Lightly toasted, but not burned......

A

Al Thompson

Staff Alumnus
Another one of those $179.00 police trade-in's followed me home a while back. I finally got around to putting it through it's paces today.

The shells did not want to load or feed smoothly through the magizine tube. New one on me. Put the gun up until I could get home and check it out. Turns out that there is rust in the magazine tube.

Note to self - next time check with a flashlight.

Anybody got any ideas on cleaning this stuff out? I bore brushed with a 10 ga brush and CLP. Thinking about some sort of grit impregnated grease, Clover or some other 1000 grit substance. BTW, with the CLP it's much smoother, though not up to specs.

TIA
 
Denatured alcohol

Denatured alcohol solvent removes lots of gunk from metal. It degreases completely so lube with something LIGHT afterwards.

I had this problem with Dad's old Mossy. I wrapped a patch around the brush to hold more solvent on the way in and more gunk on the way out.

Kroil penetrating oil works good also.

Regards,

Ledbetter
 
Wooden 3/8" dowel.

3/8" drive electric drill.

4/0 steel wool.

Rubber band.

Split the dowel at one end, insert steel wool, fasten with rubber band. Use low revs.

HTH....
 
Reality check.....

That's why I 'm on my fourth year here. (Doh!) Thanks Dave ! I've actually used 4 O for a bunch of things - including forcing cones. I was a bit miffed - perhaps that interupted my thought process. :)

Ledbetter - thanks for the tip about denatured alcohol. That will be tried in about 20 minutes...
 
Think I saw this on the 'smithing forum = about using one of those spring-loaded expandable brake cylinder honing thing-a-mag-jigs.

Sounds like just the ticket for your Gizmo-deal & (what was mentioned) & removing those stupid Rem-dimples from the mag tube (at the least cleaning up any burrs afterwards). Low revs - ditto.

& besides denatured alcohol, that Gunk-Out stuff/brake cleaner makes a decent degreaser.

Afterwards, I'd use a way superlight coating of CLP or similar & then swab that a couple times/fat dry patch - only want a very light film of rust protectorant. Even though plastic shells of today are pretty well sealed, you'd still not want to compromise your shells with a penetrating oil.

Rust in the mag tube? No worries. Long as it's still structurally sound ....
 
Dave right.

DO NOT use abrasive n grease unless you are equipped to completely strip and clean the gun. Preferably with either vapor degreasor or ultrasonic.

The grit tends to migrate and hitch hike on the shells......into chamber etc.

Sam
 
Sam's right

about disassembly. My recollection is I had to completely tear down that old shot gun and clean every surface. It hadn't been cleaned in thirty years and had been put away after shooting.

The mag tube was so tight I had to have someone remove it with a gun vise and barrel wrench.

Good luck.
 
Giz,glad to help.

On brake cylinder hones....

There's an old and dishonest tradition of using these hones to remove rust and pits in bbls. Naturally, they remove metal, sometimes a dangerous amount.

Be wary of any old shotgun with a worn finish and a shiny as new bore.

To remove rust in the mag tube, fine, there's no thousands of lbs of pressure moving down that tube.
 
Update

The 4-O steel wool worked like a charm. There is a significant amount of debris from the operation however. I used a can of carb cleaner to blast out the receiver and tube.

There appears to be some surface rust right around the block where the magazine tube joins the receiver. Not really rust as it appears on most steel objects, but more of a red coating. If it weren't for the rust in the tube, I'd think it was Lock-Tite.

I'm planning to get the gun refinished at a later date, but am curious if anyone knows of a product that will clean this stuff off. The carb cleaner didn't touch it. By the way, the tube is silver soldered - don't think it was replaced by some hack using lock-tite to join things togther.
 
Start with least abrasive

I always start trying to remove rust with a scotchbright pad and CLP, and work up from there. Steel wool, even the finest, is a last resort.
 
Giz, try calling Greg at SLIP 2000 and ask for a sample of their cleaners. Either the 725 or the piston/choke tube cleaner may be the ticket. Lube immediately. Had good results w/these myself.
 
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