Lead removing cloth for blued guns

AID_Admin

New member
Hello, another cleaning question (opening for a discussion) here. I have been using Kleen Bore Lead Away cloth for cleaning my Model 66 for a while. I do not use this cloth with every cleaning however. Instead I use it once in every 3 or 4 cleanings with Hoppe's 9 to bring my cylinder, bore and forcing cone to almost brand new look. I am very happy with this product, however... I understand that I can not use it on blued guns as it may/ will damage the finish.

So, is there a similar product that I can use on blued guns? Ideally on a form of a cloth. While Hoppe's 9 does a fine job it seems to leave some stuff behind. Thanks.
 
I've been using Flitz on the cylinder face, forcing cone and bore with total satisfaction. I knock the big stuff off with Shooters' Choice, followed by a small amount of Flitz on a brush. Sure beats the cloth for me, and safe on the blue. Cleans it off way faster, too.
 
I understand that I can not use it on blued guns as it may/ will damage the finish.

It will damage a blued finish but, as you know, it's great for s/s. Judicious application of Flitz, as Strafer Gott noted, will not harm bluing-but use it with care (don't rub too hard).
 
I have always assumed that with a blued revolver you pretty much have to live with some carbon on the front face of the cylinder. It is generally almost impossible to see and does not affect functionality. I have assumed that even a brass brush with Hoppes 9 applied to a blued cylinder face would eventually degrade the bluing. Comments?

Does Fitz remove the crud from the cylinder face without too much pressure applied? I have not tried this.
 
What doesn't come off with Hoppes #9 ... stays. Even on my SS guns. I have used a bit of steel wool to remove stubborn deposits on the cylinder sides and frame with no detrimental affects.
 
You can also use a carbon removal chemical like Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
Note that excessive soaking time or extended use can damage bluing, and even this will not totally remove the stains from the cylinder.

Since these carbon stains are more or less IN the metal, it's not possible to remove all traces, and attempting to do so will damage the bluing.
 
I use an old toothbrush with the Flitz, so I'm not bearing down that much. I wouldn't use a brass brush, but I have found 4x steel wool to be useful for a close shave if the corruption is proud.
 
Back
Top