Kirici Shotguns - Has anyone heard of them?

davery25

New member
I've recently begun looking for a 12 ga O/U shotgun and in the brief shopping period have realised one thing - shotguns are a stranger game then rifles. There seems to be brands that come and then go as quickly as they came. I haven't seen any complete new brands of rifles hit stores in a while, but shotguns seem to come and go.

Anyway, I'm looking at a Turkish made U/O. I asked about it and the owner said that it was not as well finished as a Lanber, but quite a bit better then the Hatsan Escort and Stoeger Condor shotguns (which seem pretty equal in quality)

Anyone ever heard of these Kirici shotguns or have any experience with one?

A link is http://mialls.com.au/products.html?page=shop.product_details
 
Your dealer, (I am assuming Australia?), has better brands that you can get parts and service for a lot longer than this one

Beretta, Browning, Miroku, Webley and Scott, Fabarm , Rizzini, and Fausti are all excellent brands with coverage just about everywhere in the world
 
this is very true, but I'm not massively into shotguns (which I plan to use just for skeet/clay pigeon shooting) and don't want to spend more then $1000, as much as I'd love to have a Browning Citori or something like that.
 
actually on that note - lots of people have mentioned replacing firing pins and things like that on shotguns. In all my years of rifle and pistol shooting, I've never had any part wear out on me and I shoot quite a bit.

Is it common to have to replace things on a shotgun?
 
I had to replace a spring on my Browning when it hit 90,000 rounds. I had the smith replace all the main springs and pins as a preventative measure. The gun now has around 200,000 through it and is still going strong - the bill for that work was less than $100.

Used Brownings might be available in your area for $1000, but I am not familiar with Australia's laws on private sales, etc. A Miroku is typically 25-30% less than Browning and the exact same gun, and usually comes with nicer wood - definitely something to look at as far as brands go

Since you mention only clays, do yourself a favor and get a target model of whatever brand you decide on - it will typically weigh about a pound more and thus help with recoil management, besides having a stock more suited for clays than hunting

Good luck!
 
In all my years of rifle and pistol shooting, I've never had any part wear out on me and I shoot quite a bit.
Typically, rifles will wear out a barrel before a shotgun needs new parts.
 
My SKB O/U needed some springs when I bought it, it was about 40 years old then.Handled by the LGS as a warranty item.

I replaced the firing pin spring on a well worn 870TB trap gun twice, maybe 10K rounds apart. I shot over 30K rounds with it before sending it to its present owner/operator.

In over a half century of Shotgunning, those are the only parts I've needed.

However, I used to replace centerfire rifle barrels every 2K rounds.

When I shot K frames more then at present, every 3 or 4K rounds saw some shop time while a decent smith made things right.

I do have one 870 firing pin show some peening at the hind end from the hammer and possibly not heat treated correctly. I may need to replace it in another few K rounds.

Actually, I've a spare bolt and carrier I'll drop in....
 
that answers that then. for $950 (don't know about in the US, but in Australia under a $1000 for a o/u shotgun is cheap) i can't really go too wrong with this one as long as it fits me well.

I might buy this one, either this or the Akkar Churchill, depending which one fits better.

I don't really want to invest a tonne of money in a shotgun as apart from fit and finish, there's no other benefits like 'accuracy' to spending a heap more.

Feel very free to disagree though, I'm very new to shotguns.
 
Barrel regulation can be a problem on cheaper o/u guns so accuracy can be a problem. Also quality of metal and heat treating is spotty on many of them so they don't hold up to heavy use as well.
 
I suspect cheaper shotguns may be "shot-out" long before there's any significant sign of wear in the actual bore.
 
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