JB Weld release agent

J

John E.B. Rawton

New member
I eventually want to set the spacers that I’ve shaped for my uberti revolvers that have short cylinder pins with jb weld.
Does anyone have experience in doing it this way and what do you use as a release agent so as not to get the pin stuck in the barrel?
 
I have no experience in what you are doing but I have used JB Weld to bed rifles. I used Johnsons paste wax. You can also look at retailers that have rifle bedding supplies and buy a release agent.
 
My release agent when using JB Weld to custom fit bullet seating stems to a bullet nose is a light grease . Vaseline aka Petroleum Jelly , has kept the bullet from adhering to the epoxy in the seating stem.
I tried paste wax.....that doesn't work as well as petroleum jelly .
Gary
 
gwpercle said:
My release agent when using JB Weld to custom fit bullet seating stems to a bullet nose is a light grease . Vaseline aka Petroleum Jelly , has kept the bullet from adhering to the epoxy in the seating stem.
I tried paste wax.....that doesn't work as well as petroleum jelly .
Gary
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I Agree, Vaseline is best, there's something in JB Weld that causes it to adhere to most any surface except oily surfaces. I've tried shoe polish and bullet wax either of which works fine with Acra Glass and putty style epoxies but not JB Weld.
 
I’ve not heard of anyone making a new cylinder/arbor pin for the uberti. That would definitly be the way to go if a machine shop was at hand. Most of the reading I’ve done suggested a spacer in the arbor hole.
 
No. I am placing a steel spacer in the cylinder pin hole drilled in the barrel so that when I assemble the gun and insert the wedge the pin bottoms out in the barrel. I just want the spacer to stay in the barrel assembly.
 
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John - I'm just a dumb graduate from a gunsmithing school. We were not permitted to use JB Weld but we fixed a lot of guns that had JB weld.

I came across one S&W center pin for a cylinder that was lengthened with JB Weld. Didn't know it until I tried to shorten it with a file. Anyway, had to turn one on a lathe and it took a very long time. Because it was so narrow, I had to feed out of only that which I was going to cut on the lathe. It had to be kept short less the pressure from the cutting bit broke the workpiece.

Just go find someone who can make you a pin. Do it once and be done with it. If it's in the white you can express blue it. Buy it from Brownell's.
 
I think we are talking about different guns. The uberti 1860, 1851 and 1847 black powder replicas have a short arbor/cylinder pin which most people fix by installing a spacer in the arbor/cylinder pin hole in the barrel so that the pin bottoms out solid when the wedge is inserted. I just want to hold the steel spacer in place so I don't loose it when disassembling it.
 
John - cylindrical piece of metal with grooves, right?

Oh well, each man must do things according to their budget, time and resources. The mfg should get it right before it leaves the factory.
 
What I do is get the shims right then wax the arbor and cover the end with cellophane. Put the barrel on with the wedge snug. When the JB is set, but before rock solid take it apart and scrape out the plastic. I like washers for shims because they get captured with JB better than a solid slug.
This process should also include making the barrel/cylinder gap correct.
 
“John - cylindrical piece of metal with grooves, right?“

These Italian replicas of colts are always short in this area.
 

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These Italian replicas of colts are always short in this area.
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Pietta gets theirs right. Uberti doesn't seem to care. All of the Uberti's are short. I think one reason Pietta wedges are so hard to remove the first time is because they drive them in tight so the first time you pick it up and cock the hammer you know the arbor fit is correct. Drive a Uberti wedge in a smidge too far and it locks it up.
 
I use JB and have for over 4 yrs. Works fine for keeping spacers in place in the arbor hole.

If you use a shim stack for "heavy hitter" Dragoons and Walkers using max loads, you can possibly get some compression of the medium. Since this past Spring, I've used a solid S.S. spacer (individually fit!) For the arbor fix. I think it's the best fix so far. 100% satisfaction!

Hint, using the wedge slot in the barrel for access, drill a shallow hole at the transition line where the wall of the arbor hole meets the (obvious) drill bit end. Drill a hole for both sides. These holes will fill with JB and anchor the spacer in place.

Oh, I use Mobile 1 grease for the release agent. (It's what I use in the action)

Mike

www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
“Hint, using the wedge slot in the barrel for access, drill a shallow hole at the transition line where the wall of the arbor hole meets the (obvious) drill bit end. Drill a hole for both sides. These holes will fill with JB and anchor the spacer in place.”

Interesting concept Mike. I have made four solid plugs, one for each of the uberti colts I’ve been working on. I’m trying to get them set up as best I can before hitting the range so taking my time with them is foremost. A little more time to add some relief holes for better purchase seems easy enough.
Thanks.
 
JEBR, the solid plug,disk, puck, spacer (still wondering what to call it. Lol!) is the way to go. I'm not a fan of brass, aluminum . . . . just steel/stainless steel. The shim stack consists of shims with epoxy in-between. Under heavy and repeated recoil, the epoxy can compress and allow cylinder/barrel contact. It only takes a .001" - .0015" of compression to close a .002" - .003" clearance. The solid spacer is already against the bottom of the arbor hole and held in place with "surrounding" epoxy (JB) with the two drilled "anchoring" holes for reinforcement. This gives solid structure for the arbor to butt against under tension.
It's easier to use a slightly "long" ( plus .003" - .004" ) spacer and then "final fit" by dressing the arbor to close in on the clearance you are wanting. Of course, dressing the arbor end will open up the wedge slot overall which may call for a new wedge. A better answer is an adjustable front bearing (flattened set screw located in the arbor that protrudes into the slot) for the wedge and just keep the one you have.

Good luck.
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
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