loading for .30 carbine

G

ghbucky

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Happy day, looks like I'm getting an M1 carbine. I've started doing research on loading for it, and I'm a bit confused.

My Sierra book says to taper crimp it, since it is a straight walled cased that indexes on case mouth.

But, when I look at die sets, it seems that the only set that includes a taper crimp die is redding, but their set doesn't include a seater die.

RCBS, Lee, Hornady all are just sizer, expander, seater dies.

So, no matter what die set I go with, I still have to get another die?

What gives?
 
Congratulations on the Carbine! The bullet seating dies usually combine a crimping operation, the die instructions explain how to adjust the die to apply the proper crimp. If you want, you can split the two operations by using a separate crimping die.
 
As LeverGunFan said, your bullet seating die also contains a taper crimp portion of it. So, you can set it up to do both functions at the same time, or just seat the bullets and apply the crimp in a separate operation.

Don
 
The Lee dies work well. The seating die also crimps. I don't know if it's important to trim the brass when loading for carbine, but it is very important when loading .30 Carbine for a Ruger revolver. Trim after resizing.
 
Generally,solid things are not particularly compressible . If you are going to crimp,its best to have a place for the crimp . Thats typically a groove or knurled cannelure. You might check to see if your chosen bullets have such a feature.

Properly sized,with .308dia jacketed bullets,I've always had good luck with just neck tension. I never figured a crimp necessary.
If you lightly chamfer your case mouths,using jacketd bullets,you might not need to bell. Bell with cast or plated bullets....but if I can load jacketed bullets in a .308 or 300 Blk without belling,you might find it unnecessary in 30 carbine.
If your bullets seat crooked,you might need the entry "funnel",but if you can skip bell and crimp,there are advantages. If you must bell,do so lightly,then just use your crimp enough to remove all bell and maybe just a touch more.

Its true your seater die will crimp. Back your seater die off the shellholder about three turns. Put a sized case in the shellholder,,run the ram up.Now turn the die down till you feel the die contact the case mouth. Note the die is up off the shellholder a bit. Screwing the die in more will crimp.

If you choose to crimp, a lot of folks like the collet type Lee factory crimp die.

Another decision you will have to make is whether to go carbide sizing die.

In fact,I have always used steel rather than carbide dies for 30 carbine. That means I can't speak from experience about using a carbide 30 carbine sizer die. Obviously,people do,successfully. I'm not making any rash statements.

Consider the 30 Carbine case has some taper.

The die won't be full length solid carbide. So some compromise is required.

It might be no problem,but I'll leave that to those that use them to comment on
 
HiBC: I don't have anything for .30 yet.

So, if you have a powder/bullet combo you've found that you like, that would give me a nice starting point.

Also what dies do you use?
 
Kind of suspect any .30 Carbine die set will come with a taper crimp die. Probably in the seater. No other type of crimp will do anyway.
I think my dies are Redding(not at home to look) never had any issues with 'em in 40ish years.
Think 110 grain RN's or HP's with IMR4227. Gives are very satisfying BARK!!! sound.
 
My dies are old Pacific DuraChrome. No longer available. If you go with steel dies(vs carbide) I think about any of them will load ammo just fine.
These days,availability will be a factor. Whether you get Lee Challengers or Reddings,you can load good ammo.

You want .308 dia 110 gr jacketed bullets,round nose. Just like GI. Soft points are acceptable. Availability might decide what you buy. Sierra,Hornady,Speer,doesn't matter much.
Starline will be a source of brass.
I have used 2400 in a carbine. O Heir likes 4227. Lately I use H-110 or WW 296

110 an 296 are essentially the same. Load what Hogdon says to load.Don't reduce H-110.

Its one of the best for 30 carbine and I stock it as my 44 Magnum go-to powder for stiff loads.
 
Its one of the best for 30 carbine and I stock it as my 44 Magnum go-to powder for stiff loads.
Click to expand...

I was considering 110 specifically due to the fact it would cover both calibers, but wondered how well. Thanks for the input.

Now to just find some...
 
Here is the official word on .30 carbines from CMP.

I loaded a couple of thousand using the recommendation in this publication. They all worked. When I got experimental with powder loads, I had various malfunctions. Because of space limits of the case, there's just not a lot of upward variation allowed, and loading lower than the milspec load causes ejection failures.

CARBINE SHOOTING WITH ACCURACY
Including How To Deal With Some Specific Problems
February 2007

http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMP_Carbine_Notes_2007.pdf
 
The CMP isn't the arbiter of anything firearm related any more than the FBI. The CMP is just a seller. Reloading .30 Carbine isn't any different than loading any other cartridge.
"...O'Heir likes 4227..." IMR4227 specifically, but it's my Carbine that prefers it. I just like the BARK!!! sound it makes. snicker. Tried H110, long ago. Wasn't as accurate.
 
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