K frame spring kit

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I'm looking to reduce the pull weight in my little 15-2.
When the gun first came home the trigger felt like I was dragging an anvil down a gravel road. When I opened the gun I found that for at least one day in 1964 S&W used a claw hammer and rusty nail to carve out frames. The machine work was among the worst I've seen, including a Lorcin and Jimenez.
After 4 hours of quality time with stones (could have saved time and used a bench grinder) the action became usable. The pull is still far too heavy. I do not have a trigger pull gauge but it's clearly the heaviest trigger in my gun safe.

My 25-2 has totally spoiled me when it comes to S&W triggers. The main spring was clearly changed before I bought the gun.
When I swapped the main spring from the 25 into the 15 the hammer fall was so light it barely dinged the primer and couldn't pop roll caps. Obviously, that's a no go.
I'd like to find a set of springs that will work with the 5,000 CCI primers I own and still be easy on the trigger finger.
I know much of the reduction will come from a different rebound spring but I don't want to end up with a main spring that is too light.

Which springs would you guys recommend?
 
Whatever you end up with, be sure to test the gun in DA as well as SA mode. The DA pull is typically less energetic so guns that function in SA might fail to ignite primers in DA. I've read of at least one self-defense situation that was complicated by a spring kit that hadn't been adequately tested in DA.
 
In my experience, part of the problem in comparing the two specifically mentioned revolvers is the difference in frame size. The N-frame and K-frame will just have a different "feel" from each other even if the same guy built both on the same day. I don't know the innards like many do, but I'm not surprised that the Model 25 spring wouldn't work in the 15.
When the gun first came home the trigger felt like I was dragging an anvil down a gravel road. When I opened the gun I found that for at least one day in 1964 S&W used a claw hammer and rusty nail to carve out frames. The machine work was among the worst I've seen, including a Lorcin and Jimenez.
After 4 hours of quality time with stones (could have saved time and used a bench grinder) the action became usable.
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I would love to have felt this gun in it's original state. That would be a first for me, out of a Smith & Wesson, anyway. With the extremely graphic manner you described it, almost seems like sending it away or seeing if S&W had an opinion might have been options.

In any case, Wolff has springs for most any occasion and they ship cheaply, too. www.gunsprings.com
 
I lightened the trigger on my K-frame (M18-7) a fair bit with just the rebound springs. I have to say it was a huge improvment. I wrote a DIY for it here http://sharpasamarble.com/Smith_Wesson_18-7.html. With a centerfire you could probably get away with a little bit of a reduction on the main spring but with only changing the rebound spring and the factory weight main spring I was very happy.
 
Good luck on the light spring that will pop the CCI primers. I think they are the hardest of all primers. My 15 shoots Fed, Rem and Win, I don't buy CCI. I've owned guns with factory springs that would misfire on CCI primers.
 
You'll probably be OK in SA with the CCI primers, but not DA if you go with the lighter Wolff springs. As Chowder mentioned, changing out the rebound spring alone will lighten the action, but won't affect the force of the hammer hitting the primers, so you might want to try that first. It's easy to try different mainsprings (even at the range), but the rebound spring is something better done on or over the workbench at home.

The best primers for lightened spring guns are Federal If this is a SD gun, I recommend you leave the mainspring original.
 
I don't know the innards like many do, but I'm not surprised that the Model 25 spring wouldn't work in the 15.
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If I am not mistaken (too lazy to look it up), the K, L, N S&W guns all take the same springs...or at least, if I am not mistaken the Wolf Kits are the same for all three.
 
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I've read of at least one self-defense situation that was complicated by a spring kit that hadn't been adequately tested in DA.
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Which begs the question: Why would anyone not focus on the double-action trigger when dealing with a defensive gun? There should not even be a hammer spur on a defensive double-action. What do they envision doing, shooting a gun out of a bad guy's hand? Rescuing a fair maiden being held hostage with a precise single action shot to the bad guy's head? Whoops, I should have held a tad more to the left, little lady...sorry about that.
 
Which begs the question: Why would anyone not focus on the double-action trigger when dealing with a defensive gun?
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Your comment points the finger at the situation, as if someone armed themselves planning to go single action and take long-aim like Danny Glover in Lethal Weapon 2 when he revoked that guy's "diplomatic immunity", but the short answer (the most likely answer) as to what happened here wasn't that the gun in question was designed to be used single action...

...it's just as simple as it wasn't put through the ringer due to laziness, carelessness or thoughtlessness.

Here where we surround ourselves with hardcore enthusiasts, perhaps we forget how many guns (outside of the hands of the -REAL- enthusiasts, like ourselves) actually get used and practiced with.

It's a number we'll never know, but we can speculate. I'm going to speculate that it's very, very low.
 
Which begs the question: Why would anyone not focus on the double-action trigger when dealing with a defensive gun?
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My guess is that a lot of people have no idea that the DA and SA hammer strikes differ in energy and therefore have no reason to expect that they need to test the gun in both modes.

I also think that most people at the range shoot the way that they enjoy shooting the most with little regard for the reality of self-defense scenarios. With typical revolvers, that probably means that most, if not all, of the shooting is done in SA because that's what gives them the best results on target. Hitting is more fun than missing and good groups are more fun than big ones...
 
For spring kits in S&W revolvers I just reduce the rebound spring 1 to 2 lbs.

I NEVER change the hammer spring cause I like guns that go 'bang' even if dirty as heck.

But I also carefully polish the rebound slid, the working surfaces of the bolt and trigger, hammer spring guide, and the bearing surfaces of the trigger and hammer.

Then I use a real good grease to slicken it up.

After re-assembly I then hammer cock and cycle the action without actually dropping the hammer.

Deaf
 
Deaf, I've slicked up the action about as good as it's going to get without resorting to some high tech wizardry.

This is not a defensive gun. It's a can chaser. Still, I plan on wringing it out in DA. If it'll light primers in DA, it'll do the same in SA all day long.
If I can't get a significantly lighter pull, I'll have to pick up a spare trigger and grind it smooth. The serrations in this thing are rubbing a raw spot on the side of my trigger finger.

Wolff does list the same springs for the K,L, and N frames.
 
I NEVER change the hammer spring cause I like guns that go 'bang' even if dirty as heck.
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Not that anyone should care, but I ALWAYS change the hammer spring for a lighter one and my guns always go "bang" even when dirty as heck, full of sludge from shooting cast lead bullets. That, with the polishing of parts and reduced recoil spring, enables a very light double-action pull that is pleasant to shoot as well as reliable.

I'll have to pick up a spare trigger and grind it smooth.
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With some models, wider, smooth faced triggers may be still had from Numrich Gun Parts. I swap them out as matter of course also...the wider surface gives the feel of a lighter trigger while at the same time getting rid of those trouble-some striations.

Then I use a real good grease to slicken it up.
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I do the same, but use a real bad grease instead.:confused:

A couple of more things to look at, are the trigger and hammer bosses in the frame and side plate. They are often left rough from factory and the "burrs" dig into the trigger and hammer rotation surfaces. Also, look at the sides of the hammer for rub-marks from frame contact...that also seems to be a problem with S&W's...hammer rubbing on the frame, lessoning the force of the hammer fall. Shims for straightening the trigger and hammer are available from Brownell's.
 
I like the BANG, Inc Kit -- available at brownell's.
I have this on my 686+
Lightening of the rebound spring gave the biggest change in trigger pull weight in my revolver.
 
A couple of folks have recommended leaving the mainspring alone and just lightening the rebound spring, so I'll offer a caveat:

The rebound spring contributes quite a lot to the trigger pul weight, so lightening it will lighten the trigger pull, but the rebound & mainsprings ought to be balanced such that the trigger returns quickly & fully. If you only lighten the rebound spring, you run the risk of short-stroking the trigger, particularly during rapid DA fire, and/or if you have the common bad habit of letting your finger ride the trigger during the return.
 
I know much of the reduction will come from a different rebound spring but I don't want to end up with a main spring that is too light.

Which springs would you guys recommend?
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Trapper Gun Springs sell individual springs and kits that have three main springs and three trigger return springs. They come labeled as to which is which. With a little trial and error, you can find the springs that will reliably ignite your CCI primers (and give a reliable trigger return) and still give the lightest double-action pull possible.
 
Hermit, every moving part in the action has met my Arkansas stones. Each surface they move against has been dressed as well. I've even spent a litte quality time on the pins and pivot holes. This poor thing needed more than its fair share of help.

I've always used Wolff springs but I'll give Trapped a look.
 
I misposted...I do not know if Trapper Guns Springs is even still in existence. I meant to post, Wolff Gun Springs (Kits). I used Trapper gun springs years ago...the name got stuck in my head.
 
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