Kimber 8400 Classic Bedding

[DeerHunter24]

I have a Kimber 8400 Classic 300wsm. Have accuracy problems and decided to redo the bedding. It came from the factory with Pillar and Glass bedding. I noticed play in the action in the stock and also barrel clearance issues. See pictures of result.
My question is how much of the bedding should I remove if any in front of the recoil lug? Should any of the barrel touch the stock in front of recoil lug. Looking for maximum accuracy. Thanks.

torque specs on action screws 65in/lbs, trigger adjusted to 1.8lbs.

 

[Scorch]

That came from the factory that way? That is incredibly sloppy. If you are going to re-do the bedding, remove any contact forward of the recoil lug and make sure there is clearance at the front and bottom of the recoil lug and around the action screws and magazine box.

 

[tangolima]

What sort of play do you have?

If I am going redo the bedding, I would do it as if there is no previous glass bedding. I will remove most of it, leaving small strips as reference. I would probably glass bed the whole barrel channel with adequate clearance.

I agree it is a sub par job whoever has done before you. There may be metal sleeves in the action screw holes. But I can hardly see any of it making direct contact with the action.

-TL

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[jmr40]

Kimber website says "pillar and glass bedding" from the factory on wood stocks. My Montana has the synthetic stock with only pillars. Mine is fine as is.

 

[tangolima]

Kimber website says "pillar and glass bedding" from the factory on wood stocks. My Montana has the synthetic stock with only pillars. Mine is fine as is.

That's the bona fide pillar bedding. The action is supported by the pillars, and nothing else.

Pillar and glass is legit as long as the pillars are participating.

-TL

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[DeerHunter24]

Sorry for my poor communication.
1. This picture is the result of my first ever bedding job. Not what came from the factory.
2. The play I referred to was before I rebedded it. The play is gone now.
3. I have not finished sanding, grinding, finishing the job. That is where my question comes into play regarding whether to remove material in front of recoil lug.
4. Last, I did not redo the tang area. I was to nervous to try that on my first attempt on a walnut stock. Attached is the picture of the tang area I left alone.

 

[tangolima]

Oh I see. The tang bedding is actually quite decent. The pillar is making contact with action there. I assume the front was similar before you rebedded it. I don't know how you did it, but you may have raised the front of the action, as the front pillar now is below the new glass. Did you shim up the front of the action in order to have free floating barrel?

To answer your question, I generally don't remove anything supporting the action after the compound is cured. That should have be done by proper thickness taping of the action before the compound is poured. Minor removal for cosmetic reason is ok.

Not that I'm expert on bedding rifle. I just did a few. Some had excellent improvement on accuracy, and some didn't do anything. What you did may not be perfect, yet, but it may just work. You will know when you test fire it.

-TL

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