Liner-lock vs Lock-back knife?

Te Anau

New member
I have a cheap liner-lock (Frost???)that I have been using for several years and all of a sudden it is releasing under pressure and will be tossed in the trash and replaced with a nice little (sliding blade design :confused:) CRKT that I got last year for Christmas.Anyway,my question is this.In terms of raw strength of design which of these is better under pressure,the liner-lock or lock-back?
 
I think it has more to do with the quality control and fitting tolerances than with either design. But if you need to do a job that requires enough force to overcome or make the locking mechanism fail, you should be using a fixed blade. Folding knives are nice to carry but in real world use if the lock can fail (and Murphy is always on the job) it will probably hurt you pretty bad. I don't trust any folder enough to push it to the limits. Be careful.
 
CRKT makes some GREAT knives. That's all I really carry anymore. Got issued a Benchmade auto and broke the tip off within a week. Finished the job with my CRKT. Yes I know, not supposed to pry stuff with a knife, but if it'll do the job why not? I'm a little rough with my knives cause I'm used to brands such as CRKT that can handle it. As for liner lock or lockback? Liner lock with the strict rule that it is a name brand. CRKT have that nice safety release. I had a cheap liner lock that helped me see what my finger bones look like when it decided to close on my hand with a serrated blade. And I wasn't even abusing that one :eek:
 
Yep, never buy a cheap knife if you actually want to use it.

the best thing about a liner lock is that it can usually be closed safely one handed, which is often a great advantage.
 
Neither!

Ive never liked either and have had problems with both.I always knew there had to be a better way...

I recently found it with the Benchmade Axis lock(i have the Griptilian but its available on alot of models).:cool:

I'll never go back.

I dont have the link handy,but there are some vids on youtube demonstrating it.

Its solid/secure,easy to open and close with one hand,no putting a finger in front of a blade as you're unlocking it,and less chance of unlocking by accident.
 
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The "Axis" lock is stronger, more reliable and nearly bullit proof. Once you use a axis lock knife like the Benchmade Osborne series, you will wonder why you waited so long.

I will use a knife for a very long time and what I dont like about the line locks that I have bought is that they will begin to fail/unlock when you dont want them to.
 
what I dont like about the line locks that I have bought is that they will begin to fail/unlock when you dont want them to.

Ive had the same thing happen with the spine locks.I cant imagine the Axis being subject to the same kind of rounding/wear that causes it in the others.
 
If there's an actual strength difference between the two designs, it's not much. In your case, the real difference was CRKT vs. Frost. I would expect the CRKT model to win that fight every time. :)

The problem is that the liner lock is harder to make correctly. The end of the liner piece has to engage the flat on the hinged end of the blade correctly, or the liner, being flexible by design, will slide out of place and the lock will fail. Even worse, as the knife is used over the years and the lock engaged over and over, it will wear, which can mean it engages the blade at different locations over the years. That has to be taken into account when it's made.

When liner locks were re-introduced by custom knife makers, that wasn't a big problem because they were being made carefully by experienced craftsmen. There are also manufacturers out there who can turn out good liner locks.

HOWEVER, the lockback is a lot more forgiving when it comes to quality of manufacturing or craftsmanship. It's a lot easier to make a positive, secure lockback, and there are more makers out there with long experience doing it. So in practice, there can be an advantage to the lockback.

Throw Frost "cutlery" into the equation and the lockback starts to look like the clear winner, because Frost is generally not building a high-quality knife in my experience. I'm not trying to be a snob, I'm just saying that if you want to spend a low amount and get a simple knife that you can use and abuse, you're probably better off with the lockback. One way to get away with buying cheap knives is to buy simple, tested designs. When the cheapo guys try to get fancy, stay away.

In terms of accidental disengagement, it seems to me that there are always stories from both sides, and they're usually limited to those anecdotes. I suspect that different people grip knives in slightly different ways, so some people find liner locks getting squeezed open, while others find lockbacks getting released, but if those users traded knives their problems might both go away.

I like my lockback Spyderco pieces just fine. I don't actually own any liner locks at the moment (well, I'm sure I have a few old electrician's knives with the steampunk brass liner lock stashed away somewhere) but I don't distrust them when they're well made. And, hey, if it weren't for the liner lock revival, we might not have Sebenzas and Cudas with "frame locks."

That would be no fun at all. :)
 
I have to agree with Don on the build quality being the over-riding factor. Cold Steel uses lock backs for their Voyager line and I have never had one accidentally close on me. They use strong springs to keep the knife securly locked. If you get a cheap knife, I'm sure the components won't hold up nearly as well.

Liner locks are probably more prone to failure when cheap components are used due to their design. With quality knoves such as Benchmade, the lock is either made of titanium or a heavy gauge stainless steel. El Cheapo knives use thin steel liners that either don't hold up to heavy use.

Axis locks are awesome. The smoothness is unmatched and the locks are very secure. The Axis locks have a camming action that keep the knives closed, unlike liner locks that require screw tension on the blade. Closing the knife is very easy and does not require you to have your fingers in front of the blade. The Axis lock is hands down the best lock design so far.
 
CRKT uses a lot of AUS 8 and some AUS 4 steels. They are OK and pretty good in the toughness department. That's probably why the CRKT worked for the prying action after the Benchmade's tip broke off. Benchmade uses a lot of 154CM, which is harder and holds a better edge, but is a bit more brittle.
 
They are OK and pretty good in the toughness department. That's probably why the CRKT worked for the prying action after the Benchmade's tip broke off. Benchmade uses a lot of 154CM, which is harder and holds a better edge, but is a bit more brittle. .

ANY knife manufacturer will tell you, be it a custom knife maker or big brand name company, that while knives get used for all kinds of jobs, a knife is designed as a cutting tool...not a pry bar. Would you be surprised (and let down) if your Colt 1911 or Sig P226 broke because you used it to hammer a nail into a 2x4?
 
ANY knife manufacturer will tell you, be it a custom knife maker or big brand name company, that while knives get used for all kinds of jobs, a knife is designed as a cutting tool...not a pry bar. Would you be surprised (and let down) if your Colt 1911 or Sig P226 broke because you used it to hammer a nail into a 2x4?

Why you pickin' on me? I just posted my opinion on why one knife broke and one didn't and never suggested that using the knife as a prybar was a good idea... thought that went without saying.

Git yur next cup from the orange pot! :)
 
I am not picking on you. I am responding to your response and to scorpion_tyr's comment about his benchmade knife when he said:

CRKT makes some GREAT knives. That's all I really carry anymore. Got issued a Benchmade auto and broke the tip off within a week. Finished the job with my CRKT.

Who has his undies in a bunch now? ;)
 
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