I use Lapua brass in 22-250. I neck size and use Redding comp bushing dies. I trim after every use before reloading just to keep the brass uniform. I have noticed that after 7 reloadings my groups grow from the .3's to the high .4's and sometimes over 1/2". This didn't happen when I shot a .308. I also noticed that the velocity was rising as the brass got older. I use a body die every couple of reloadings. I use AA 2520 and bullets from BIB. I have always gotten more use out of brass than this, is this normal?
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Life of 22-250 Brass
- Thread starter Poconolg
- Start date
mikejonestkd
New member
I am using lapua brass in the 22-250 as well, and I am using a Lee collet die. Full length resizing after 5 neck only times. I don't push the velocity to the max, and am at 8 loads on my current batch of brass. So far, there is no ring on the base, or rough spots on the inside of the brass.
I recall winchester brass lasted about 8 before I bought the Lapua brass.
I recall winchester brass lasted about 8 before I bought the Lapua brass.
I have been shooting Lapua brass in my .22-250 for several years and trim after full resizing results in cases getting to 1.910 case length. Then I trim the cases back to 1.900 and start all over again. My OAL is usually from 2.360 to 2.370 with velocities around 3450 fps.
I think that brass life has a lot to do with how hot the loads you shoot are.
I load in the middle of the load tables for my Remington 700 based upon what has shot the most accurately. I mostly load 52 and 53 grain Sierra Match Kings, and 52 grain Berger bullets and have averaged about 12 to 14 reloads before the primer pockets begin to wear out or the necks start to break down. I used to get less than 8 reloads with Federal or Winchester brass before I switched to Lapua brass.
I haven't noticed any change in accuracy at any time during the reloading cycles. Over 838 groups, the average groups size has been 0.366, so the performance hasn't been all that bad for over 4,000 rounds. I have been amazed that the barrel has held up so well over that kind of volume but that might be from not pushing the loads towards the max.
As a point of comparison, with my .308s, I get about 20 reloads with Lapua brass limited mostly by the primer pockets wearing out. Again, I don't go for max loads since I am target shooting for accuracy only.
Conversely, with my 6.5 mm Creedmoor with Norma and Hornady brass, I have been only getting about 4 reloads before the large rifle primer pockets wear out. I have just switched to Lapua brass with small rifle primer pockets and hope that will increase the brass life. Sorry, I don't have enough reloads yet with Lapua brass to give a report on Lapua brass life with the small rifle primers.
I think that brass life has a lot to do with how hot the loads you shoot are.
I load in the middle of the load tables for my Remington 700 based upon what has shot the most accurately. I mostly load 52 and 53 grain Sierra Match Kings, and 52 grain Berger bullets and have averaged about 12 to 14 reloads before the primer pockets begin to wear out or the necks start to break down. I used to get less than 8 reloads with Federal or Winchester brass before I switched to Lapua brass.
I haven't noticed any change in accuracy at any time during the reloading cycles. Over 838 groups, the average groups size has been 0.366, so the performance hasn't been all that bad for over 4,000 rounds. I have been amazed that the barrel has held up so well over that kind of volume but that might be from not pushing the loads towards the max.
As a point of comparison, with my .308s, I get about 20 reloads with Lapua brass limited mostly by the primer pockets wearing out. Again, I don't go for max loads since I am target shooting for accuracy only.
Conversely, with my 6.5 mm Creedmoor with Norma and Hornady brass, I have been only getting about 4 reloads before the large rifle primer pockets wear out. I have just switched to Lapua brass with small rifle primer pockets and hope that will increase the brass life. Sorry, I don't have enough reloads yet with Lapua brass to give a report on Lapua brass life with the small rifle primers.
603Country
New member
Like Rimfire said, max loads lead to shorter brass life. For what it's worth, I got the longest case life in my 220 Swift using Norma brass. Back then I Partial Resized, as explained in the old Nosler loading handbooks. And I was shooting some pretty hot loads.
As for your accuracy getting worse after 7 reloads, I'll guess that it has to do with inconsistent neck tension. Annealing should fix that.
As for your accuracy getting worse after 7 reloads, I'll guess that it has to do with inconsistent neck tension. Annealing should fix that.
Seems that many 'viewers' are not paying attention to 'reloading basics'. IF you continue to resize brass to 'min'. specs, there is an awfully good chance that you are pushing the shoulder back further than what fits your chamber. And that causes 'premature' case separation. Try bumping it back .001-002" when resizing; your brass will fit perfectly. If you aren't annealing, they will eventually fail in the neck.
For an experiment one time, I tracked 50 rds. of mil. .223 brass, and found that I started losing brass due to cracked necks, at over 20 loadings. Now I anneal every time, and the jury is out, but this brass is going to last a very long time.
For an experiment one time, I tracked 50 rds. of mil. .223 brass, and found that I started losing brass due to cracked necks, at over 20 loadings. Now I anneal every time, and the jury is out, but this brass is going to last a very long time.
"...I trim after every use..." No need for that. Trimming is only done when it's required. Check 'em for sure though. Set your calipres to 1.912" and use it as a case length gauge.
Max case length for .22-250 is 1.912" with a -.020 tolerance. (That's 1.892" minimum.) Trim-to is 1.902". (Rimfire5's 1.900" is close enough. 2 thou won't matter.) As long as the case is shorter than 1.912" you don't need to trim. Case life is entirely dependent on the load used. Hot loads lessen it. However, repeated firing and resizing will work harden the brass. Neck sizing only is fine, but you sooner or later you'll have to FL resize anyway. When you get one case neck crack, pitch that one and anneal the rest.
Annealing is not rocket science and you do not need anything more than a propane torch and a pan of tap water up to the case shoulder to do it. Cases in the water and heat the neck and shoulders until the colour changes(not red hot, ever. That's too hot.) and tip 'em. Done.
Max case length for .22-250 is 1.912" with a -.020 tolerance. (That's 1.892" minimum.) Trim-to is 1.902". (Rimfire5's 1.900" is close enough. 2 thou won't matter.) As long as the case is shorter than 1.912" you don't need to trim. Case life is entirely dependent on the load used. Hot loads lessen it. However, repeated firing and resizing will work harden the brass. Neck sizing only is fine, but you sooner or later you'll have to FL resize anyway. When you get one case neck crack, pitch that one and anneal the rest.
Annealing is not rocket science and you do not need anything more than a propane torch and a pan of tap water up to the case shoulder to do it. Cases in the water and heat the neck and shoulders until the colour changes(not red hot, ever. That's too hot.) and tip 'em. Done.
Here is a chart to go with my original post. I shoot 45rds each week in 5 shot groups. Using per cent each group would be 11%.
Week % of groups under 3/8 Av velocity
1 11 3624
2 33 3641
3 44 3687
4 77 3696
5 55 3718
6 44 3748
7 33 3765
8 11 3789
To me this looks like a classic Bell Curve. It also proves to me that I have to use new brass after 6 reloadings. Any input from the experts?
Week % of groups under 3/8 Av velocity
1 11 3624
2 33 3641
3 44 3687
4 77 3696
5 55 3718
6 44 3748
7 33 3765
8 11 3789
To me this looks like a classic Bell Curve. It also proves to me that I have to use new brass after 6 reloadings. Any input from the experts?