I was at the range earlier today and bought some Semi-wadcutter (which I have never used before) reloads from them to shoot out of my .357 GP100. I came in this evening to clean the revolver up with some Hoppe's #9 which I have used in the past. And to my suprise and ANGER the bluing is gone off the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. Did the lead eat away at it or what? The gun sat for about 8 hrs before I cleaned it, which I have done before. Now I am wondering if the lead ate away at it in that time frame. Please help here guys...
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Lead Semi-Wadcutter removing Bluing?
- Thread starter S.F.S
- Start date
I think your looking at lead melted on blued steel?use a
brush with some more Hoppes #9 and let it sit. its a illusion, some lead alloys tend to have more tin and are harder to remove. scared me a few times. if your blueing is really GONE then I'd say some corrisive primers were used
in reloads, just a thought, hope its just needs more cleaning.
brush with some more Hoppes #9 and let it sit. its a illusion, some lead alloys tend to have more tin and are harder to remove. scared me a few times. if your blueing is really GONE then I'd say some corrisive primers were used
in reloads, just a thought, hope its just needs more cleaning.
Hey Zot,
What type of brushes would I need? Im using an oid toothbrush at the present time and that is not cutting it, it always did before but I have never used this type of ammo either I have always used either jacketed or soft point never a lead semi-wadcutter..
Also why is the wadcutter so much dirtier than the soft points?
I would appreciate any help you can give me...
Scott
What type of brushes would I need? Im using an oid toothbrush at the present time and that is not cutting it, it always did before but I have never used this type of ammo either I have always used either jacketed or soft point never a lead semi-wadcutter..
Also why is the wadcutter so much dirtier than the soft points?
I would appreciate any help you can give me...
Scott
Dfariswheel
New member
I second Zot, you're seeing a thin "flash" plating of lead deposited on the cylinder. DON'T use a lead removal cloth. These are great for stainless, but really will remove the blue. Use a brass tooth-type brush and bore solvent to remove.
Unless it builds up and interferes with cylinder rotation, you can just leave it.
Unless it builds up and interferes with cylinder rotation, you can just leave it.
Dfariswheel
New member
A couple of years ago, somebody was selling a liguid that was supossed to clean the cylinder face. I can't remember if it was only for stainlees, and I haven't seen it for a while.
Hey guys thanks for you replys, I went and bought a bronze tooth style brush and will clean her up tomorrow and will let you know what happens.
Why are the semi-wadcutter so much dirtier than then soft points?
It left so much lead in my barrel I had to use a my .40 cal. bronze bore brush to clean it, the .357 bore brush was just not cutting through the lead in the barrel or the cylinders.
Thanks
Scott
Why are the semi-wadcutter so much dirtier than then soft points?
It left so much lead in my barrel I had to use a my .40 cal. bronze bore brush to clean it, the .357 bore brush was just not cutting through the lead in the barrel or the cylinders.
Thanks
Scott
Dfariswheel
New member
Since wadcutters have a square shoulder, they tend to shed lead worse than the round shoulderless bullets.
To make it easy to clean the lead out of the barrel and forcing cone, buy a Lewis remover kit.
To make it easy to clean the lead out of the barrel and forcing cone, buy a Lewis remover kit.