Lapping Rings???

P

Point Blank

New member
My scope walked 2" backwards today.I used blue locktite on the top set of rings,but not on the two that clamp to base,do i locktite these too??The top screws were still secure but scope still traveled backwards.I dont want to overtighten and ruin the scope.Do you put anything on your rings to help grab scope so it doesnt move??Thanks..:confused:
 
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First off your problem has nothing to do with lapping the rings. Did the scope move in the rings or did the whole set of rings move in the mount? What kind of rings and mount do you have? From what you've said it seems like a weaver style where the rings clamp on the base. Do the rings have a handle or a nut? Also if it is a weaver style then it shouldn't move because of the cross bar under the rings. Need some more info before I can help.
 
It moved in the rings (backwards).The base was on rifle "Savage Package Deal" and the rings were $20 Weavers from Wal- Mart.Yes,they clamp on base,and they have the nut.The mounts didnt move,although the front nut was loose (not on base),and i had both tightened very tight.The two screws on top of each ring were still tight as i put locktite on the threads.I felt they were snug enough to hold scope in place,plus i didnt want to dent scope by overtightening the screws.
 
PB,

Don't locktite any screws but the ones that hold the bases to the receiver. Its neither necessary or desirable.

If you're using the old style Weavers, that sort of wrap around the top with two screws on the side, I suggest you toss them and replace them with either Millett or Burris Signature Z-rings, either of which will fit your Weaver mount, and will provide much better support when tightened.

If you must have the Weaver rings, try putting a dusting of powdered rosin or VERY fine abrasive on the bottom ring, where it meets the scope.

WTF are you shooting, anyway? Only scope that ever slipped on me was on my .338, cured it with the Burris. :D

Hope this helps!

Tom
 
I lap my rings but it's not for holding the scope in place. Lapping rings provide a true scope surface contact.

Using locktite on the screws for the base is great but not recommended for the other screws on your rings.
 
Do you have a torque wrench that's set up for inch/pounds? If so then torque the ring nuts that connect it to the base to 65 in/lbs. Are the ring screws actually screws or hex nuts? If they are hex nuts torque them to 15-20 in/lbs. If they are screws then tighten them the best you can without any locktite. Try to shoot it again. If it slips again then I would say get another set of rings because those seem to be trouble. Most people don't realize that the rings and mount are just as important as the scope. You can put a $1000 scope ina $20 set of rings and if it moves it aint worth squat. I'm not saying you did this because I understand it was a package but I just wanted to put across that it is important to have good rings and mounts. Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys....i will give them one more try before i give them to my wife as earrings...she would love them if i painted them gold..heheheh.:p
 
Be careful about torquing just any ring's mounting screws to 65 inch pounds. Many will break. The only ones I have seen with the manufacturer recommending 65 inch pounds are tactical rings like my Badger Ordnance, or like Leupold Mk4.
 
My bad. I should have mentioned that but I don't usually think about it because the Badgers and Mark 4s are usually what I use and deal with.
 
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