Is it bad to shoot .38sp thru a .357?
- Thread starter ultrastar
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Prodigalshooter
New member
No problem at all. There is the possiblity that after many rounds of .38s that there will be a bit of buildup in the cylinders where the case ends, making it difficult to chamber .357 rounds. But, keeping the cylinder very clean will solve this problem before it starts. The nice thing about using .38s in the .357, is that you have much less flash/bang/recoil, which usually makes for a bit more accurate (and pleasant) shooting. There are plenty of different .38 and .38+P loads to choose from too.
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
I was told by a gunsmith quite a few years ago it's better not to shoot .38 specials in .357 magnum revolvers, because the slightly shorter case length can result in flash rings in the chambers. If that's true, I'd guess you'd have to shoot lots of hot loads to engender flash rings, and am not sure they'd ever amount to a problem.
Since my only surviving .38 special revolver is a snubbie reserved strictly for home defense, I load only .357 magnums, albeit almost all with <i>very</i> light .38 special target loads. When I want to shoot hotter loads--not often, given that I'm contending with computer wrist and arthritis--I just shoot factory loads.
How's that for an indefinite answer?
Since my only surviving .38 special revolver is a snubbie reserved strictly for home defense, I load only .357 magnums, albeit almost all with <i>very</i> light .38 special target loads. When I want to shoot hotter loads--not often, given that I'm contending with computer wrist and arthritis--I just shoot factory loads.
How's that for an indefinite answer?
Brian Williams
New member
One recommendation is that you keep a fired .357 mag case laying around or handy because that will make a nice chamber cleaner. When you are done shooting 38's just push the .357 mag case in and it will take out most of the ring of gunk....
Guy B. Meredith
New member
I shoot .38 spl almost exclusively in my 686+ and PC 627 V-Comp. This is standard fare for IPSC/ICORE. I use copper plated bullets and clean powder to eliminate that extra dirt generated by lead lube.
Seldom have problems with .357 magnum even after one or two hundred of .38 spl. When cleaning I do pay special attention to scrubbing with the bronze brush and a quick few with the helical stainless steel brush.
Seldom have problems with .357 magnum even after one or two hundred of .38 spl. When cleaning I do pay special attention to scrubbing with the bronze brush and a quick few with the helical stainless steel brush.
Depends.
New, the dedicated .38 is usually a little less money, but often not by enough to be a deciding factor. Used, a good, inexpensive .38 may be easier to find and to find cheap (like around $200).
Often people find that their .357 just isn't as accurate when they shoot .38s out of it. For best .38 accuracy (and many of us find ourselves shooting mainly .38s) you may need a dedicated .38. However, some .357s shoot .38s and .357s just as well. In my case both of my .357s (a S&W 65LS- a K-frame 3" barreled gun, and a Taurus 605- a 2" small framed snub) shoot much more accurately with .357 ammo (though with the snub .38s are much easier to shoot and to get quick follow up shots).
A dedicated .38 is probably going to be just a tad bit smaller and lighter than its equivilent .357. The cartridge on the .357 is longer than the .38 so the gun and the cylinder will be a little bit longer. Also, the .357 is (obviously) a much higher pressure round so you may find that the gun is strengthened over the .38 adding weight and possibly width.
If you are looking at small framed snubs (like the S&W J-frames) you may find the .357 to be too much out of it. If you are going to shoot only .38s you may as well save the size and weight and get a dedicated .38 (unless you find that the lighter .38 recoils too much for you and you want the added weight to control recoil).
For a first revolver I'd say get the .357 (and stay away from the snub). You may find yourself mainly shooting .38s out of it but you will have the option of shooting .357s when you're ready or when you want to. I made the mistake of buying a .38 first and really wished I had the choice of cartridges. Later you can add a dedicated .38 to the collection.
There are some very nice, fine quality old .38 guns out there that are worth owning despite being "less potent". The old Colt Detective Special is probably the best example. It weighs less than a modern S&W 5-shot .357Mag J-Frame, is often more accurate, and holds an additional round. But it's a .38.
For some, the tradeoffs are worth it. I can certainly see the appeal.
Something else that happens a lot: now that wheelguns are pretty much obsolete from the "Action Sport" shooting events, you see all sorts of old well-tuned IPSC wheelguns on the market. Some DIRT cheap for the level of enhancement and accuracy they already have. And many were set up as .38s. Stick some night sights on 'em, and they'd make wonderful carry guns
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For some, the tradeoffs are worth it. I can certainly see the appeal.
Something else that happens a lot: now that wheelguns are pretty much obsolete from the "Action Sport" shooting events, you see all sorts of old well-tuned IPSC wheelguns on the market. Some DIRT cheap for the level of enhancement and accuracy they already have. And many were set up as .38s. Stick some night sights on 'em, and they'd make wonderful carry guns
.OkieCruffler
New member
I use a .40cal tornado brush and some #9 on the chambers of my .357's after each trip to the range. No build up on mine.
Good info
You all have very good points and Chaim, weight is a factor because I do need that extra weight to help with recoil. I have shot my Star 26oz, a friends Ruger P95 27oz and my duty Beretta 34oz with better control and accuracy than my light P-11 14oz. I know a lot of people are against porting but is really that bad.
You all have very good points and Chaim, weight is a factor because I do need that extra weight to help with recoil. I have shot my Star 26oz, a friends Ruger P95 27oz and my duty Beretta 34oz with better control and accuracy than my light P-11 14oz. I know a lot of people are against porting but is really that bad.
The .38 has very light recoil so if you are going with a K-frame or other medium framed gun (best for a general purpose revolver, small enough to carry, big enough to be very comfortable and accurate) the extra weight of a .357 won't be much of a factor when shooting .38s. If you are getting a snub and you are recoil sensitive (I'd suggest not getting a snub in that case) you will certainly need the extra weight of a .357. Depending upon how recoil sensitive you are you may want to consider a dedicated .38. No use getting a .357 if you'll never shoot .357s out of it because you have no control when shooting them.
Have you had a chance to rent some .38s and .357s in the size you are considering? Also, I'd advise renting some a step up and down in size from what you're considering to see if you like another option better.
Chaim, I have shot a friends .38 and it wasn't bad (it had a 4" bbl) but I'm looking at a snub for a ccw. I probably won't shoot the .357 so a .38 would be more logical. The Windicator looked good on paper for me (the right size for ccw, good weight for recoil reduction and the price). I didn't realize until the other day that 4" bbl revo was that much bigger (or at least seemed bigger) than an 4" semi-auto and snub would fit the bill better.