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Lee auto drum inconsistent
- Thread starter daytooday
- Start date
Try tearing it down and checking the surface of the plastic, both the drum surface and the journal surface, for scoring or scratch marks. If you find and feel nothing on either surface, wipe both with graphite powder and get the drum as tight as will still operate and see if that improves the situation.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
Static electricity? Following a suggestion I picked up somewhere several years ago, I put an anti-static dryer sheet over the top of my plastic powder reservoirs before I pop on the lid.
When I'm doing small batches of something using the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, which is a bench-mounted, drum type dispenser, I also give it a few light taps each time I throw the lever, in the hope of shaking loose anything that might be clinging or bridging. I don't know if al that is necessary, but I don't see variations of more than about .05 grain plus or minus from what I'm set for.
That's with Winchester 231. I haven't run any other powder through that measure.
When I'm doing small batches of something using the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, which is a bench-mounted, drum type dispenser, I also give it a few light taps each time I throw the lever, in the hope of shaking loose anything that might be clinging or bridging. I don't know if al that is necessary, but I don't see variations of more than about .05 grain plus or minus from what I'm set for.
That's with Winchester 231. I haven't run any other powder through that measure.
TruthTellers
New member
Flake powders work best with the Auto Drum. If you want to use a fine grain powder, you're best off using the Lee Auto Disk. You'll still have some leakage with that measure, but the throws will be accurate.
No pun intended, but I was having a lot of trouble with Accurate #9 in the Lee PPM and Auto Drum, tried the Auto Disk as it works completely differently than any other powder measure I know of and every throw was within .1gr.
No pun intended, but I was having a lot of trouble with Accurate #9 in the Lee PPM and Auto Drum, tried the Auto Disk as it works completely differently than any other powder measure I know of and every throw was within .1gr.
jetinteriorguy
New member
Yup, fine powders are tough with the Auto Drum. If you’ve tightened it enough not to leak it’s probably too tight to cycle properly and may be binding up. The best I could do with mine was to take some fast cut polishing compound for automotive finishes and lap the drum by hand and then be very careful how you tighten it down. You may still get some leakage but it will be minimal. I also coat all the surfaces that make contact with the powder by spraying them down with graphite in an aerosol can.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
I don't remember where I saw it, but I have read other recommendations for lapping in the drum on this powder measure. It's certainly worth a try.jetinteriorguy said:The best I could do with mine was to take some fast cut polishing compound for automotive finishes and lap the drum by hand and then be very careful how you tighten it down.
Renquestor
New member
I have the Perfect Powder Measure and used valve lapping compound on it. It allowed me to crank the measure down without binding, smoothed operation, and greatly reduced the leakage when using ball powders.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have been using an Auto Drum measure for 3 years now and using it with Accurate #2, #5, Ramshot Silhouette and now TAC. All very fine ball powders and when finished with a reloading session I have more powder on the bench and press from spillage than from leakage. I keep a couple small brushes on the bench, one a 1" paint brush and the other a 1/4" parts wash brush.
After I received my Drum measure it worked for a while and then broke, jammed up, wouldn't return. This happened twice and both times I sent it back. The last time it came back with drums that looked like they had been turned on a lathe, they were not shiny. It hasn't leaked since.
I also believe the instructions warn against over tightening the drum. Can't say for certain because I haven't looked at them in 3 years.
After I received my Drum measure it worked for a while and then broke, jammed up, wouldn't return. This happened twice and both times I sent it back. The last time it came back with drums that looked like they had been turned on a lathe, they were not shiny. It hasn't leaked since.
I also believe the instructions warn against over tightening the drum. Can't say for certain because I haven't looked at them in 3 years.
I wouldn't want the sharp silicon carbide grains to embed in the drum and journal plastic, where it could keep cutting. Maybe an aluminum oxide or other more rounded grain compound would work out. I have not tried lapping the plastic, so I can't tell you, but a plastic buffing compound might not be out of line.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
Jewelers' rouge?Unclenick said:I wouldn't want the sharp silicon carbide grains to embed in the drum and journal plastic, where it could keep cutting. Maybe an aluminum oxide or other more rounded grain compound would work out. I have not tried lapping the plastic, so I can't tell you, but a plastic buffing compound might not be out of line.
Automotive polishing compound? Or maybe rubbing compound followed by polishing compound?
First, did you clean it properly? I use my old Hornady cleaner and dry lube spray on my powder measures (air dry, don't wipe off). Hoppers get washed with a rag of warm soapy water and allowed to air dry (don't wipe off).
Next, you need to cycle a hopper full of graphitized powder (or even simply graphite powder) through the measure to get parts properly coated.
When you add powder to the hopper, the powder must settle. This can be done by gently shaking the measure for several seconds. Then, throw at least ten charges (and return them to hopper) before you ever start to weigh charges.
With a bench-mounted measure, you rotate the handle and Tap-Tap at each end of the handle throw to help keep the powder settled and knock powder clear of metering assembly.
As Lee says: Always make an uninterrupted up and down stroke when expanding or charging the case. If you become distracted and reverse direction, a double charge could result.
With a press-mounted measure, you may have to tap/tap the measure manually every so often (say with a handle of a screwdriver or such).
Some people find that an aquarium pump or vibrator works wonders. Some people find a baffle works wonders. Neither has worked well for me, but my measures work very well without them.
Always verify the appropriate drum/metering assembly is installed—this happens with other measures that have a couple of metering assemblies
For rifle cartridges: Select proper Charging Die
Allow 1 second per cc for charging and dispensing the powder charge.
Check charge weight every 10-25 rounds until you are confident the measure is consistent.
With a progressive press, use a powder check die that will freeze the press. A powder cop die is the easiest thing NOT to look at. I like the RCBS Lock-Out die.
PS: my bench-mounted PPM is the most consistent. My Hornady L-N-L and Lee Auto-Drums are next. My Dillon measures are fine, but not quite as consistent. ANY of them are more than adequate.
Next, you need to cycle a hopper full of graphitized powder (or even simply graphite powder) through the measure to get parts properly coated.
When you add powder to the hopper, the powder must settle. This can be done by gently shaking the measure for several seconds. Then, throw at least ten charges (and return them to hopper) before you ever start to weigh charges.
With a bench-mounted measure, you rotate the handle and Tap-Tap at each end of the handle throw to help keep the powder settled and knock powder clear of metering assembly.
As Lee says: Always make an uninterrupted up and down stroke when expanding or charging the case. If you become distracted and reverse direction, a double charge could result.
With a press-mounted measure, you may have to tap/tap the measure manually every so often (say with a handle of a screwdriver or such).
Some people find that an aquarium pump or vibrator works wonders. Some people find a baffle works wonders. Neither has worked well for me, but my measures work very well without them.
Always verify the appropriate drum/metering assembly is installed—this happens with other measures that have a couple of metering assemblies
For rifle cartridges: Select proper Charging Die
Allow 1 second per cc for charging and dispensing the powder charge.
Check charge weight every 10-25 rounds until you are confident the measure is consistent.
With a progressive press, use a powder check die that will freeze the press. A powder cop die is the easiest thing NOT to look at. I like the RCBS Lock-Out die.
PS: my bench-mounted PPM is the most consistent. My Hornady L-N-L and Lee Auto-Drums are next. My Dillon measures are fine, but not quite as consistent. ANY of them are more than adequate.