I'm not having a problem only want to improve . Giving you start to finish , size and deprime using RCBS Carbide sizing die ,wet tumble , Lyman M expanding die , prime , charge , seat using Hornady sleeved seating die and taper crimp using the RCBS Carbide Crimp die . Was reading about the Lee factory crimp die , what's your feelings on the Lee to replace the RCBS ?
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Lee carbide factory crimp die 45acp
- Thread starter cw308
- Start date
If you can make loads that cycle reliably with out using it then why add it.
I load 380 auto, 9mm and was loading 45acp while just using the standard Lee Carbide 3- die sets until I purchased a 45acp pistol with a very tight chamber. No matter what I did I could not get them to cycle reliably. Would get failure to go into battery and once had a jam that was very difficult to extract after a FTF.
Finally after many tries doing different things and directions from folks here and other forums I was finally convinced by a mod on the CZ forum to try the Lee FCD which finally solved the problem completely. So now all my 45's go thru the FCD.
I load 380 auto, 9mm and was loading 45acp while just using the standard Lee Carbide 3- die sets until I purchased a 45acp pistol with a very tight chamber. No matter what I did I could not get them to cycle reliably. Would get failure to go into battery and once had a jam that was very difficult to extract after a FTF.
Finally after many tries doing different things and directions from folks here and other forums I was finally convinced by a mod on the CZ forum to try the Lee FCD which finally solved the problem completely. So now all my 45's go thru the FCD.
Was reading about the Lee factory crimp die , what's your feelings on the Lee to replace the RCBS ?
We all have our load technique. I use the Lee FCD for 45 ACP; but in addition to, rather than a replacement to my RCBS seat die.
For me, it's a three-step process (on a Dillon 550BL). I seat with an RCBS seat die; followed by another RCBS seat die to perform a sufficient crimp; followed by the Lee FCD to "re-crimp," as it were.
The FCD has a collar at its base that can "iron out" any case distortions that may occur - usually at the case mouth and/or bullet base. With most ammo going through the FDC there is no impingement with the collar, but some do (usually Federal brass, I've noticed) - maybe one in four. It tightens up the tolerances; and I would think that's a good thing.
Is it necessary? I don't know. But I like the idea of the finished ammo going through the collar as a final step to correct any O.D. anomalies.
I use the FCD for every caliber I load. They work even better with revolvers; applying the best roll crimp I've ever seen.
If you can make loads that cycle reliably with out using it then why add it.
And then there's that ^ too. If what you're doing works, why mess with it? I like the Lee FCD; but others don't.
The only die I would replace is the crimp die I crimp in a separate step so I would use the Lee factory crimp die to replace the RCBS crimp die . I have about 100 cases of MAXXTECH brass from a friend that doesn't reload , the brass is thicker then most , it doesn't seat fully in my Lyman case gage but does pass the plunk test and feeds fine in my 1911 wanted to give the Lee a try to see if it irons out the case to fit the gage .
PS
For 45acp the factory taper crimp die is carbide.
PS
For 45acp the factory taper crimp die is carbide.
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Hammerhead
New member
Why put training wheels on a bike that's not tipping over?
The carbide ring in the FCD die can only harm a good round by squeezing the bullet when there's no need to. The FCD will make a sloppy round chamber, but it will not heal whatever is ailing the round. If the bullet is tilted, the FCD does not straighten the bullet, it crushes the base. If you're using oversize lead bullets, it crushes the section of the bullet that is in the case. That doesn't help anything.
The carbide ring in the FCD die can only harm a good round by squeezing the bullet when there's no need to. The FCD will make a sloppy round chamber, but it will not heal whatever is ailing the round. If the bullet is tilted, the FCD does not straighten the bullet, it crushes the base. If you're using oversize lead bullets, it crushes the section of the bullet that is in the case. That doesn't help anything.
^^^^^Why put training wheels on a bike that's not tipping over?
The carbide ring in the FCD die can only harm a good round by squeezing the bullet when there's no need to. The FCD will make a sloppy round chamber, but it will not heal whatever is ailing the round. If the bullet is tilted, the FCD does not straighten the bullet, it crushes the base. If you're using oversize lead bullets, it crushes the section of the bullet that is in the case. That doesn't help anything.
Some people live in a fantasy world
I use the LFC die for every caliber I load. First started using one on .45acp. My M1911 has a very tight match chamber, barrel made by Kart. Without using the LFC die, I get an occasional failure to chamber. The LFC die "irons out" any bulges in the brass making feeding much better. Also, I use the LFC die out of necessity for a target pistol in .32 S&W wadcutter. Similar reason as the .45acp. If your pistol has a loose or generous chamber, you may not need the LFC die.
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I have always received very good advice from everyone in this , I use to occasionally have a bulged case from not setting the bullet square on the flared case and thankfully from help from people on this forum told me about the Lyman M expander die , worked perfect also with the use of the Hornady Sleeved Seating Die my rounds are trouble free . This Lee Factory Crimp Die is something I see worth while to test , I'm using different brands of brass with the same bullet , a 230 gr FMJ from PrecisionDelta .. I'm ordering the die Monday and will let you know what I think . Thanks Again for your input . Nothing wrong with trying something .
Chris
Chris
Nothing wrong with trying something .
You are 100% correct.
Just keep in mind that using mixed brass, the thickness at the mouth of the cases can and do vary somewhat. That will effect your results. I will add that I had problems a few years ago in this regard.
The most I had to worry about was some differences in Federal brass as they were so much thinner that the bullet had almost no hold.
I'm sure I could make one of these "Sloppy Round" chamber by sending this barrel out and having the chamber worked on but why? There is nothing wrong with the barrel. It fires new, never fired ammunition very well. It will chamber sized empty cases all day long. I've gone as far as loading plated bullets and then crimping them until there is a roll crimp produced and they still will not reliably chamber.
Now I know this die is doing something but exactly what it is I do not know as when I measure them I find no changes only that now they chamber every time in this pistol. These exact same loads when done with the seating/crimp die all chamber and function in every other gun I've tried them in.
So I will continue to use the FCD for the 45acp and not think twice. What I won't do is send out a gun for work that doesn't need it when I can fix the problem with a $25.00 die.
Not trying to convince anyone that they Need this tool only that it is there and has a place. No one is saying that if you don't like it or trust it that you need to use it.
Now I know this die is doing something but exactly what it is I do not know as when I measure them I find no changes only that now they chamber every time in this pistol. These exact same loads when done with the seating/crimp die all chamber and function in every other gun I've tried them in.
So I will continue to use the FCD for the 45acp and not think twice. What I won't do is send out a gun for work that doesn't need it when I can fix the problem with a $25.00 die.
Not trying to convince anyone that they Need this tool only that it is there and has a place. No one is saying that if you don't like it or trust it that you need to use it.
Thanks Chris, Yes I did fight the recommendation to use the die but after a month of working on it I was at wits end and had to do something. This gun shoots superbly and there is nothing wrong with the gun and nothing wrong with my handloads. Combine the 2 together and then there is a problem. The Lee die fixed that. Exactly how it fixed it I cannot explain because I cannot find any altered measurements. I don't have a fixture and a dial indicator to measure runout.
Am using the LFC in 9mm, SW .40 and 45 acp. It can straighten out off kilter loads, sizes down further on the case base than the other unmodifed sizing dies owned and is less sensitive to case length. It will resize larger diameter lead bullets, like in the 45 LC and 44 special.
And they're inexpensive to try.
Never even knew RCBS had a factory carbide crimp die, but not paying attention as much as i used to.
And they're inexpensive to try.
Never even knew RCBS had a factory carbide crimp die, but not paying attention as much as i used to.
I use the Lee FCD with all my hand gun loads 9mm, 38/357 & 45acp . I loaded rifle for several years before I started loading handgun cartridges . The first one I tried was 45acp . I was told that mixed headstamps in 45 is no big deal so that's what I started with .
Since I had been loading rifle cartridges before that to a very high tolerance . I tried loading the 45acp the same way . One of the first things I noticed was how the thinker walled brass hung up in that collar of my FCD way more then the thin walled cases . Mixed brass also resulted in very inconsistent crimp tension . If I had the die set to to give a light to medium crimp on the thick walled cases , I could barely feel it crimp the thin walled cases . Of course the opposite as well if set to crimp the thin walled cases correct it really bit down on the thicker walled cases .
This was freaking me out . I was so used to loading perfect match grade rifle loads . The inconsistencies I was getting with the mixed 45 brass ad me pulling my hair out . I had to finally at least separate the brass by thick and thin walled cases and that just for the cases I don't have enough to separate by head stamp ( 500+ )
My point to that is 1) I think my 45acp FCD carbide ring is a tad small because my 9mm almost never even touch that ring and I've never had a 357 touch the ring . 2) If you're going to load some extra thick brass the Lee FCD should swage them down no problem . Keep in mind that it's possible to swage them down to much to where you compress the lead of the bullet which will stay that new diameter . While the case actually springs back a little resulting in less bullet hold then you had before running it through the crimp die .
What brand case are you talking about that are thinker ? I've found Win , Fed , CBC , Nosler to be on the thicker side and PMC , agillia , PPU to be on the thinner side . There's more on both ends but those seem to be the most noticeable to me when I'm loading them .
Since I had been loading rifle cartridges before that to a very high tolerance . I tried loading the 45acp the same way . One of the first things I noticed was how the thinker walled brass hung up in that collar of my FCD way more then the thin walled cases . Mixed brass also resulted in very inconsistent crimp tension . If I had the die set to to give a light to medium crimp on the thick walled cases , I could barely feel it crimp the thin walled cases . Of course the opposite as well if set to crimp the thin walled cases correct it really bit down on the thicker walled cases .
This was freaking me out . I was so used to loading perfect match grade rifle loads . The inconsistencies I was getting with the mixed 45 brass ad me pulling my hair out . I had to finally at least separate the brass by thick and thin walled cases and that just for the cases I don't have enough to separate by head stamp ( 500+ )
My point to that is 1) I think my 45acp FCD carbide ring is a tad small because my 9mm almost never even touch that ring and I've never had a 357 touch the ring . 2) If you're going to load some extra thick brass the Lee FCD should swage them down no problem . Keep in mind that it's possible to swage them down to much to where you compress the lead of the bullet which will stay that new diameter . While the case actually springs back a little resulting in less bullet hold then you had before running it through the crimp die .
What brand case are you talking about that are thinker ? I've found Win , Fed , CBC , Nosler to be on the thicker side and PMC , agillia , PPU to be on the thinner side . There's more on both ends but those seem to be the most noticeable to me when I'm loading them .
Metal god
First , Happy & Healthy New Year to you and your family . We went down that same road , I to mainly reloaded for Precision rifle shooting so when I started with 45 ACP I was trimming brass to the same length already new about thicker because in 308 the brass I was using was Rem. Win. FC , HSM none of the higher end brass . The reason the Lee FCD interested me was do to the differences in the brass . I came across a brass ( MAXXTECH ) is the thickest brass , will not fully seat in the case gage but passes the plunk test . Didn't get the die yet it's ordered , when I get the die I'll try it on the thick brass first . Will separate headstamps when crimping . Thanks for answering my post . Good health for the new year .
PS Do you really shoot that good.
Chris
First , Happy & Healthy New Year to you and your family . We went down that same road , I to mainly reloaded for Precision rifle shooting so when I started with 45 ACP I was trimming brass to the same length already new about thicker because in 308 the brass I was using was Rem. Win. FC , HSM none of the higher end brass . The reason the Lee FCD interested me was do to the differences in the brass . I came across a brass ( MAXXTECH ) is the thickest brass , will not fully seat in the case gage but passes the plunk test . Didn't get the die yet it's ordered , when I get the die I'll try it on the thick brass first . Will separate headstamps when crimping . Thanks for answering my post . Good health for the new year .
PS Do you really shoot that good.
Chris