Leading problem in cylinder. I need a good solvent.

S.F.S

New member
I have a .357 GP100 and I was shooting some 38's out of it, which was wadcutters and the lead in the cylinders really caked in there. I have cleaned most of it out with Hoppe's and a Lead Remover cloth (Its a blued gun so I had to go real easy with it) but there is still some in there and if I shoot any type of .38's out of it I cant get any .357's in the cylinder. I was able to remove most of it from the cylinders but not all of it. The barrel and frame I was able to clean up

Could someone please recommend me a good lead cleaning solvent?


Scott
 
I sure can't recommend a solvent but I will tell you what has worked for me. Get a couple of .375 rifle bronze bore brushes and a bottle of any kind of solvent you favor. Turn your radio on to your favorite station and get scrubbing. Depending on how bad the fouling is and I've seen it real bad on used guns on occasion, you're going to be at it a while. Just resolve to yourself that you are going to win. This can be frustating but it has to be done as you have observed if you want to chamber the longer magnum cartridges. Good luck.
 
A Lewis lead remover will do the job and also remove lead from the forcing cone. Go to www.brownells.com for them.

You can also use the old trick of putting a bronze brush on a short cleaning rod (like a secion of the GI M10 cleaning rod) and chuck same into a drill or drill press. Run the rotating brush into the chambers. Use it carefully and you can clean the cylinder easily without the sweat. Of course, you can also listen to the radio if the drill doesn't make too much static.

I like G96 Gun Treatment for a general cleaner, but it won't dissolve lead.

Jim
 
I second the Lewis Lead Remover. Hoppes currently makes them in several calibers. They are great. And inexpensive. And fast.
 
Dick,
Thats how I got a good percentage of the lead out is with one of those cloths, but I have to be carefull since its a blued firearm.

Scott
 
I sometimes use a green scotchbrite pad. Cut it into the right sized square and work away. A Dremel helps, but is not necessary.
 
the brush in the drill is what I use on our Rugers for CAS shooting, but also Molly Bullets go a LONG way to help avoid leading...
 
I've tried all the cleaners and arrived at the following: I use a NYLON bore brush on a 3" rod put in my low-speed cordless drill. I dip the bore brush in to chrome polish (automotive) put it into the cylinder and start polishing. You can usually have the tube dead clean in less than a minute (depends how filthy it is). For really heavy lead, use a jag spear and swab with J+B Bore Cleaner (Brownells) and plunge by hand. If you don't let it build up, the drill/polish method works fine. BTW- I used to buy the brass brushes by the 3-dozen case because they fell apart so fast... I still have about 15 somewhere in my closet (don't need them anymore).
 
I was number two on 444's thread list of leading problems;)

Get the Lewis lead remover. Still sit and shake my head at how much time I've wasted "scrubbing away" before getting it.
 
I forget who first mentioned this on TFL but I tried it and it works well without leaving scratches that bronze does in softer steel.

From a copper pot scrubber pad a piece about two inches wide and three long cut out and wrapped around a nylon brush. Just twirling it in the cylinders and pumping it back and forth in the barrel will remove lots of lead.
 
Take 1 fired .357 Magnum case.
Push fired case into each chamber.
See crud get scraped by case mouth.
Sit back, drink beer and watch others scrub.
 
I also would recommend the Lewis Lead Remover. It cleans your bore your cylinder, also the forcing cone. In just a couple minutes

Tony

Here is a picture of the lewis.


TP12531.jpg



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Update

Thanks everyone for your responses.
I went ahead and used the drill trick with a cleaning rod I cut down and a .44 brass brush on the end the cylinder cleaned up well, it took awhile.
I first started at a real slow speed but it didnt work so I had to go at a higher speed. I first started to use a Hoppe's stainless steel tornado brush of the proper size with no prevail. But the oversize brush worked:)
Thanks Again.

Jim or Bountyh

P.S.-Is it safe on the cylinder to use a drill all the time?
 
RAE has a great point. Even if you gonna clean it up all the way, still saves a bunch of time to shove empty mag brass in. Gets most of the crud out in a second.

Sam
 
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