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Kahr Detail Strip
- Thread starter Grinch
- Start date
Dfariswheel
New member
Sorry, the detail 'details' are just too lengthy to post here. Not too hard, just look at the exploded view.
I did the full polish job on my K9 and notice absolutely NO difference. The Kahr's are about the smoothest guns I've ever seen. There just isn't much left that needs polishing.
I did the full polish job on my K9 and notice absolutely NO difference. The Kahr's are about the smoothest guns I've ever seen. There just isn't much left that needs polishing.
I think the exploded view is posted on the Kahr website. www.kahr.com . I know it's in the manual that comes with the gun. You can E mail them. It may take them a few days to get back to you but they will.
Dfariswheel
New member
OK, I'll attempt this from memory---NO guarentees.
SLIDE:
Use screwdriver (small) to pull extractor plunger to the rear, remove extractor, extractor plunger, spring, and rear plunger. Rear plunger interlocks the slide rear plate, is visible through notch in rear plate. If necessary, use small pin to push rear plunger forward, so plate is unlocked.
Use screw driver to pull firing pin guide rod (the rear rod visible inside the spring) to the FRONT. Hold in this position while you slide rear slide plate up and off. Remove guide rod, spring, striker pin and pin spacer. Remove striker safety and spring. There may be a black plastic pad at the rear of the striker rod and spring, that fits between the rod and the rear plate.
FRAME:
Remove mag catch same way as 1911. (The "screw" is NOT a screw, it's a lock stud. Push out slightly, turn 1/3 turn with screwdriver.
Remove trigger draw bar spring. Push out trigger pin LEFT to Right. Remove trigger draw bar, trigger spacer, trigger spring, and trigger.
Push out ejector/sear pin RIGHT to Left, This is a headed pin.
Remove rotating sear and spring, ejector.
REASSEMBLE:
Biggest problem is working the trigger spacer and spring into place, while holding draw bar in place.
NOTE: Stainless guns DO NOT have stainless parts, they're plated. The plating will be removed if polished.
PARTS TO POLISH: - SLIDE
Bottom of striker lock. Striker lug engagement surface.
FRAME:
Engagement surfaces of rotating sear, rear lug area of draw bar.
Again, these are already very smooth, and really don't need much work. These are so simple that very little improvement is even possible, so you won't notice much difference.
Hope I remembered everything. The trigger spring, spacer, drawbar are a BEAR to reassemble, be careful.
SLIDE:
Use screwdriver (small) to pull extractor plunger to the rear, remove extractor, extractor plunger, spring, and rear plunger. Rear plunger interlocks the slide rear plate, is visible through notch in rear plate. If necessary, use small pin to push rear plunger forward, so plate is unlocked.
Use screw driver to pull firing pin guide rod (the rear rod visible inside the spring) to the FRONT. Hold in this position while you slide rear slide plate up and off. Remove guide rod, spring, striker pin and pin spacer. Remove striker safety and spring. There may be a black plastic pad at the rear of the striker rod and spring, that fits between the rod and the rear plate.
FRAME:
Remove mag catch same way as 1911. (The "screw" is NOT a screw, it's a lock stud. Push out slightly, turn 1/3 turn with screwdriver.
Remove trigger draw bar spring. Push out trigger pin LEFT to Right. Remove trigger draw bar, trigger spacer, trigger spring, and trigger.
Push out ejector/sear pin RIGHT to Left, This is a headed pin.
Remove rotating sear and spring, ejector.
REASSEMBLE:
Biggest problem is working the trigger spacer and spring into place, while holding draw bar in place.
NOTE: Stainless guns DO NOT have stainless parts, they're plated. The plating will be removed if polished.
PARTS TO POLISH: - SLIDE
Bottom of striker lock. Striker lug engagement surface.
FRAME:
Engagement surfaces of rotating sear, rear lug area of draw bar.
Again, these are already very smooth, and really don't need much work. These are so simple that very little improvement is even possible, so you won't notice much difference.
Hope I remembered everything. The trigger spring, spacer, drawbar are a BEAR to reassemble, be careful.