JB Weld

I've used JB to "build" custom scope base shims. Holds up fine. The "piece de resistance" is the scope bases JB 'd to an ultra hard receiver 03A3. This has with stood hundreds of rounds of 30/06 over the last 4 decades w/o fail. I've also used JB to repair stripped threads and minor cracks on aluminum chainsaw housings.
 
JB Weld will hold up in on an automobile engine without worrying about heat. It will hold to your gun with no problems. Just don't think you can remove it later.
 
Yes you can use JB anywhere , epoxy is used.
I would never use it to glue a scope base.
It has pretty good psi bonding but limited shear strength aginist recoil IMO
 
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JB Weld will hold up in on an automobile engine without worrying about heat. It will hold to your gun with no problems. Just don't think you can remove it later.
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Yes, and no.

I use it all the time. Bedding compound, and as a cosmetic filler prior to Cerakote work if it's needed. Easily takes barrel heat- at least, as hot as any recreation shooters should ever let their barrel get.

Removing- just put a torch to it. Softens the epoxy for easy removal. Sort of like red threadlocker in these regards.
 
Years ago I bid on and won a rifle that was listed as the ugliest rifle ever Sporterized and then they added “WHAT WAS HE THINKING?”
I was going for the sum of the parts, I was thinking no one could build anything that ugly without knowing what they were doing so I bid on and won the auction. I paid $120.00 plus shipping. Before I started on the parts I loaded 120 rounds of 12 loads using different cases, powders and bullets and went to the range. After spending most of the day shooting and cooling the rifle I decided there was nothing I could do to improve on the accuracy. The groups moved but did not open up and each group could be covered with a quarter.

The barrel was bedded with JB Weld, the barrel was welded/bedded with a stock below the barrel and a stock above the barrel. The stock was the recoil lug and mounted to a short butt stock.

I could call this rifle ‘BEAUTY’, it is a M1917 Remington, It does not have the large floor plate and it does not have a magazine well, it is part of the bedding.

Reloading forums had a field day, I was concerned all of the attention was going to drive the price up. The builder included his driver license number to the top of the receiver.

Any how, I applied the leaver policy to the rifle after returning from the range. I lefter the way I founder.

F. Guffey
 
JB Weld is simply epoxy with ground aluminum in it.
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I wasn't aware that it has aluminum in it, but I do know it has at least some type of metal that is attracted to a magnet. I've picked up cured pieces of it with a magnet.
 
In a past life [career] I've used it for everything I needed to put together that duct tape wasn't strong enough for. I've repaired everything from commercial air compressors, to cracked engine manifolds, including turbos - both exhaust and intake in cast iron and aluminum - to eye glasses. I figure if it can withstand the expansion and contraction of metal in a compressor or exhaust manifold, the sheer strength would be solid enough for a rifle. Provided you rough up the surfaces somewhat before being put together. The only thing I have seen JB weld NOT work on is the plastic tanks on aluminum radiators. There's just too much expansion and contraction there for the bond to the plastic to last.
 
I used JB to bed a few rifles. So far I haven't had any of the JB break loose or chip off, and I've removed the actions from the stocks a couple times since. One is a 30-06 in a cheap Ramline stock. A little sanding before is all I did to prep the surface. I've shot the gun in the heat of summer and cold of winter, at times until the barrel was plenty warm. And as others have said a judicious application of heat is all it takes to remove epoxy, I prefer an old soldering iron.
 
As posted elsewhere, re Front Sight modification:

Go get some JB-Weld "SteelStik"
http://www.jbweld.com/products/steel...xy-putty-stick

- Clean the top of the sight w/ alcohol or acetone(nail polish remover).
- Mash up a slice of the SteelStik until uniform gray color
- Roll a thin piece of the mixed epoxy into a small tube and lay/press it onto the sight top edge. Let it relax/harden overnight
- Next day file the sides flush w/ the sight sides, and then re-file the top edge to desired height.

You will not believe how tough that material is. It's now served to permanently raise the sight
on my Russian S&W #3 New model by more than a 1/10th of an inch -- and takes a lot of abuse.




Incidentally.... Take a magnet and watch it stick to the tube of JBWeld epoxy (as apart from the hardener). Those steel filings and that magnet can suck unhardened JBWeld into some very hard-to-access places.
 
I once used JB Weld to fill in the rust pits on the outside of the barrel on a 7mm Mauser that had been cheaply sporterised. I glass bead blasted it before and then afterward painted it with self etching motorcycle exhaust paint. I shot a box of ammo though it and it didn't fall out or hurt the accuracy...

I can't imagine using it for anything structural on a gun...

Tony
 
The only gun tinkering use I've found for JB Weld is for filling in the void left between the barrels on cut down double barrel shotguns. For that it works like gangbusters provided you roughen (maybe 120 grit) and degrease the interior surfaces.
 
Most JB Weld has steel, not aluminum in it. But there are several variants.

In most applications, it is stronger than an epoxy. Provided the surfaces are cleaned and then etched or abraded. No, it is not as strong as steel, nor a steel weld, but it does perform well in many applications. 500F and 3900 psi are the ratings, and having tested it, those are pretty close.

For a barrel shroud, it should be just fine.
 
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