I bought a used DCM legal Krieger barrel second hand, and the previous owner did not include a gas block.
I tried Sporter Express in Elizabethtown,KY, but the armorer their said that he couldn't do anything, and so now I'm thinking about the steps needed to fit a front sight block to a drilled and tapered barrel and still maintain a DCM legal appearance.
I wish I had a milling machine, because that would make this job a piece of cake. Unfortunately I don't, I have a drill press and normal set of hand tools.
Here is what I have so far.
First, measure the tapered holes in the barrel to see if they are parallel and record the dimension from the shoulder of the HBAR profile.
Second, index the new FSB onto the barrel and mark both using permanent marker.
Third, while the the FSB is indexed, use a marking awl to put a divot on the larger side.
Fourth, remove the FSB from the barrel, and drill into the side for the larger taper for both pins. This hole will be larger than the taper pin.
Fifth, put the FSB back on the barrel, indexed to our mark.
Sixth, drill through the FSB, use the taper reamer to cut the taper just a hair more, install taper pins. The thin end will mechanically lock the FSB in place.
Seventh, use a filling agent around the larger head of the pins for cosmetic uniformity. The filling agent can be pretty permanent since this is going to be a competition rifle, and the next time the FSB comes off it will be because the barrel is shot out (a few seasons down the road to be sure).
Are there any gunsmiths or machinists who see any problems with this plan?
Jimro
I tried Sporter Express in Elizabethtown,KY, but the armorer their said that he couldn't do anything, and so now I'm thinking about the steps needed to fit a front sight block to a drilled and tapered barrel and still maintain a DCM legal appearance.
I wish I had a milling machine, because that would make this job a piece of cake. Unfortunately I don't, I have a drill press and normal set of hand tools.
Here is what I have so far.
First, measure the tapered holes in the barrel to see if they are parallel and record the dimension from the shoulder of the HBAR profile.
Second, index the new FSB onto the barrel and mark both using permanent marker.
Third, while the the FSB is indexed, use a marking awl to put a divot on the larger side.
Fourth, remove the FSB from the barrel, and drill into the side for the larger taper for both pins. This hole will be larger than the taper pin.
Fifth, put the FSB back on the barrel, indexed to our mark.
Sixth, drill through the FSB, use the taper reamer to cut the taper just a hair more, install taper pins. The thin end will mechanically lock the FSB in place.
Seventh, use a filling agent around the larger head of the pins for cosmetic uniformity. The filling agent can be pretty permanent since this is going to be a competition rifle, and the next time the FSB comes off it will be because the barrel is shot out (a few seasons down the road to be sure).
Are there any gunsmiths or machinists who see any problems with this plan?
Jimro