Lake city brass + primers seating with crimp

S

swinguard

New member
Greetings all. I have been reloading .223 for the last 2 years and recently decided to try some LC brass from a company in California.

My order arrived yesterday and it was all LC and mainly 05. I can see the crimp ring around the primer pocket but can seat a primer without removing the crimp. All the spent primers in the cases are gold colored. I have only reloaded PMC brass and that crimp has to be removed before I can seat a primer. I contacted the company and they stated that some LC brass has a very light crimp and they reassured me it was once fired brass.

So what I'm wondering is are they telling me the truth and if they are should I still remove the crimp before seating the primer. I very carefully deprimed 6 cases I primed and the primers did not appear to be damaged or crushed.

I am planning on loading this brass to 5.56 specs with Data from Western and want to remain safe. Any response would be greatly appreciated
 
I would suggest swaging or reaming the primer pockets even though the six seated OK without swaging. That doesn't mean they all will and you will likely acquire other cases that will need swaging. You should be able to easily recognize by feel if primers are shearing slightly during seating and will not be satisfied if they are not being seated perfectly.
 
I've found the same thing. Unlike the 30 caliber cartridges, a lot of the 5.56 crimps are light and I've accidentally seated some with little resistance. The problem is that it isn't very consistent, so I don't trust primer feel as a seating guide until after swaging them.
 
Thanks gentlemen. I've only reloaded PMC brass. I like the brass, but the primer crimps are a real pain to say the least.

I am very impressed with my new brass and the fact that it was all LC as advertised. A friend of mine ordered from a different company advertising once fired LC brass and got half TAA that had clearly been reloaded before.
 
I've bought brass from Jeff Bartlett, www.gibrass.com before, and he offers a primer processing service as an option. It's a pretty nice time saver and I recommend it.

You'll still have to resize and trim before using, but you won't have to waste time on the primer pocket.

Jimro
 
When reloading I don't assume anything. Normally, military brass has crimped in primers, so, I treat all my once fired military brass as if it's crimped and process the primer pockets. No big deal, just part of reloading...
 
The company I purchased from also offers the crimp removal option. I chose to go with the cleaned only option so I could be sure I was receiving true once fired brass. It was also the reason I chose to try and prime a few cases that still had the crimps in place.

I'm going to be loading with 5.56 data for the first time and am trying to ensure I'm doing things correctly.

I have been loading a 65 gn sierra GK using .223 data and am now going to try it with the 5.56 data. My receiver and barrel are both marked 5.56. I will be starting with 20.9 gn of Accurate 2015. The .223 load gives 3/4 inch accuracy at 100 yards with a steady rest. I also have a pound of Tac and will be testing that to.

Thanks again for all the replies.
 
I process 100's of thousands of 5.56 LC brass and if I just decap them and 60%-70% of them will take a new primer without swagging so they could have just decapped them?

I run mine 2 times through the Dillon 1050. 1st time I decap and swag. 2nd I resize and trim.

99.9% of the swaged brass takes a new primer.
 
There are multiple ways of removing the primer pocket crimp-some are better than others and give a much more uniform result.
I think you're putting far too much emphasis on "loading with 5.56 data". What do you expect to achieve? That 5.56 stamp on the barrel only means the chamber is cut to a certain specification. It has no affect on the strength or capability of the rest of the firearm.
 
Yes Jepp I did purchase from Brass Bombers and I think I will purchase from them again.

I have to say their shipping is outstanding and the brass was very clean. As I stated in my previous posts I really don't have a lot of experience with .223/5.56 brass other than PMC bronze. I just wanted to make sure I didn't get taken like a friend of mine did with a different company.

Mobuck, I reloaded 20 of these using westerns 5.56 data and saw no signs of over pressure. My barrel and lower receiver are both marked 5.56. What else do I need to check to verify that my Rifle is safe for 5.56 pressures?
 
Most of these outfits simply buy range cleanup brass from PD's, bases, and ranges. They assume it's once fired but I've never seen a piece of LC brass that would take a primer without swagging first.
 
I like
Jeff Bartlett, www.gibrass.com
Click to expand...
and opt for consistent swaging.
When I do need to remove the crimp myself, I use a cordless drill with a 1/2" counter sink bit from Home Depot:
Ryobi Model # A10CS82 Internet # 205469295 Store SKU # 172988 5/8 in. High Speed Steel Countersink
I dont know why they dont show the 1/2" one on-line. I have two. At $8.50 they are a bargain, very quick and effective. One second per case on the bit.
 
Most of these outfits simply buy range cleanup brass from PD's, bases, and ranges. They assume it's once fired but I've never seen a piece of LC brass that would take a primer without swagging first.
Click to expand...

That's a blanket statement that is just not true. All of my brass is bought at government auction and is 100% once fired.

I know of a number of other outfits that buy brass at auction as well. It's not always the cheapest way to get brass but it is the best for getting 1x fired.
 
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