Is 9mm enough to shoot through a car door or window/windshield?

T

TruthTellers

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With the recent attack at Ohio State University and the France truck attack back on Bastille Day in recent memory, what pistol cartridge is able to pass through a car door and windows and windshields to stop such an attack?

I've not done much research into which bullets do best, but I would imagine this is where .40 and larger calibers are preferred over 9mm as they retain enough penetration to reach an attackers vitals and bleed him out.
 
Premium self-sefense ammo that has passed the FBI protocol will shoot through a specified amount of intermediate barrier material (sheet metal, heavy clothing, auto glass, plywood, sheetrock) and still penetrate at least 12" into ballistic gelatin.

Here's a description of the testing protocol.
http://www.brassfetcher.com/FBI Ammunition Protocol/FBI Ammunition Protocol.html

There are a number of 9mm premium self-defense loadings that meet the FBI standard.
 
Auto Glass is the most challenging tactical barrier by far. It is a hard and very strong material that universally deforms the handgun bullets that pass through it. No conventional hollowpoint can expand after passing through the glass because the tip is far too damaged from the impact. The best that can be hoped for in terms of performance is that the chunk of metal coming through can travel 12.0” or deeper in the ballistic gelatin that sits beyond the glass.
Click to expand...

Sounds like .40, 10mm, and .45 territory here.
 
Since the FBI recently switched from .40S&W to 9mm, we can reasonably assume that it also "sounds like 9mm territory"--at least to the FBI who came up with the testing protocol in the first place.

There are a number of 9mm premium self-defense loadings that meet the FBI standard.
 
You can easily push a knife through the very thin metal of today's cars... no problem for any decent round of almost any caliber to go through a car door and continue on to perform more or less as expected.

Windshields are indeed a tougher barrier to break through without deflecting off in another direction. Heavier weight bullets do have an advantage in busting through bone and windshields with less likelihood of deflecting than lighter bullets.

I would have more confidence in a 180 gr .40S&W bullet or a 230 gr .45auto bullet in performing through a windshield than I would in a lighter weight bullet from a 9mm.
 
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Windshields are constructed much heavier than side windows ! Remember this also for rescue - a automatic center punch is my choice , lower corners of the window should be used.
Barnes type bullets are known for good performance through glass and sheet metal.
 
Depends on the bullet you are using. Some will others won't. Do your research. Penetration vs expansion is a constant struggle to find the best all around bullets. I know some people who use one bullet for summer and a different one for winter because of penetrating qualities. Good luck let us know how what direction you go

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If I recall correctly from the various testing I've see the most certain way to get through the glass in any caliber is to shoot the same area multiple times.

Everything got through fine, but the heavier (.45) and faster (.357 sig) got through more ... straightly...
 
This summer we attended a jello shoot put on by Hornady. Used all barriers, including auto glass. When using quality ammunition, there is little difference between 9mm, .40, and .45. Years ago it was an issue, but times have changed.
 
A former North Carolina State Bureau of Investigation agent referred me to 357 Sig for car windows.

I keep one in my truck.

But, I have never used it on anything but targets so I have no personal experience.
 
The 38 super and later 357 magnum were introduced because 45 ACP and 38 special rounds weren't getting the job done when shooting at cars. The military concluded in 1946 that 9mm out performed 45 ACP by a considerable margin at penetrating steel GI helmets. I'd not be too concerned about modern 9mm bullets working just fine.
 
.380, 9mm, .40, .45, .357 will all wizz through car doors like it aint even there. Windshield glass,puts up more of a fight but not much.
 
Extremelylittle experience but...

I normally carry a J[frame with 140gr XTP .38Spl., load but after a situation where I was crossing a parking lot when I noticed a late model Lincoln keeping
its hood ornament on me, [ wife and sister-in-law behind and to my left], with no cover. got to one double parking lane from and I rotated to my right, the Lincoln rotated to it right.

Had it stayed on me, it was drawing time.

From that time on I'm carry either a 4" revolver [.38 Spl. or .357 Mag] or a 124 gr 9MM / 230gr 45ACP. [ all XTP's]
 
A 9mm can penetrate a windshield, but there are factors that may cause the bullets not to penetrate the glass such as the angle the bullet strikes, the weight of the bullet and velocity. The angle becomes important especially if you are shooting from inside the vehicle and the glass has a severe angle.
 
I haven't shot many cars but watching you tube videos show 9mm going through windshield. you know if it is on the internet it has to be true.
 
I have been to a fair number of shoots where cars were the target. (Static, non moving, legally provided, safe etc.). I am not a LEOGSG9OPDETACHDELTABLAB LAH and have not been a scout for many years.

That being said in my very limited, anecdotal experience heavier or super fast rounds do better against cars. .40, .357sig, .357 Maggie seem to shine in their s regard with .45 coming in next and 9mm trailing third. .380 is a non starter for me.

Again anecdotal and I wasn't pumping high dollar high tech defensive ammo into them either. Just sharing my anecdotal observations.

I have never......and I am ashamed to admit this........run any 10mm into a car. I have done so with .41 magnum and it does well enough.

Mostly I didn't want to run 10mm for the fear of Hiroshima like collateral damage. :p
 
Car door shouldn't be a problem unless the window is down. Or if you hit a metal beam reinforcing the door.

9mm should also punch right through a windshield, but it will be deflected considerably (down?) because the windshield is slanted. You might penetrate just fine and still miss.

The back or side window is a better target. (first shot shatters the window, giving you a clear shot for your follow-up) If you have a clean shot at the windshield, get out of the way! Even if you do manage to shoot the driver, he's still going to run you over.
 
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