Got it for $200, just needs a slight touch-up of the blueing at the end of the barrel. Took it to the range and put 300 rds through it and I'm very happy with it. Great accuracy, but the sights bug me a bit. Can anything be done to the fixed sights, besides maybe a little dab of paint on the front blade? It's really hard to see sometimes, which could bite me since this will be my duty gun doing security patrol, primarily at night. Came with Pachmayr Gripper, I've already changed it to the Hogue rubber grip. Now I get to go back to the range with the new grip and some different ammo and see how it handles. One thing I'm curious about is the specifics for this model. I found one place online that mentioned some of the different model variations, but not for my model. It's a 10-6, S/N 934xx. And on to the holsters. I ordered a duty holster already, just waiting for it to arrive. I bought an Uncle Mikes belt slide holster for 4" revolvers, the size 2. It seems to be a pretty tight fit, and I was wondering how much of the gun should be covered. The side of the holster runs pretty even to the back of the trigger, with the back of the trigger guard sticking out. Seems to me that it might snag on something somehow, maybe I'm just paranoid. Is it OK, or should I get a different holster that fits better? While I'm asking, what does everyone recommend for a holster for a 4" model 10? I'm sticking with strong side or crossdraw right now, although I might try the UM's shoulder rig later. not sure about IWB, seems a bit hard to fit in there since my pants are fitting a little tight already(and it won't be helped by the pizza I'm having for lunch). Probably obvious enough, but this is my first revolver(first working handgun if you want to get technical, my firestar 9mm has problems that keep me from using it), and I just want to check on a few things...
Just got a S&W Model 10
- Thread starter kd7bcy
- Start date
revolvergeek
New member
Great guns these S&W 10s. I have a couple of them and love them dearly. A 5-inch 10-5 was the first centerfire handgun that i ever owned.
Not much that you can do with the sights unless you want to send it to a gunsmith. Any good gunsmith should be able to put a colored insert into the front site, and some should be able to cut your front site down and dovetail in a novak front with a white dot or a tritium dot if you really want to change things, but this will cost you maybe $75 - $100.
I generally just paint mine. Get some testor's model paint, white and flourescent red, and some super glue. Put a white base coat, then the red, and then when you are happy with the coverage put a couple of tiny drops of super glue on it. Cheap, reasonably tough, and will make the front MUCH easier to pick up.
Look at the Don Hume website for some nice cheap belt slide holsters if you don't like the way your Uncle Mikes fits. I think Hume's basic leather belt slide covers the entire trigger guard and costs $28 plus shipping.
Not much that you can do with the sights unless you want to send it to a gunsmith. Any good gunsmith should be able to put a colored insert into the front site, and some should be able to cut your front site down and dovetail in a novak front with a white dot or a tritium dot if you really want to change things, but this will cost you maybe $75 - $100.
I generally just paint mine. Get some testor's model paint, white and flourescent red, and some super glue. Put a white base coat, then the red, and then when you are happy with the coverage put a couple of tiny drops of super glue on it. Cheap, reasonably tough, and will make the front MUCH easier to pick up.
Look at the Don Hume website for some nice cheap belt slide holsters if you don't like the way your Uncle Mikes fits. I think Hume's basic leather belt slide covers the entire trigger guard and costs $28 plus shipping.
Great choice for a first revolver!
I love the Model 10, and its precendents the Military & Police variations.
As far as the sights being hard to see, you could try some of that white, red, yellow or blaze orange sight paint.
The brand I use is called Bright Sights, here's their website www.brightsights.com.
As far as holsters, your agency may have certain requirements.
For the gun to go off by being snagged by something you'd have to be moving straight down and some forked object like a branch would have to pull the trigger all the way through its travel.
That isn't likely, it could happen, but really a slim chance.
The trigger pull is anywhere between 7 and 15 lb.s, and since you mentioned that the holster is very snug, the resistance to having the cylinder turned would greatly increase the weight of the pull.
A thumb-snap hammer strap would eliminate this concern nearly entirely.
Another concern is that the gun is snagged and pulled out of the holster. Again, it could happen, but you'd have to be in a helluva tumble or struggle to not notice this happening.
There are endless choices in holsters for the K-frame S&W (of which your M10 is a subset) so you really can find exactly what works for you.
My advice?
Check with your job about holster requirements before you drop too much money.
Find a load that shoots point-of-aim and practice practice practice.
Enjoy!
-Kframe
I love the Model 10, and its precendents the Military & Police variations.
As far as the sights being hard to see, you could try some of that white, red, yellow or blaze orange sight paint.
The brand I use is called Bright Sights, here's their website www.brightsights.com.
As far as holsters, your agency may have certain requirements.
For the gun to go off by being snagged by something you'd have to be moving straight down and some forked object like a branch would have to pull the trigger all the way through its travel.
That isn't likely, it could happen, but really a slim chance.
The trigger pull is anywhere between 7 and 15 lb.s, and since you mentioned that the holster is very snug, the resistance to having the cylinder turned would greatly increase the weight of the pull.
A thumb-snap hammer strap would eliminate this concern nearly entirely.
Another concern is that the gun is snagged and pulled out of the holster. Again, it could happen, but you'd have to be in a helluva tumble or struggle to not notice this happening.
There are endless choices in holsters for the K-frame S&W (of which your M10 is a subset) so you really can find exactly what works for you.
My advice?
Check with your job about holster requirements before you drop too much money.
Find a load that shoots point-of-aim and practice practice practice.
Enjoy!
-Kframekd7bcy,
Since this is your first wheelgun and your duty weapon, alot of practice is called for. www.gunsnammo.com has CAVIM 158 gr. RNL 38Spl for $89.99 per case. This is a great deal for practice ammo since your fixed sights are calibrated for this load. Unless your company issues your duty load, I'd recommend any of the major brands 158gr. lead semi-wadcutter hollowpoints. Bright Sight's Blaze Orange works very well at night on my Mdl 10-5 pencil barrel. Depending on company requirements, I'd check out www.rfholsters.com for my leather gear and HKS speedloaders. Above all else practice, practice, and practice some more . Your life may depend on it. Good luck and good shooting.
SgtMaj13
Semper Fi
Since this is your first wheelgun and your duty weapon, alot of practice is called for. www.gunsnammo.com has CAVIM 158 gr. RNL 38Spl for $89.99 per case. This is a great deal for practice ammo since your fixed sights are calibrated for this load. Unless your company issues your duty load, I'd recommend any of the major brands 158gr. lead semi-wadcutter hollowpoints. Bright Sight's Blaze Orange works very well at night on my Mdl 10-5 pencil barrel. Depending on company requirements, I'd check out www.rfholsters.com for my leather gear and HKS speedloaders. Above all else practice, practice, and practice some more . Your life may depend on it. Good luck and good shooting.
SgtMaj13
Semper Fi
What a coincidence....back in the 70's (?) my dad bought a brand new model 10 with 4" barrel in bright nickel finish with walnut grips and later gave it to me for protection when I moved out. I still have it. I've shot maybe 100 rounds through it and keep it in pristine condition as a protection weapon (with 110-grain Hydra-Shoks). I love that it's really light and solid.
You can sure see the difference between then and now on SW's quality. My model 10 gun has a cylinder that is dead tight (zero end shake) and the crane has no play at all even swung out of the gun. The pull is smooth as glass. Cylinder lock-up is perfect (dead tight).
For duty carry, you might want to get some better grips: I stumbled onto some for that particular square-butt gun that are really nice at Brownells (838-001-101)..
For sight visibilty: yours have the rear groove sight and ramp front? I paint the front ramp orange and the rear sight flat surface yellow to make them easy to see quickly.
You can sure see the difference between then and now on SW's quality. My model 10 gun has a cylinder that is dead tight (zero end shake) and the crane has no play at all even swung out of the gun. The pull is smooth as glass. Cylinder lock-up is perfect (dead tight).
For duty carry, you might want to get some better grips: I stumbled onto some for that particular square-butt gun that are really nice at Brownells (838-001-101)..
For sight visibilty: yours have the rear groove sight and ramp front? I paint the front ramp orange and the rear sight flat surface yellow to make them easy to see quickly.
Bill Adair
New member
Kd,
Congratulations!
I have a 5" thin barrel model 10-5, and love it!
The problem I have with the sights is not the front blade, but the small fixed rear sight! In spite of that, mine shoots pretty nice groups.
You could have after market sights installed, but that would require machining and/or drilling.
Perhaps a little more practice will help you with quick sight acquisition, and I hear the K frames are about the most natural point shooters (simply aiming down the barrel) on the market!
Bill
Congratulations!
I have a 5" thin barrel model 10-5, and love it!
The problem I have with the sights is not the front blade, but the small fixed rear sight! In spite of that, mine shoots pretty nice groups.
You could have after market sights installed, but that would require machining and/or drilling.
Perhaps a little more practice will help you with quick sight acquisition, and I hear the K frames are about the most natural point shooters (simply aiming down the barrel) on the market!
Bill