use a step ladder.
What retical? You realize you don't have to use "zero" on the cross hairs and can effectively use aim points on the bottom post. Several of the reticals they offer will give you another 20 MOA using them properly.
You have 100 MOA adjustment in your scope, 40 MOA on your rail and maybe 20 MOA with your retical for 160 total.
This article says you need 196 MOA for a mile and a half, so 160 should get you to a mile.
http://www.millettsights.com/resources/shooting-tips/making-a-2700-yard-shot/
You have 100 MOA adjustment in your scope, 40 MOA on your rail and maybe 20 MOA with your retical for 160 total.
This article says you need 196 MOA for a mile and a half, so 160 should get you to a mile.
http://www.millettsights.com/resources/shooting-tips/making-a-2700-yard-shot/
Last edited:
Two options if you don't have enough reticle holdover for ELR.
Custom milled base (article by Dan Lilja):
http://riflebarrels.com/scope-bases-for-long-range-shooting/
Or, a set of adjustable rings- Stephen Ivey, may be others as well.
Micrometer adjusted, 50 mils available. These will get you there...
http://iveyshooting.com/index.php?id_category=12&controller=category
Custom milled base (article by Dan Lilja):
http://riflebarrels.com/scope-bases-for-long-range-shooting/
Or, a set of adjustable rings- Stephen Ivey, may be others as well.
Micrometer adjusted, 50 mils available. These will get you there...
http://iveyshooting.com/index.php?id_category=12&controller=category
JeepHammer
Moderator
If this isn't a troll,
Use a mount with MOA built into it,
OR, larger main body on the optic.
Some of the 'Fat' tubes are just that, Fat, and don't add any additional adjustment. Marketing gimmick for guys that will buy anything advertised 'Tatical'.
I only use Mil-dot holdover when I run out of adjustment or on shots I don't have time to properly range & dope the scope...
For guys that ONLY shoot extreme long range, I sometimes center the reticle in the tube,
Then work the mounts so they are zeroed at 600 or 800 yards,
That keeps the reticle in the optical center of the lenses,
And its easier to compensate for shorter ranges than longer ranges if you have to go Mil-dot or SWAG.
I watched a guy shoot 2,000 yards last year,
Accuracy International in .338L with Schmidt & Bender on top.
If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I would have called BS at even the mention of a 2,000 yard shot, but he pounded the target about 20 times, so it was no fluke.
I had to watch the target on TV, I couldn't see it with 10X binos.
The ride out to the target drives home the point of how far 2,000 yards actually is!
My old eyes and hunting grade equipment isn't going to reach 2,000 yards, even by mistake!
Use a mount with MOA built into it,
OR, larger main body on the optic.
Some of the 'Fat' tubes are just that, Fat, and don't add any additional adjustment. Marketing gimmick for guys that will buy anything advertised 'Tatical'.
I only use Mil-dot holdover when I run out of adjustment or on shots I don't have time to properly range & dope the scope...
For guys that ONLY shoot extreme long range, I sometimes center the reticle in the tube,
Then work the mounts so they are zeroed at 600 or 800 yards,
That keeps the reticle in the optical center of the lenses,
And its easier to compensate for shorter ranges than longer ranges if you have to go Mil-dot or SWAG.
I watched a guy shoot 2,000 yards last year,
Accuracy International in .338L with Schmidt & Bender on top.
If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I would have called BS at even the mention of a 2,000 yard shot, but he pounded the target about 20 times, so it was no fluke.
I had to watch the target on TV, I couldn't see it with 10X binos.
The ride out to the target drives home the point of how far 2,000 yards actually is!
My old eyes and hunting grade equipment isn't going to reach 2,000 yards, even by mistake!
Toddco said:
This makes no sense at all. I only needed a 15 MOA rail on my R700 .300 win mag shooting the 208 AMax @ 2760 fps to reach 1K. I have a Sightron 8-32x56 scope and had PLENTY of additional elevation left over after doping for 1K. I almost had enough elevation to reach 1K with a 0 moa rail but by the numbers I was near max elevation and didn't want to be faced with that situation. Don't know what the issue is but you need to step away, re-access your equipment and find where the issue is.
Any chance you have rings w/ built in moa and they are reversed?
-
I had an old scope once that sat a decade and it could not adjust elevation like it should.
I ran the turrets thru an exercise and restored the evelation swing.
The exercise was turning the turrets all the way one direction, then all the way the opposite.
Then 1/2 way back. Then place a mirror in front of the object lens and adjust for one set of cross hairs. Then do the usual bore sighting.
-
I had an old scope once that sat a decade and it could not adjust elevation like it should.
I ran the turrets thru an exercise and restored the evelation swing.
The exercise was turning the turrets all the way one direction, then all the way the opposite.
Then 1/2 way back. Then place a mirror in front of the object lens and adjust for one set of cross hairs. Then do the usual bore sighting.
Lost Sheep
New member
Least hardware solution
The suggestions so far all appear to be good thoughts, and mostly sincere.
I love expedient methods. Here's one that might do until you get your hardware sorted out.
As I read your o.p., the problem is that the sights adjustment do not allow your point of aim to coincide with the point of impact.
Simplest solution is to give up on the idea that the point of aim must be the same as the point of impact. The group size is the more important, right? (at least for load development, not competition)
So, get a bigger target.
No kidding.
One that allows you to sight on a bullseye near the top edge of the target, yet lets the point of impact remain on the paper. (Or, two targets if you are short on paper, one to aim for and one to record the hits)
For a more permanent solution, have you contacted Nightforce for any suggestions?
Lost Sheep
The suggestions so far all appear to be good thoughts, and mostly sincere.
I love expedient methods. Here's one that might do until you get your hardware sorted out.
As I read your o.p., the problem is that the sights adjustment do not allow your point of aim to coincide with the point of impact.
Simplest solution is to give up on the idea that the point of aim must be the same as the point of impact. The group size is the more important, right? (at least for load development, not competition)
So, get a bigger target.
No kidding.
One that allows you to sight on a bullseye near the top edge of the target, yet lets the point of impact remain on the paper. (Or, two targets if you are short on paper, one to aim for and one to record the hits)
For a more permanent solution, have you contacted Nightforce for any suggestions?
Lost Sheep