Kimber not cocking

D

Dave AA

New member
I have a Kimber custom s/s that goes to half cock or doesn't cock at all about every 10 rounds.
I've put 250 rounds through it, 100 CCI Blazer 230 grn. FMJ, 100 Remington 230 grn. FMJ, and 50 Remington 200 grn. HP.
I have used Wilson Combat 8 rounders, and the factory mags.
The first couple magazines I had a couple double fires, but that has disappeared.
Any ideas? I know this is probably a sear/hammer problem, but I don't know what specifically.
Also, I have had two failure to feeds, the round gets hung up halfway into the chamber.
The barrel is ramped, but seems much rougher that the feed ramp. Would polishing this with a Dremel and jewelers rouge help?
 
Dave,
this could be as simple as the mainspring adjustment. I kinda suspect that may take care of it. it could also be that it is just dirty in the sear/hammer engagement area.
 
What's a mainspring adjustment? I've never heard of it. I know it's not dirty, I stripped, cleaned and lubed all internal parts. Thanks!
 
Dave,
If the slide is cycling enough to pick up a round from the magazine, it is cocking the hammer, and the mainspring has nothing to do with it. Something (sear or sear notch) is broken or worn, or something isn't put together properly. Did you have the problems before you completely stripped the gun?

You might check the three-leaf spring; sometimes it is weak or not in right.

Jim
 
The problem occured before I took it apart, The sear/hammer area shows no chips or nicks.
I know the spring is in right, kind of hard to screw up since it has a tab that fits a slot in the frame, at least on my Kimber. It shouldn't be worn, the gun is new, and of recent manufacture.
I am at a loss :(
 
10mmrules probably meant to say sear spring instead of mainspring.

If the sear spring is adjusted too light it may not be putting enough pressure to keep the sear engaged when the slide goes into battery. Since your gun used to double, it sounds like the slide was getting into battery just before the sear let go. Otherwise you would just get hammer follow and no firing. These springs can be out of adjustment in new guns without being worn. Just one of those things that happen sometimes - usually they are set way too heavy!

Does your trigger seem to be very light, even when the gun functions properly? Does it let the hammer fall without any perceived movement of the trigger once the slack is taken up?

Even if it is the sear spring needing adjustment, the previous failures and drops to half cock may have damaged the sear nose (assuming it wasn't already a little off). My personal opinion would be that this gun needs to see a good gunsmith and have the sear spring tension checked as well as the hammer/sear engagement surfaces and breakaway angles. It may also be as simple as a rough spot in the frame/sear contact area causing sluggish movement from time to time. In any case a good 1911 gunsmith can find the cure.

Mikey
 
How do you go about adjusting the sear spring? is it just a matter of flexing/bending like the exractor? Or am I best off just getting a new one?
Thanks for the help
 
DaveAA,

Yes, you bend it much like you would an extractor. Always a little at a time and try it to see if it helps. Take enough time to look at the spring and understand how each leaf works if you don't know already. When viewed from the rear of the gun, the left leaf controls sear pressure and bending it toward the muzzle increases tension. The center leaf controls the disconnector and the right leaf is a grip safety return spring.

If it were mine I would still want to have the sear and hammer engagement surfaces checked just to be sure.

Mikey
 
hi dave,
if it were my gun that was having this problem, i would send it back to kimber and have them honor the warranty for your gun. the fact that your case of doubling "went away" is not comforting in the least. this is a safety issue, and i'm sure that kimber or any gun mfg. would want to resolve a safety issue out of fear of liability. send it in to get it done by the factory, and keep all the records. if you get work done by someone local, you may void all warranty rights, and free kimber from any blame should something go wrong.
best regards,
joe

------------------
www.skdtac.com
tactical accessories for self-defense and le
 
Send it in. Don't shoot it until it is checked out by Kimber. If it was a old rebuilder I would feel different. They should be happy to fix it if not let them know you will tell everyone at TFL :)
 
Sorry to cut in on your post, but there are enough "My Kimbers screwed up" posts as it is. Since all the responders seem to have the 1911 thing down, maybe you could help me out too.

I've put about 900 rounds through my gun and have noticed quite a bit of wear on the internals. The slide rails, which were once matte black are now exposed steel. Is this normal ? I have lubricated and cleaned this thing to death since new. I also notice quite a bit of play at the slide/frame towards the rear of the gun. Is this excessive or simply a matter of breaking it in ? This is my first handgun and I really don't know what to expect. Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
Hey McGee....

Try a product called "Ultima-lube" from Wilson Combat. I put the stuff on my P239 when it was brand new, felt like it was riding on nylon rails. 7,000+ rounds later, (and hundreds of hours dry practice) most of the finish is worn off of the external, but the slide rails are as black as when new...no metal showing. I thought that a lube was a lube, but Wilson's puts out a video on their product. They use a machine that tests the hardness of metals used for bearings. They compared most of the popular products to their own, the results were nearly unbelievable, until I verified them myself. (Sometimes 800+ rounds are digested between cleanings, too.) If you think that your "friend" is loose, have her checked by your local pro.

------------------
The Bible is my lawbook. I turn the other cheek when applicable, and spend the rest of my days resisting evil at every front, until I have breathed my last breath.
 
R!k, oh R!K! He's never around when somebody has a problem! :D

------------------
Be mentally deliberate but muscularly fast. Aim for just above the belt buckle Wyatt Earp
"It is error alone that needs government support; truth can stand by itself." Tom Jefferson
If you have to shoot a man, shoot him in the guts, it may not kill him... sometimes they die slow, but it'll paralyze his brain and arm and the fight is all but over Wild Bill Hickok
Remember: When you attempt to rationalize two inconsistent positions, you risk drowning as your own sewage backs up.
45 ACP: Give 'em a new navel! BigG
 
Gosh, I don't know if my Kimber is screwed up or not, it is still at the custom shop, been there for two and one half months. I have three e-mails telling me it will be any day now (most recently a promise to have it back before Christmas) so I'll be patient.

Hey Muscles, if you have problems with those little rails in the slide just take a rotary tool and grind them out. That's what Kimber did for the first 1/4 inch on the slide of my stainless Gold Match.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top