Inspecting Used Rifles

Clevinger

New member
I have a wandering eye, and I am interested in a used Sako.

I also would like to improve my skills inspecting used rifles. I am particularly interested in signs of wear to the rifling (avoiding "shot a lot and shot hot" guns).

Any input or tips on inspecting used rifles? Better yet, any pictures of subtle signs you can get burned on?:confused:
 
It's hard to see if the bore is washed out without a bore scope. I would check the bolt face for pitting, crown should be sharp, with no dings. Check the basic operation, safety check on the trigger & overall condition of the rifle will give you a good idea how the owner took care of the rifle. Hope I helped in some way, Good luck. Chris
 
As far as "shot out", shine a light from the muzzle and look at the barrel immediately in front of the chamber. If the barrel is shiny but the leade is gray for over maybe 1/16th of an inch, it might be on the verge of losing tight-group accuracy.

But I'll defer to anybody who's seen more "burn jobs" than I. :)
 
I doubt if you'll ever see any "hunting" rifles that have been shot enough to worry about the barrel being shot out, especially in big game calibers. On a rifle that has been used for a lot of varmint or target shooting it is more likely.
 
Remove the bolt and look through the bore. If it's clean you may be able to see wear or damage.

If the shop does not have a rod you might get yours in the car.

For guns without a removable bolt a bright piece of paper or cloth in the action will shine some.

There is a handy little borescope that was made. It has a brass tube. Shop for one.

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Barrel-Rings

I have always thought I was pretty savvy about my inspection of used rifles until I got bit by not one, but two barrel-rings. .... ;)

For starters, look from breech to muzzle, along the outside of barrel with muzzle pointed at a light or sky. If you can see what looks like a bulge, rotate the barrel and see is you can still make it out. You can also dab a little oil on the barrel and lightly pinch and slide your fingers, along the barrel. Again, from breech to muzzle, look down the bore and see if you can see a dark band or ring. .... ;)

No one likes surprises, especially one that you find when you run a firm cleaning patch down the bore and it gets loose in a particular area. .... :eek:

Be Safe !!!
 
As far as "shot out", shine a light from the muzzle and look at the barrel immediately in front of the chamber. If the barrel is shiny but the leade is gray for over maybe 1/16th of an inch, it might be on the verge of losing tight-group accuracy.

Leade?

Forgive me, I should probably know this.
 
I doubt if you'll ever see any "hunting" rifles that have been shot enough to worry about the barrel being shot out, especially in big game calibers. On a rifle that has been used for a lot of varmint or target shooting it is more likely.

Agree, as far as playing the odds.

What worries me is that I would like a 243 or 308 in a Sako Forester, and I've heard some of the 243s especially that are on the used market have been shot out (thus, the reason to sell them).
 
Leade = the freebore/forcing cone at the beginning of the rifling. It's subject to the highest temperatures. Burning = erosion, eventually allowing a bullet to enter the main part of the barrel sorta catty-wampus. :)

To use a scientifically precise term...
 
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