IOR Scope on a Weatherby .257 WM problems

Sgt. Mike

New member
I have a Weatherby Mark V, in .257 Weatherby Magnum, heavy barrel and I want to put an IOR Scope on it. The IOR is 35mm and has Weaver/Picatinny(SP) rings. The problem is when I mount the scope to the gun I am unable to get the cross hair to center, either height or horizontally.

I just ordered an EGW 20 M.O.A. mount to try but that won't help with the horizontal movement. All help and little tricks would be appreciated. Thanks, Michael
 
You aren't really clear explaining what your problem actually is.... Is the reticle not centered in the scope? Or are you unable to zero the rifle?

I haven't bought an IOR in a couple of years, and I thought that all the 35mm scopes were image centering, but you will need to to consult your manual.

Jimro
 
IOR Scope

This has nothing to do with the actual firing of a round at a target. The reticle is centered but when using a bore sight I do not have enough left/right and up/down in the scope to get the bore sight to line up with the center of the reticle. I hope that explains things a bit better. Thanks for helping. Michael
 
What kind of bore sight are you using? I have a laser bore sight that you stuck in the end of the barrel, I hate it. I’ve had the same problems you are describing when I used it on a few of my rifles. The o-rings to match the size of my bore never would stay put and would throw the laser off.

I just put the rifles in a vise now pull the bolt and line the bore up with a target at 25-50 yards and adjust my scope to match. This process works better than using the laser bore sight that I own to get my scopes on target. I still use my laser but only on rifles that I can’t remove the bolt to sight down, like my Savage 99 or my H&R and T/C single shots. I’m still about 50/50 with getting my first shot on paper at 25 yards with the laser bore sight.
 
You wouldn't be using the 3-18 variable scope would you? If so the adjustment for vertical is offset in that scope to allow 308 shooters to get to 1k using a 20 moa base.

And as you get to the extremes of either elevation or windage, you cut down on the opposite adjustment. A scope is a tube within a tube, you get either maximum windage or elevation when the inner tube is perfectly centerred. But if you adjust for elevation all the way, you can't adjust windage left or right very much without running into the outer tube.

The first thing to do is to mechanically zero the scope. Adjust the vertical all the way to top or bottom, then count the clicks to get to the other extreme. Then go back half that number of clicks. Do the same with the windage. After that the scope is mechanically zeroed.

When the scope is mechanically zeroed, and you are boresighting, use a 1/4" graph paper at 25 yards to see the difference between the rifles boresight and the scopes mechanical zero. The number of squares will tell you in MOA how much adjustment you need to make the two meet up. I wouldn't be surprised if the 20 MOA base solves your problems.

Jimro
 
First if you are using a bore-sighting tool of any kind do yourself a favor and trash it, I don't know of anyone that has had success with those things.

Second you need to reset your scope adjustments back to zero/factory default.
Do this by turning them in one direction until they stop now turn back the opposite direction and count the clicks until it stops again write down the number of clicks divide that by two and turn back again you should now be back at zero/factory default.

Now assuming you mounted the scope correctly you should be on paper at 25 yds. Shoot it at 25 yds and then adjust the scope to hit about an inch low at 25 and you will be pretty close to dead on at 100yds with most ammo. Then fine tune at 100yds or what ever range you want it zeroed at.
 
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I wouldn't say there's a problem with using a bore spud laser. Some are better than others but using one under 50' may not be the best. Using a mark @100 yards works better if you can see it. My concern is whether the bases on the rifle are actually the correct ones. I've found incorrect bases in correctly marked packages more than once. Are you using one or two piece bases? I'm assuming you had the rings set right on the base and nothing was interferring with the fit.
 
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