is this a good gun??

M

mordis

New member
hi. lol its mordis, i am trying to identify my revolver, it is a old smith and wesson says model 15-3 and above that some letters and numbers. id list them but i dont want to, i dont know if posting the other numbers would endanger me some how. anyways, this gun is in id say. 100% functional order, the bluing is near perfect, except on the cylnder, which i plan on rebluing, i have shot this gun and it is crazly accurate, i managed, sub 1.75" groups at 10 yards(not alot but its good to practice at gun fight distances.).

What i would like to know is, a. is it still strong enough to handle defensive ammo, and b. would i be a moron if i ever one day, felt the urge to strap it on and ccw it.(even tho it has i think a 3 inch barrel.).
 
It's probably a 4" barrel. Measure from the front of the cylinder, not the front of the frame. The Model 15 was the issued sidearm in the USAF when I joined. Carried one quite a bit. Also used by a good number of LEAs when revolvers were being carried. If it's mechanically sound you won't hurt it shooting any factory loaded .38 ammo on the market.
 
The 15-3 is also known as the Combat Masterpiece and is a fine revolver.
A steady diet of +P+ might loosen it up sooner or later, but it should handle it just fine for CCW. As for the 3" barrel, are you measuring from the front of the frame or the front of the cylinder? They are listed as being in 2", 4", 6" & 8 3/8", but not 3". You should measure from the front of the cylinder.
If you want to know its approximate age you can post a partial serial # from the bottom of the butt. (i.e. 123,4xx)


Dean
 
An excellent 38 Special revolver. There were some agencies that were restricted to ONLY 38 Special. S&W responded by first making the M15, the M67 as the stainless steel version and then the M68 for the CHP. They are all fine weapons. I suggest a set of Butler Creek boot grips for CCW. I have installed Millets RWO rear target sight on mine too. I hope someday to find a M18 to pair mine with. 22 rf for practice and the 38 Special for summer carry as primary with a 2" M10 BUG.
 
here are some of the numbers off the bottem, k9xx502, im sorry if i left out anything important, with todays world you cant be to carefull with your serial numbers.
 
1969 production ended with K946391. 1970 used the remaining numbers in the Kxxxxxx range. So your gun falls in one of these years.

Dean
 
The Model 15-3 is a Combat Mastepiece, or K-38 as it is sometimes called. I have 2 of these, I purchased them in 1977, and they are fine shooters, great trigger out of the box, and very accurate . They also have hardened triggers, and hammers.. They will handle +p , but I won't advise a steady diet of +p ammo. Enjoy them, I shoot mine often.
 
well. im quickly falling in love with my combat masterpeice, You say i can handle +p. well considering its age, i prolly not gonna fit it with +p, can anyone suggest some good selfdefence ammo that i can put into it, and fire with out having to worry much bout it, exploding or other fun stuff.

My other question is, would it be possible to put a Crimson trace grip on it, that would be great if i could lol.
 
My K38, the predecessor to the Model 15 is my favorite shootin' revolver.
If you can conceal it, and there is little reason why not, it will make a fine carry gun. Mine is crazy accurate as well, with the absolute best trigger I have ever felt on a wheelgun (and I've shot a few).

On a wheelgun you don't really have to check function with this that or the other ammo as much as with a slide gun. Run a cylinder of +P through it, whatever you plan to carry, just to make sure the rims don't hang up the cylinder or something outlandish like that. Then practice with Winchester White Box. Carry it with +P JHP carry ammo. This is how I do my little Model 38. I figure in a crisis, I won't be noticing the increased recoil from the +P.

Here's my K38.
SmithWessonK38.jpg


I think Crimson Trace does make a K frame grip, LG207 and LG307. I like Hogue grips though.
 
thats exactly what my gun looks like. cept mine is a a k913xxx model number so i think it was made just before 1970, and my grips have a little mettal circle of s&w on the grips near the cylder release button.

One thing that is concerning me, is i havnt shot this gun in a very long time, havnt cleaned it or oiled it either, and im noticing that with a full cylnder of empty brass, it is getting hard to eject them, maybe its from not cleaning it in a long time, or what not. im gonna run a therough cleaning regiment through it this weekend, im hoping the cylnder bores arnt off, or to narrow, i once owned a commanche .357 with a 4inch barrel, cheap spanish made crapola, and i had a hell of a time ejecting brass, i found out, that my cylnders measured .311 accross, and some of them wernt machined straight, lol. i hope a good cleaning, and oiling will fix the problem im having now.
 
My M15 is my favorite S&W revolver. Can't really miss with it and it is in BRAND NEW condition. I wouldn't mind a few more......
 
Mordis: Warning!!

gun isn't worth much, is very dangerous... could even kill someone. You need to get rid of it quick! I'll be generous and give you $50 for it.

(Hey, somebody had to jump in with a joke.)

Very, very nice gun. I have a model 19 which is probably very close to the same in 357.... will never let it go. Keep it.
 
ill definatly keep it. Im taking it to a Gunsmith tommorow after i clean it and oil it and having him give it a good run through to check its condition, and have the cylnders measured to see if there gapped correctly, i would hate to have a nother .311 . god that was annoying, But on a funner note, my father inlaw who has the offending commanche .357, which is actually .311 has managed to make custom rounds for it.
 
seems like I read

somewhere about a problem of build up in a 357 when you shoot 38"s in it.

I doubt you really have a serious problem with a smith and wesson... could be the brass or something. I've had shells on revolvers that were a mother to kick out at times....

I'm sure there are enough experts on this list who can help with suggestions. Taking it to a good smith is probably the best idea.
 
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