Lever Action Accuracy
- Thread starter Tom B
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Robert the41MagFan
New member
At one hundred yards 2 inches is good accuracy, three inches is acceptable and 1 1/2 inches is extreme. All my lever guns get a bit of a workout to get them within these ranges.
This is extreme. You get this with tons of TLC and a little help from your friends (in my case, hand crafted bullets from a artist).
Robert
This is extreme. You get this with tons of TLC and a little help from your friends (in my case, hand crafted bullets from a artist).
Robert
RIFLE and HANDLOADER Magazines put out a one time issue on lever action rifles, in which author Dave Scovill sai he could get one inch groups from lever actions and single shots such as the Ruger #1. I don't know if copies are still available from them, but it is called "THE LEGACY OF LEVER GUNS". For those of you who own Winchesters, it also has a list of serial numbers and the years of manufacture.
I did try his method of bench testing several model 94's, and it does seem to work as he stated.
Rather than resting the forearm on the sandbag, you rest the rifle right in front of the trigger guard/lever on the receiver. Why this works, I don't know, but I did knock off as musch a .25 to .5 inch in group size. Not as much improvement as he says, but maybe with more practice I can see better groups, as I've only tried this a couple of times.
Paul B.
I did try his method of bench testing several model 94's, and it does seem to work as he stated.
Rather than resting the forearm on the sandbag, you rest the rifle right in front of the trigger guard/lever on the receiver. Why this works, I don't know, but I did knock off as musch a .25 to .5 inch in group size. Not as much improvement as he says, but maybe with more practice I can see better groups, as I've only tried this a couple of times.
Paul B.
Payette Jack
New member
If you like leverguns and are looking for accuracy, you might want to investigate a Savage Model 99. I've got the "Featherweight" model in .308 that I wouldn't trade for anything. Most model 99s came in .300 Savage. The .300 Savage fits somewhere between the 30-30 and .308 and is a vastly underrated deer cartridge.
I'm new to centerfire rifles though I've shot rimfires all my life. I have a couple of related questions about measuring groups and the expected accuracy of a rifle...
I got a .30-30 Marlin 336 last year for deer hunting. Right now it has a cheap Simmons 3-9x40 (8-Point model) on some Weaver See-Thru Mounts. All the scope and mount purists are cringing right now, and I'm sure I'll get flames. But I like the setup, and I'm the one that has to shoot it.
I've only shot groups with the rifle at one range session, where I shot off of Protektor bags with plain-jane Remington Core-Lokt (150 gr). On the first group, I got three shots under an inch at 100 yards. I was quite happy with these results. This rifle was right out of the box with no work other than putting on the scope.
The pic here shows the 7th, 8th, and 9th cartridges I put through the rifle (took six shots to get sighted in to my satisfaction). Those are 1/2 inch grids, and in my understanding, you count the largest two-shot spread--center to center. (Or you can measure edge to edge and add the caliber of the bullet, right?) Here, the biggest spread between two shots was just under three-quarters of an inch. Am I measuring my groups correctly? I don't have calipers or anything fancy...just a normal old ruler calibrated to sixteenths of an inch.
After this group, I shot 3-shot groups of 2 inches, 1 1/2 inches, and 2 inches. I'm wondering if I should expect similar accuracy with good maintenance of the rifle. Or will its accuracy decline as the rifle gets older and gets more rounds through it?
[Edited by Guyon on 02-16-2001 at 04:12 PM]
I got a .30-30 Marlin 336 last year for deer hunting. Right now it has a cheap Simmons 3-9x40 (8-Point model) on some Weaver See-Thru Mounts. All the scope and mount purists are cringing right now, and I'm sure I'll get flames. But I like the setup, and I'm the one that has to shoot it.
I've only shot groups with the rifle at one range session, where I shot off of Protektor bags with plain-jane Remington Core-Lokt (150 gr). On the first group, I got three shots under an inch at 100 yards. I was quite happy with these results. This rifle was right out of the box with no work other than putting on the scope.
The pic here shows the 7th, 8th, and 9th cartridges I put through the rifle (took six shots to get sighted in to my satisfaction). Those are 1/2 inch grids, and in my understanding, you count the largest two-shot spread--center to center. (Or you can measure edge to edge and add the caliber of the bullet, right?) Here, the biggest spread between two shots was just under three-quarters of an inch. Am I measuring my groups correctly? I don't have calipers or anything fancy...just a normal old ruler calibrated to sixteenths of an inch.
After this group, I shot 3-shot groups of 2 inches, 1 1/2 inches, and 2 inches. I'm wondering if I should expect similar accuracy with good maintenance of the rifle. Or will its accuracy decline as the rifle gets older and gets more rounds through it?
[Edited by Guyon on 02-16-2001 at 04:12 PM]
I also have used that sandbag method ...
and at least for my Trapper, it's the only way to go. I began shooting this new gun by just resting it on ONE sandbag right in front of the lever, and was immediately rewarded with the 1.5 - 2 " groups these guys are talking about. When doing this, it is essential to not press down on the gun - just wallow out a place in the sandbag for it and let it "lay", letting the fingers of your free hand steady the barrel while applying NO pressure on it.
Later, on a whim, I put another bag under the barrel and accuracy went all to hell, even to the point that I thought there was something wrong with my scope or reloads. I went back to my old method and everything was right again.
So, I'm convinced.
I'm not saying I could shoot nearly this good offhand, but I'm convinced of the lever gun's accuracy.
and at least for my Trapper, it's the only way to go. I began shooting this new gun by just resting it on ONE sandbag right in front of the lever, and was immediately rewarded with the 1.5 - 2 " groups these guys are talking about. When doing this, it is essential to not press down on the gun - just wallow out a place in the sandbag for it and let it "lay", letting the fingers of your free hand steady the barrel while applying NO pressure on it.
Later, on a whim, I put another bag under the barrel and accuracy went all to hell, even to the point that I thought there was something wrong with my scope or reloads. I went back to my old method and everything was right again.
So, I'm convinced.
I'm not saying I could shoot nearly this good offhand, but I'm convinced of the lever gun's accuracy.
Michael Priddy
New member
Good ole thuty-thuty
I am glad to see so much interest in 30-30s. The best I can do with open sites, bifocals and 125gr. Sierra flat nose hollow points at 100yds are 3-4 inch groups. My 30-30 is a Golden Centennial rifle that I got for my high school graduation present.( it came out the same year I graduated ) It is the only open sited rifle I have. I am thinking about putting a Wilson adjustable rear site and a beaded front site on before the next deer season. A friend of mine did that to his Buffalo Bill and it is a lot easier to shoot. I don't hunt with it much, because most of the deer around here are killed early in the morning or late in the afternoon. It is hard for my eyes to pick up the front site in low light. A silver front bead would help.
Paul,I saw one of the California Highway patrol 357 Rugers # 1s at the last gun show for $550.00, should I have bought it?
Michael
I am glad to see so much interest in 30-30s. The best I can do with open sites, bifocals and 125gr. Sierra flat nose hollow points at 100yds are 3-4 inch groups. My 30-30 is a Golden Centennial rifle that I got for my high school graduation present.( it came out the same year I graduated ) It is the only open sited rifle I have. I am thinking about putting a Wilson adjustable rear site and a beaded front site on before the next deer season. A friend of mine did that to his Buffalo Bill and it is a lot easier to shoot. I don't hunt with it much, because most of the deer around here are killed early in the morning or late in the afternoon. It is hard for my eyes to pick up the front site in low light. A silver front bead would help.
Paul,I saw one of the California Highway patrol 357 Rugers # 1s at the last gun show for $550.00, should I have bought it?
Michael
Grapeshot:
What you say about technique is interesting. I too was basically just letting the rifle rest in the notch of my front bag (not because I knew to do so, but because I'd seen my uncle shoot this way). I do think I had the bag a little bit further forward than you though.
Next time I shoot, as an experiment, I'll try varying amounts of pressure on the front and see how accuracy is affected.
What you say about technique is interesting. I too was basically just letting the rifle rest in the notch of my front bag (not because I knew to do so, but because I'd seen my uncle shoot this way). I do think I had the bag a little bit further forward than you though.
Next time I shoot, as an experiment, I'll try varying amounts of pressure on the front and see how accuracy is affected.
Shooting off my hands,my Model 94 puts them into a bit less than 3" at 100 yards with a peep sight. I would use the method mentioned here of resting the receiver on the bag for testing different loads, but I prefer to see how the rifle does when held.
A couple tips....
First, like any other rifle, the 30-30s do best with decent triggers. Mine runs 4lbs and is clean.The $25-50 spent is well worth it.
Second, if one relieves the wood from the forearm and also the top part of the bbl band so that there's no contact, it's kinda like freefloating the bbl.
Also, loosen up the screw in the magazine tube at the muzzle until the threads barely engage, and Blue Loctite it in place. This relieves any pressure and the bbl tends to vibrate more uniformly, thus better accuracy.
A couple tips....
First, like any other rifle, the 30-30s do best with decent triggers. Mine runs 4lbs and is clean.The $25-50 spent is well worth it.
Second, if one relieves the wood from the forearm and also the top part of the bbl band so that there's no contact, it's kinda like freefloating the bbl.
Also, loosen up the screw in the magazine tube at the muzzle until the threads barely engage, and Blue Loctite it in place. This relieves any pressure and the bbl tends to vibrate more uniformly, thus better accuracy.
I helped a buddy sight in a NIB Marlin 336 4 years ago. Simmon's 3-9 scope, weaver base & rings - about like Guyon's setup. I was surprised, with Remington 150gr & 170gr factory loads 1" groups at 100yds were the norm. We spent the afternoon plinking golf balls on the 100yd line. My 1970's vintage M336 is good for 1.5" - 2", and it seems obvious to me that the newer Marlin was a tighter and better built rifle with excellent attention to fit and finish. IMO Marlin is making the best rifles today that they've ever made. -- Kernel