K-frame S&W with adjustable sights?

I

idek

New member
I've been pondering buying a revolver for a while. I recently started reloading 38/357 for my lever action carbine, so I'd like to stick with that caliber.

The gun would mostly be for range shooting, but I would also use it as a trail/camp gun and maybe try some small game hunting. It doesn't have to be small enough for a CCW, but I don't want it too heavy/bulky.

I'm thinking a K-frame gun with adjustable sights and a barrel 4" or longer might fit the bill. However, I don't know much about specific models. Which ones match what I'm looking for?
 
357 magnum - model 19 / 66 (SS version of 19)
38 special - Model 15 / 67 (SS version of 15) or model 14

Since you want 38/357 cal, K frame and adj sights, these are your choices. The model 14 is a target masterpiece 6in adj sight gun. The Model 15 and 19 are combat guns, 4in, taper barrel, baughman front sight.
 
thanks for the quick replies. I'd like the option of 357 even though I'd mostly shoot 38 sp. so the 19 and 66 are what I'll look for.
 
There is nothing like a 66. This one is my first year gun, 1974. Quite possibly my favorite 357 that I own. Everything you need, and nothing you don't.

SW663.jpg
 
I used to be a big fan of the Model 19/66. Still am really, but the Model 15/67 has edged them out as "first choice."

A little lighter, and generally speaking less expensive, they will do 99% of what a 19/66 will do.

100_0422.jpg


And there has never been a better name than "Combat Masterpiece."

Nothing wrong with a 19/66 though.
 
In adjustable sighted K-Frames chambered in either .38 Special or .357 Magnum, your choices are as follows:

M15- Carbon steel with blue or nickel finish, ramp front sight, tapered barrel in either 2" or 4", non-lugged ejector rod, .38 Special caliber

M67- Same as M15 except stainless rather than carbon steel

M14- Carbon steel with blue or nickel finish, partridge front sight, heavy barrel (some very early specimens had tapered barrels) in 6" length, non-lugged ejector rod, .38 Special Caliber.

M19- Carbon steel with blue or nickel finish, ramp front sight, heavy barrel in 2 1/2", 4", or 6" length, half-lugged ejector rod, .357 Magnum caliber.

M66- Same as M19 except stainless rather than carbon steel and also available with 3" barrel depending on the vintage.
 
S&W model 19...

Positively the best combination of power, size, ergonomics, portability, and functionality to be found in any gun ever made.
 
K-frame love abounds,,,

And there has never been a better name than "Combat Masterpiece."
Click to expand...

It's hard to disagree with that statement. :D

No matter whether it's a S&W Model 18 in .22,,,
Or a S&W Model 15 in .38 Special.

11-stella_didi.JPG


It's a particular passion of mine to collect exact matching pairs of guns in .22 LR and a centerfire cartridge,,,
I dunno if there is any great virtue or training advantage in owning a matched set,,,
But I surely enjoy taking this pair to the range together.

S&W model 19...

Positively the best combination of power, size, ergonomics, portability, and functionality to be found in any gun ever made.
Click to expand...

C'mon Mike, don't be shy,,,
Tel us what you really think about the Model 19 Combat Magnum. ;)

Aarond

.
 
idek:

If you want a blue modle 19, find a good used four or six inch barrel. If you want stainless, either new or used, go with a four to six inch barrel model66. A four inch will be handier then a six; however the long sight radis will, in most cales, allow you to shoot the six inch more accurately. The K frame smiths will last many life times.

Semper Fi.

Gunnery Sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired
 
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With the option of adjustable sights and .357, it comes down to the Model 19 or Model 66. If you went to fixed sight models shooting .357, then the Model 13 and Model 65 would be options.

You mentioned using it as a camp/trail gun. A three inch barreled revolver is very handy for that, IMO. Still a decent sight radius and a little more handy. The SW Model 60 is a five-shot, steel J-frame .357 magnum (in it's most recent configuration) that would handle most .357 loads (maybe not the heaviest loads). The J-frame actions aren't as slick but can be made nicer.
 
I wouldn't part with my Model 14 for nothing. It's the most accurate offhand centerfire shooter I've ever owned.
 
FWIW here's a few thoughts re: barrel lengths and other random tidbits. :D
  • The standard barrel lengths on the M19 and M66- roughly in order of ascending rarity and value- were 4", 6", 2-1/2", and 3". The 3" guns are expensive and sought after because not many were produced AND this is the shortest length that accommodates a full-length ejector rod, i.e. a rod long enough to punch a .357Mag case all the way out of the chamber.
  • Contrary to popular belief and frequently parroted misinformation on the Interwebz, the difference between the M14 and M15 isn't necessarily the barrel length- it's the front sight. The former normally had a Patridge sight while the latter had a serrated ramp front sight. While it's true that most M14's are 6" and most M15's are 2" or 4", this is not universally true; S&W has built 4" M14s, 5" versions of both guns, 6" M15s, and 8-3/8" versions of both. However, these guns are unusual and generally demand a premium due to collector interest.
  • OTOH the M67 is, for all practical purposes, 4" only. IIRC S&W has built a few special runs in other lengths, but it's unlikely you'll find one in the hands of someone who doesn't realize what he or she has (and has priced it accordingly).
  • The last versions of the M19 and M66 that were "Pinned & Recessed"- i.e. that have a barrel alignment pin and counterbored chambers- were the M19-4 and M66-1. Later versions lack these features, which is actually a Good Thing if you're looking for a shooter, because these features don't have influence on how long the gun lasts or how well it shoots BUT their absence lowers the resale value. "P&R" guns are sought after solely for collecting reasons.
  • Nickel M15s and M19s are fairly commonplace, but factory nickel finish is rare on M14s.
  • Early M66s had the rear sight and base finished in SS to match the rest of the gun, but this finish was discontinued due to complaints about excessive glare in direct sunlight. These guns are uncommon and may command a premium, but are best avoided if you expect to frequently shoot outdoors.
  • Some early M66s had inferior-quality chrome finish on the trigger; this finish was excessively soft and tends to gall at the frame, hammer, and cylinder stop contact points, causing roughness or binding with extended use. :( Be watchful for this.
  • Some recent-production M67s were built with a 2-piece barrel assembly consisting of a SS sleeve surrounding a steel liner. There have been a number of reports of barrel failures with these guns and IMHO they are best avoided. Fortunately, these guns were offered in the late 90s and early 2000s when LE revolver sales had already fallen off, so they're fairly uncommon. (Oddly, there don't seem to be nearly as many reported failures with the L frame .357Mag M620 and a number of J frame models that use similar sleeved barrels.)
  • A few M14s were SAO; pulling the trigger in DA mode on one of these guns will advance the cylinder but will NOT lift and drop the hammer. IOW if you find a M14 that does this, it's NOT broken, it's just unusual. ;)
  • You may find references to any of these guns having "3T's"; this means it has the optional wide Target hammer and trigger and oversize Target stocks. This increases value somewhat and is often seen in conjunction with the M14 SAO option. However, I find it harder to shoot well in DA mode with the wider Target trigger, but YMMV.
  • Almost all of these guns were shipped with an adjustable trigger stop that fits in a little slot aft of the trigger; however, a large number of LE trade-in guns had the stop removed due to a 1970s factory advisory that the stop may slip out of position and prevent the trigger from functioning. (Before you panic, be aware that AFAIK S&W experts have been unable to find any verifiable incidents where this actually happened; S&W evidently issued the advisory merely because it COULD happen.) However, (a) the SA trigger feels plenty good without the stop, and (b) it can be replaced by the superior modern-style and more failsafe stop consisting of a custom-fitted rod that goes inside the lockwork.
FWIW. :cool:
 
If you want to buy a nice used S&W without having to sell body parts...

http://www.jgsales.com/smith-wesson-...-w-p-6679.html

http://www.jgsales.com/smith-wesson-...-w-p-5825.html

I purchased one a few years ago and I am very satisfied with it. I also purchased a model 10. The model 10 had some Holster wear but both were in very good shape.
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Thanks for the tip. This doesn't entirely match what I'm looking for, but for that price, it might be a good first revolver. If POA/POI are close enough, I may not feel the need for adjustable sights. If it doesn't quite live up to my hopes or I decide I must have .357 capability, I suspect I could trade it in without losing too much.
 
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