*Most* AR barrels are stamped with the rifling twist rate on top or bottom just in front of the front sight.
It will be expressed as 1/7 (one turn in 7"),
1/9 (one turn in 9"), ect.
For future reference, the smaller the second number, the heavier/longer bullet it will 'Like' (within reason).
Short range shooting (under 300 yards) won't matter a lot if you use flat base bullets or 'Boat Tail' bullets.
The BC (Ballistic Coefficient) with 'Boat Tail' is better on longer range bullets.
My old standard, Win 748 powder is dirty, and vocity changes with Temprature, but generally very accurate & less expensive,
While 'Benchmark' isn't nearly as dirty and is more stable with temp changes, but is more expensive.
Both do a VERY good job with .223 rem rounds.
AR rifles usually benifit from 'Small Base' sizing die sets.
The AR brass swell at the back end of the case, 'Small Base' dies help push the case lower portion back in where it belongs.
Get yourself a $20 case gauge (L.E. Wilson),
Size your cases to fit the gauge correctly and they will usually feed without issues.
Cases fit the gauge BEFORE you load...
If you use a crimp on the bullets, and many do, consider a Lee 'Factory Crimp' die instead of using the roll/taper crimp in the bullet seating die.
Roll/taper crimps push directly down HARD on the neck of the brass, often bulging the shoulder causing brass to jam in the chamber.
The factory crimp die works differently, compressing the crimp from outside the neck, NOT bulging the shoulder.
Keeps you from PRCISELY trimming brass each and every time,
And the crimp is uniform, not dependent on the trim length for proper compression/crimp.
If you are reloading military brass,
The primers will be 'Crimped' into place,
That hanging metal needs to be pushed back or removed.
There is 'Swaging' or 'Swagging', compressing the overhang back into the case head,
And there are trimmers that cut that lip/overhang off,
The choice is yours, and this only has to be done ONCE, the first time you process the once fired brass.