I don´t have any of the recommended powders for the .22 Hornet listed in any of the manuals like Lyman, Hodgdon or Alliant. What I do have is IMR 4350, IMR 3031, lots of red and blue dot. I have 40 and 45 grain bullets. Does anyone have experience using any of these powders?
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Load data for .22 Hornet
- Thread starter pete5409
- Start date
IMR 4350 & 3031 are unsuitable, totally too slow for the tiny Hornet case.
Red and Blue Dot loads are possible, though top end loads with those powders are doubtful. I have no data for those powders in the Hornet, sorry.
2400, H110, IMR 4198 and 4227 are the more commonly listed for the Hornet.
Generally I use 2400. The Hornet takes some care to load, as the brass is VERY thin at the case mouth and very easy to damage. I find a generous chamfer of the case mouth helps. Also working SLOWLY and carefully seating bullets.
Red and Blue Dot loads are possible, though top end loads with those powders are doubtful. I have no data for those powders in the Hornet, sorry.
2400, H110, IMR 4198 and 4227 are the more commonly listed for the Hornet.
Generally I use 2400. The Hornet takes some care to load, as the brass is VERY thin at the case mouth and very easy to damage. I find a generous chamfer of the case mouth helps. Also working SLOWLY and carefully seating bullets.
ligonierbill
New member
Add Lil' Gun to the powder list. But my go to is H110. These powders are available if you search.
One thing that I've found helps me in seating bullets in the Hornet is to work slowly and just barely "kiss" the bullet with the seating stem, then lower the ram and check to be sure the bullet is not tipped at all.
Some cartridges seating will allow a very slightly tipped bullet, the die and seating stem lining it up then seating it.
My experience with the Hornet is that doesn't always work, and sometimes instead of things getting lined up and seating properly the case mouth buckles. Generally this results in a "lost case" that can no longer be used.
So I try to just barely seat the bullet, then check it to be sure its ok, then finish seating it.
I still lose a case or two over a couple hundred rounds loaded, despite being as careful as I can. However, that is way better than the half dozen+ I would wreck (every time) seating them the same way I do .308s.
pain in the butt, but it can be done, and considering the cost of Hornets, its well worth taking pains and doing it right.
Some cartridges seating will allow a very slightly tipped bullet, the die and seating stem lining it up then seating it.
My experience with the Hornet is that doesn't always work, and sometimes instead of things getting lined up and seating properly the case mouth buckles. Generally this results in a "lost case" that can no longer be used.
So I try to just barely seat the bullet, then check it to be sure its ok, then finish seating it.
I still lose a case or two over a couple hundred rounds loaded, despite being as careful as I can. However, that is way better than the half dozen+ I would wreck (every time) seating them the same way I do .308s.
pain in the butt, but it can be done, and considering the cost of Hornets, its well worth taking pains and doing it right.
Geezerbiker
New member
I like #2400 Rifle powder and IMR4227 for my K-Hornet and .17 Hornet. I use Red Dot with a lot of cast bullet loads but I've yet to try cast bullets in the Hornet...
Tony
Tony
Geezerbiker
New member
What mold did you get?I just purchased a .22 mould and have a lot of linotype stored so I´m thinking that I just might try that mould and reload a few to see how they go. Thanks for the advice
Tony