Lead bullets in 9mm: advice needed

P

pathdoc

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These are commercially bought bullets, Speer 9mm LRN, which is why I'm not putting this in the casting section.

I bought a box of these to try them out and see whether my M&P9 will digest them well, but only after they came in did I slap my forehead and realise I had forgotten to buy lube. My impulse is to go with the Lee liquid alox shake-coating method, and to seat so that the cannelure is just inside the case and doesn't try to eat the case mouth when I apply a taper crimp.

Am I on the right track?
 
From the Speer website:
"All Speer lead bullets feature our hi-tech, multi-layer lube system. This great lube is, simply stated, the best thing in lead bullets. It stays with the bullet instead of burning off, virtually eliminating the gas cutting that causes most leading problems. It won’t melt off in storage or transport, and is clean and dry to the touch. For target shooting or plinking,"
 
I shoot lead in semi-autos with no problem. I have no experience with speer LRN projectiles so I don't know if they're pre-lubed, but g willikers answered that.

If speer says that they are lubed I wouldn't add anything else. Bullet lube is notorious for caking up in the seating die, eventually leading to a seating depth that is too deep and possible pressure issues if you don't keep an eye on it.
 
I have the SD9VE and started to shoot self cast lead 124 grain TL bullets only.

If it has an full supported chamber and normal rifling it will work flawlessly.
The M&P is S&W as well so the slide and Barrel should be the same/similar.

You can lube with grease or wax. That works all and leading stays within normal.
Yes the grease can clogg up the seating/crimping die. I did not have my Hornady 9mm dies clogged but my RCBS 38spl/357 mag seating die is so clogged from shaved off lead (from Wadcutters) so it does not let itself anymore adjusting (seating depth). So I am forced to use Wadcutters only since the last die does not adjust anymore.
 
You can see what they put on their web site, or for the price of a phone call, you can talk to somebody at Speer.

If you don't trust their answer about their bullets, I don't know what to tell ya...

I haven't bought any Speer lead bullets in ages (decades, actually) but back when I did (.38cal) they had a "dry film" type lube that worked just fine.

Not perfectly "dry" as I recall, but dry compared to the traditional bullet lube (less messy & sticky). I would expect they have improved it over time.

To remove all doubt, call Speer, and ask.
 
I suspect your Speer bullets are lubed; it just isn't the typical wax lubricant in the lube grooves. They tend to have a black "baked on" coating whereas Hornady uses a powdery lubricant.
Another option is coated bullets. These are much cleaner to handle (virtually no direct contact with lead or sticky lubricants). Many suppliers offer these today.
I have the older style lubri-sizer, so I stick with the conventional wax lubing method for the time being.
Most of my coated rifle bullets I buy, since the low cost doesn't make it worth even firing up the Coleman stove.


Lee 356-120TC (conventional lube):
 
Speer swaged bullets use a lube coating and has for at least 10 years, just like so many of the NEW coated bullets. It doesn't need any more lube.
Lead bullet would be a shiny silver/blue color (and, even then, ALL commercial lead bullets are lubed unless YOU expressly ordered them as-cast and unlubed).
They can be fired as hot as your 9x19 can safely go.
I use swaged bullets from Hornady for MAJOR loads in my .38 Super and get no leading, and Speer bullets are coated, rather than just having a very light wax emulsion lube.
Hornady uses a wax emulsion on their swaged bullets and then they dust the bullets with micro-ground mica so they don't stick together.
My question is: if you weren't sure, why not call Speer first?
They would be more than happy to talk to you about their bullets. You can also go get a Speer manual and get their loads for their bullets.
 
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