Lapping Leupold Rings?

M

Mel Trog

Inactive
Hello, Everyone!


After doing some reading I came across the how-and-why of lapping rings. The impression I have is that "lesser" rings should always be lapped. Well, how about Leupold's? I have new, never-used Leupold Quick Release Rings and their 2-piece Quick Release Base.

The question then, "To Lap Or Not To Lap?"

Thanks!

Mel
 
Mel,
IMHO you might not see the difference
between lapped and non-lapped but it is a
"trick" used by those whom are trying to
maximize all accuracy possible. While your
at it mark your rings after you lapp F + R.

And yes to lapping all quality rings.
 
Since this thread is still short, anyone care to explain the best technique(s) for lapping rings, ie, describe the process.

Rick
 
Out of Brownells catolog.

"Helps prevent dinged and damaged scope tubes by removing high spots to quickly true misaligned or out of round scope rings so thet're perfectly in line."

Take a steel bar the same size as your tube, add a handle to the middle of the bar. Add a abrasive paste to the rings,
mount the "bar" and work it port to starbord as you add tension to the rings.
 
"Add tension to the rings."

The only photos I have seen of ring lapping shows only (I think) the bottom portion of the rings. You description suggests having top and bottom on and then increasing the tightness of the screws, correct? Or are you just saying apply more pressure to the lapping rod handle?

Rick
 
To the question "Should I lap Leupold rings?" Yes, I never bought a set of Leupold rings yet that were not in need of lapping.

As for how you do it, I use the Brownells lapping rods and their abrasive. Comes in a kit form and I have one for 1 inch and one for 30mm. Basically, you mount your rings with the lapping rod inserted and coated with compound. Keep your rings screwed down enough so that you can rotate the rod easily, but with some resistance. Give it about 30 rotations of the rod and remove the top rings. Check how much material/finish has been removed from the bottom rings. When you have about 80% of the rings' inside finish removed you are done. Otherwise reapply compound and screw on the top rings and give it another 30 strokes.

One word of caution. If you continue to tighten the screws as you lap, you will eventually be left with no gripping capability! Go easy.
 
Hello!

--thanks for the replies everyone!

Okay, it sounds like lapping the rings is the way to go; however, is this the kind of thing a complete beginner (me) should be trying, or is this better left for a gunsmith?

Although I love this first rifle, the little knick-knacks are definitely starting to cost a lot more than I had originally thought, ha-ha!

Mel
 
I just purchased a lapping kit from Sinclair International. Their instructions say to lap only the lower half of the rings, that the upper rings will flex sufficiently to "fit" the scope. Since I'm new to this, too, I'm not arguing this position, only reporting what their instructions say.
 
To lap before using the rod?

:) Once in a while the gods of scope alignment will give you a break. I would suggest the purchase of a set of scope alignment rods, also from Brownell's before grinding away at your scope rings. Most will need very little lapping before they can be mounted.:)
 
I've used the same method as slickpuppy and had good success on the first try with Luepold rings. When you consider the investment $$'s in a quality scope lapping seems to me to be good insurance.

I'd go with the lapping rod since you can also use it as a rough alignment indicator. Then if you need to lap you already have the rod. The lap rod kits run about $35, i think.

I also got a recticle leveler, although not essential it made the scope mount job go a lot faster.

-ric
 
Regardless of the quality of the rings you also have to take into account the precision of the mount holes in the reciever, the bases etc. I also have the Sinclair set up and use it everytime I mount a scope. Seems to work.
 
Forgot to mention that I also use scope alignment rods in conjunction with the lapping rod. I use the Brownells model that does both 30mm and 1 inch. Also, I use a scope reticle leveler. Well worth the cost considering I always seem to be playing with scopes and mounts.

You may want to have a competent gunsmith do the job, but it really is easy once you have the right tools. Once you have the tools, they really will last several lifetimes if you take care of them.
 
Also, on lapping just the bottom rings - the bottom rings are critical to get that 80 percent removal. The top rings will not show as much removal of material, usually, compared to the bottom rings and that is ok.

Still, you will get some material removed from the top rings. I just follow the Brownells instructions in using their tools. I have a LOT of Sinclair stuff. Just don't have their lapping tools. Not knocking what Sinclair is saying, just that Brownells has their recommendations, too.

By no means am I an expert at it but, I have done 8 mount jobs for my own rifles without any problems. If there is a better way to do it than I am, I surely am interested in improving the process!
 
Hola!

--again, thanks for the helpful replies everyone!

I'll be doing the ring-lapping mambo as soon as the Sinclair order arrives!

If there are any other important "y'might wanna..."-type things for scope mounting (things that might not appear in the "common" how-to instructions), feel free to tell me. I'm a beginner, I know nothing, and I *know that I know nothing, ha-ha!

Mel
 
Sinclair offers their scope ring lapping tool for $16.25 with compound and detailed instructions.I plan to purchase this item from them. I should take delivery on my Springfield 6X40 Govt model scope for my M1A tomorrow.I plan on lapping the rings when I mount my scope. I'll call Sinclair and see if they have a retail outlet and if they do I'll drive up to Fort Wayne and pick this set up.
 
I agree with slickpuppy-- Make sure your rings are installed nice and square first by using the Brownell's alignment rods. Your rings might not even need to be lapped...
 
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