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Colten519

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Hey guys I'm new here and I'm about to start reloading for a hobby and because the fiancé and I love to go shoot. Just bought a 257 weatherby mag and figure it will be more cost effective to load it myself seeing as ammo is expensive and limited. Just wanted to say hello and if anyone has any tips they would be greatly appreciated. I've read the stickys and just figured if anyone has any quick tips it would be welcomed. Y'all will probably be hearing from me along the way as I learn.

Thanks
 
Welcome to the never ending cycle of reloading. Hope you aren't trying to get in this hobby to save a ton of money. That won't ever happen because you'll shoot a lot more. I thought the same thing about .44mag and now I just shoot 3-4 times than originally planned. There are a bunch of people on here with tips and knowledge. One of the most common answers you'll hear is go by the recommended manuals. There are quite a few manuals out there and you don't need every single one. I personally recommend the Lyman 49th Edition and Hornady 9th Edition. If you can't find the data you need in either of those manuals, get online and go to the powder manufacture that you're using. They will have data for your particular combination IF it's recommended. Good luck.
 
Thanks a bunch. I'm not trying to save lots of money. Just trying to save some and the ammo that is available for the 257 mag is not what I want to shoot so I'll be able to make the load I want. I bought the hornady lock and load classic kit on sale so it came with the 9th edition. I'll get the 49th also. Thanks a bunch
 
To increase the life of your cases, do not full length resize. Use the Hornady Headspace Comparator to set the full length dye so the shoulder of the case is set back approximately 0.002 to 0.004 inches. This can also be done by using a Sharpie to blacken the neck of the case and shoulder. When the die is touching the shoulder, stop. Always try the resized case in the rifle. If it chambers, the full length die is set properly.

There are 14 threads per inch on the die so one full turn of the die will move it 0.0714 inches.

Bob
 
I started with straight walled pistol cartridge reloading which taught me alot, then stepped up to rifle cartrige reloading which introduces some new wrinkles. STAY at the starting loads, shoot 10 or so of those, slowly work towardsbthe max loads, stop when accuracy peaks.

As mentioned above, if you are using the cases in just one gun than just meck size rather than full length size. Your brass will last longer and some accuracy can be gleaned.

Get a reloading manual. On the list of loads the top load of the list will be thr most desirable. Try to use a powder that fills the case the most given the measurement for the load. This will keep you safe from over loading and over pressuring.

Havr fun. I quite enjoy the chore and the results are rewarding.
 
Colten519, are you only reloading for the 257 Weatherby mag. If so to check for headspace I found the RCBS Precision mic the best to check for headspace & OAL to ojive. Also the Redding competition shell holders, set of 5. F/L sizing die & a competition seating die.
 
Colten519, the Hornady Comparator's for now maybe the cheapest way to go for now, they work fine , the RCBS precision mic you would have to buy one for every caliber. Just remember to remove the used primer before checking your measurements.
 
Buy a headspace gauge before even starting to load for your belted magnum. Hornady's Headspace Gauge Set will work with your calipers and measure most all rifle calibers. You will only get about 3 safe loads if you full length resize and push the shoulder back each time. The belted magnum will stretch just in front of the case belt and will separate if stretched too far. Always check inside the case for signs of stretching. You can use a bent sharpened wire to feel for the stretch mark or a light to look for it. The belted cases HAVE to be sized to headspace in your chamber on both the belt and the shoulder. Working up to maximum loads note that RP and Federal brass tend to be heavier than Weatherby brass with less internal volume. A max load in Weatherby brass may be too hot for RP or Federal brass.
 
This may be a stupid question but since I don't want to do a full resize on the mag case then do I need a universal de capper die or how do I get the primer out without it trying to size the case
 
Welcome to reloading. Thanks for asking our advice.

They make two different types of dies. Neck-sizing only and full-length sizing.

Full-legth sizing dies can be used to neck-only-size, but the adjustment is pretty fine. Doable, though.

One neck-sizes for rifles that like (or can tolerate) a really tight fit, brass-to-chamber. Semi-auto and lever actions so not have as strong a camming action to finally chamber a round, so need a bit more room between chamber and brass.

So, if you fire cases in the same firearm every time, the brass gets fire-formed to precisely fit the chamber, you potentially get better accuracy and longer brass life (because of less flexing and working of the brass).

But, after a few firings, the cases will inevitably get a bit larger and will need to be full-length resized. You can tell when chambering gets difficult (the case gets to be a "crush fit" in the chamber). Eventually you may not be able to close the bolt.

Look up the term "case stretch" which signals that retirement of the case is to be considered soon. "Shoulder setback" (which happens when you full-length resize too enthusiastically) and hastens retirement and "case head separation" which is an unmistakable signal that your case has just retired.

Lost Sheep
 
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Colten519, I use to neck size until I talked to competition benchrest shooters, started reading on the pros & con's . I now full size, when properly sized it's more accurate with the same amount of reloads as neck sizing. When neck sizing your cases are different lengths, as they become tighter to chamber you risk galling your bolt locking lugs. Bolt action headspace .001 full sized on every case, they will chamber without a problem & accurate. Try both ways & see what works best for you.
 
So is there an easy way to full size while making sure you don't overwork the brass and if so can someone explain. Thanks
 
You asked a good question. If you shoot a lot, here's what I suggest: Neck size with a neck sizing die or neck size by using a FL sizing die to Partial Resize the cases (Google that up). After several reloadings in this fashion, where you have not reset the case shoulder, and depending on how hot your loads are, fired cases will become a bit harder to chamber in your rifle. At this point, switch to the FL sizing die. You want to resize the fired cases JUST ENOUGH that they will chamber easily, so back the die out and size a case. It'll still be hard to chamber. Screw the die in 1/4 turn and try again. Do this till the resized case chambers easily. Lock the die ring right there.

There are other ways to do the above, using more equipment, but I have outlined an easy cheap way to do what you need.

One thing to mention is that using the neck die as suggested is better than doing a partial resize, depending on the case design. Cases with body taper (270) partial resize well. Cases with little or no body taper (260, 308) probably won't partial resize well.
 
Looks like the common consensus is to neck size a few times before full length. What do I look for when inspecting cases to see about future problems
 
Welcome to the never ending cycle of reloading. Hope you aren't trying to get in this hobby to save a ton of money. That won't ever happen because you'll shoot a lot more.
Click to expand...

Yup, you'll shoot more, then you will buy more powder to see what's better in your gun, then you'll buy more reloading gear to make it faster/easier.......and so the cycle continues. If I had stopped at my first batch of gear, I would have saved a fortune in this endeavor. I'm not to the point that I'm losing money, but I'm not sure I'm saving any either.

As far as neck sizing only, I have done both, and I see no difference in accuracy from neck sizing to a PROPERLY ADJUSTED F/L sizing die. I also don't think it's worth taking the time to treat my "target ammo" any different than my hunting ammo. I ALWAYS F/L size my hunting ammo, as I don't to want to have a chambering problem in the field.
 
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