i've had a kart easy fit barrel sitting around the house for a while and i decided to fit it on my old beater sistema to see how it'll come out. i've adjusted the hood length and clearance and now the next step is to adjust the lockup with the two pads in the rear lockin groove.i'm about 1mm away from the slide closing completely. do you keep filing the lug pads until it locks up right?or do i change link length which your not suppose to have to do.hate to ruin it.anybody got any experience with this barrel installations?
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kart easy fit barrel
- Thread starter la rue
- Start date
The job of the link is to pull the barrel down when the slide travels to the rear. The link should not be relied upon for tight lock up in battery. In battery, the slide stop pin should be in firm, but not binding, contact with the slide stop pin. Jerry Khunhausen's book on the 1911 explains barrel fitting and I highly recommend reading it. It is always easier to remove a little more metal than to try to add metal.
Try marking the lugs, hood, and feet with a sharpie, then carefully assemble and attempt to close the action. Once it stops, open it up and see where the ink was removed. That should help you determine what needs to be done. My guess is that you should file the pads in the locking lugs some more, but I haven't fit my barrel yet, so I may be completely wrong.
George
George
Harry Bonar
New member
re-drop in
Dear Sir:
STANS has it! There is NO SUCH THING AS A "DROP IN" PART, especially a 1911 barrel!
That link, as STANS has said is there to do one job; to pull that barrel down, not to lock it up - yes the link follows the barrel up but the lower lug feet and polished radius actually "link up the barrel."
After fitting the hood, use a "work bushing" and center the barrel in the slide with a dial caliper with the barrrel holder in place. Slide this assembly on the frame and use a "lug cutter" to cut the bottom lugs until the slide is flush at the rear. Stop! Then put the standard link on the barrel with slide stop in cycle the pistol. You may (probably) need to contour the leading edge where your lug cutter has cut and with a very fine file. In short the barrel should be fully in the upper lugs and supported by the lower lugs with no down-play when in battery. It should never link up on the link!
I realize I've left alot out but this is just a very general review of so called, "drop-in" parts.
Dear Sir:
STANS has it! There is NO SUCH THING AS A "DROP IN" PART, especially a 1911 barrel!
That link, as STANS has said is there to do one job; to pull that barrel down, not to lock it up - yes the link follows the barrel up but the lower lug feet and polished radius actually "link up the barrel."
After fitting the hood, use a "work bushing" and center the barrel in the slide with a dial caliper with the barrrel holder in place. Slide this assembly on the frame and use a "lug cutter" to cut the bottom lugs until the slide is flush at the rear. Stop! Then put the standard link on the barrel with slide stop in cycle the pistol. You may (probably) need to contour the leading edge where your lug cutter has cut and with a very fine file. In short the barrel should be fully in the upper lugs and supported by the lower lugs with no down-play when in battery. It should never link up on the link!
I realize I've left alot out but this is just a very general review of so called, "drop-in" parts.