Lee 45 Conical Mold

D

deerslayer303

New member
Hey Guys,
In my reading somewhere in my search for the end of the internet a gentleman stated his favorite Lee mold for the 44 caliber revolver. Instead of saving the link like a bone head I moved on. Now thinking back on it I want the info. He said its a .45x mold from Lee but the bullet cast from it (using pure lead I would assume) is not much if at all higher than the Round ball. He stated because of this the accuracy was very good. Would any of you know about what mold that would be?
 
I would guess you are speaking of the 160 grn RF bullet for the .45 Colt. But I don't know how easily that would load in a cap and ball cylinder as the base isn't stepped, and a Pietta chamber is typically about .446" and I think Uberti's run about .450".

I had Accurate Molds make me a 170 grn WFN bullet that's only .400" long and weighs 170 grns. It does well out go my Pietta Remington 1858 and ROA. I created this design as I had read of someone using a bullet that was stated to be about the length of a ball and taking up no more powder.

The bullet I designed that's the length of a ball weighs 195 grns with the same WFN.
 
lee mould

The most common mold from Lee for the 44 cap and ball revolvers is the
45-200 But many times the cast bullet will be around 185 to 190 gr.

The old style was straight sides and flat bottom.
The newer one supposedly has a rebated base and tapered sides,
I have the old style but not the new.

Web link to the bullet
http://leeprecision.com/mold-d-c-450-200-1r.html

I had another company design the ones I use. they are classed as 190 and 195 weight semi wad cutter
I don't like the Lee aluminum mould when casting a large quantity.
 
Thanks for the info guys. DD4lifeusmc, why do you not like the aluminum mold for high volume casting? I have never cast with any other mold but the Lee. I do have to keep an eye on how hot the mold gets or they will frost up big time. Doesn't take me long though to have a small coffee can full of them. I would like to try an Lyman mold but they would cut to far into my me money gun buying mason jar. :D
 
mould

Thanks for the info guys. DD4lifeusmc, why do you not like the aluminum mold for high volume casting? I have never cast with any other mold but the Lee. I do have to keep an eye on how hot the mold gets or they will frost up big time. Doesn't take me long though to have a small coffee can full of them. I would like to try an Lyman mold but they would cut to far into my me money gun buying mason jar.
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IMHO but not everybody elses.
the aluminum is too soft and galls easily.
The old style alignment pins really sucked.
The newer ones are better
The handles are too thin and flimzy on the standard two cavity moulds.
They do have heavier handles on the 4 and 6 cavity moulds.
Adter a few thousand casts Start getting perfect alignment problems and will get a "flashing" across base of bullet between the mould and sprue plate.
Not always but enough to be troublesome.
I much prefer a good steel mould.
After I designed my two 190 and 195 gr ones, Rodwha tried them, then he went to same company and had his designed.

Lees standard over counter 2 cavity 45-200 runs about $25
Lyman comparable is $90 plus interchangeable handles
Accurate is $190 plus use Lees big handles ($20).
Moose Mould about $190 also

I normally cast a couple 1000 a month of different calibers
 
I understand what you mean, I've had to put some work into my Lee RB molds. Like lapping the cavity because of rough machining marks and sanding and polishing the underside of the sprue plate. To keep it from galling uo the top of the mold. I'll have to get me a Lyman RB mold. I cast way more RB than anything else.
 
@ Salvadore bullet

It varies from maker to maker, year to year and model to model.
I don't have an 1860.
As a trial you would have to try it.
if need be remove the cylinder for the first few and see how you like the bullet.
Then if you like it and want to keep shooting it, use a dremel to slightly open up the loading area a tad. Then re blue it.
My 190 is the shortest of the three (45-195s and lee 45-200).
I tried to give it dimensions that would be easy to load even in the snugger cylinders, but yet stay tight in the ROA.
I'd be willing to give you a few if you want, just pay the postage. Roughly $5 in the lower 48. for 10 or 12

if so just pm me for mailing info
 
You're a saint DD, thanks for the offer. Fortunately my only winter based activity is shoveling snow from my driveway. Being from Wyoming you probably know that if you have no life, casting and reloading takes up most of my time. Right now I'll be casting for my 9MMs and after that I'll start casting stick on WWs ingots into the Lee conicles. My new Uberti '58 Navy seems to load the Lee 36 conicals without much trouble, so hoping for the best.
 
conicals

I cast a half dozen or so different calibers for black powder.
I try to keep a 1000 or so each on hand and a stockpile of lead.
Be aware. not all wheel weight is lead / tin alloy anymore. Even the stickons.
Some are now zinc and iron and don't melt.

Along with that I do some simple leather work, pouches and some modern style holsters for our C&B revolvers, key fobs with military stamping .
Just odds and ends.
I try to go to the gun shows and rendezvous arounf here.
So I try to stay busy.

We got got about 1" of snow last night. but good sun today soit may melt enough to I can ride the scoot to town tomorrow for Thanksgiving dinner.
 
I know what you mean DD, I've gotten pretty good at recognizing ferrous and zinc from lead and clipon lead alloys. I still have a 22lb bar of lino and a pure lead 27lb ingot I picked up in the late seventies. and more than 300lbs of wheel weights.
 
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