Lead away cloth on stainless
- Thread starter Noban
- Start date
What lettering are you talking about? When I carried a 66, I used Lead Away cloths all the time and never had any of the factory markings removed. They were stamped into the metal. I filled in the markings with Testors metal model paint for a little contrast and the lead removal cloths would ,sometimes, remove the paint.
Dfariswheel
New member
I'm not sure what your gun has, but there are two types of markings besides the usual rolled on "stamped" marks.
Some guns have lazer engraved markings, which are "burned" into the metal with a lazer. These will not be damaged by a lead-away cloth.
A second type is applied by electro-etching. These are applied by using a decal and an electro-etching device. The marks are usually heavy blackened letters or logo's. The black may be removed by the lead-away, and since the etching is very shallow, the marks may be difficult to see.
You see this kind of marking process on many steel items from knives to hammers. Look around for something with a marking and try the cloth on it.
Some guns have lazer engraved markings, which are "burned" into the metal with a lazer. These will not be damaged by a lead-away cloth.
A second type is applied by electro-etching. These are applied by using a decal and an electro-etching device. The marks are usually heavy blackened letters or logo's. The black may be removed by the lead-away, and since the etching is very shallow, the marks may be difficult to see.
You see this kind of marking process on many steel items from knives to hammers. Look around for something with a marking and try the cloth on it.
colored lettering inset into etched guns are usually rubbed-in by use of a lacquer pencil. It's like a crayon.
The area is rubbed with the pencil, color fills the etched lettering, proofmark, logo area, and any excess on the outside can be wiped-off with an alcohol pad. The lacquer is supposed to harden and stay, but modern solvents will take it right off. Your lead-away cloth will do so.
For touch-ups, just buy some from Brownells for ~ $2.00,
LAQCUER-STIK stock no#517-100-002
The area is rubbed with the pencil, color fills the etched lettering, proofmark, logo area, and any excess on the outside can be wiped-off with an alcohol pad. The lacquer is supposed to harden and stay, but modern solvents will take it right off. Your lead-away cloth will do so.
For touch-ups, just buy some from Brownells for ~ $2.00,
LAQCUER-STIK stock no#517-100-002
AlonzoMosely
New member
TBAUS, this may be a dumb question, but what exactly do you do with the lead away cloth to get the lead off the cylinder face and forcing cone? When I use it on the cylinder face, I can get rid of most of it, but not all of it. On the forcing cone, how do you get the patch in there, and in the nooks and crannies where the outside of the forcing cone meets the frame?
While Wipeaway doesn't harm stainless steel, apply it to the cylinder face, inside of the topstrap, even the barrel. No need to wipe down the area around the logo or grips. As for the etched areas, it won't hurt it. However, it's not cost effective to use Wipe Away where Hoppe's and a toothbrush will work.