I didn’t mention earlier that I am a hobbiest woodworker. Been doing it for decades. Like O’Heir said, the finish I put on walnut furniture is the same stuff I use on gun stocks. Since I use so many finishes, gathered over time, the best one is tough to say. The Minwax Antique Oil was recommended to me by my mentor, who taught high school woodshop for 35 years. It is easy to use and it dries fast. It’s a wiping varnish type blend, like Watco Danish Oil. The last couple of years, I’ve used the Danish Oil and Antique Oil about equally. I think, based on use, that the Danish Oil might be a slightly harder finish, but it’s slow to dry and I don’t think the final finish looks quite as good as the Minwax. I made the youngest granddaughter a Shaker style 4 poster (octagonal pencil posts) and used the Antique Oil - many coats- and it looks terrific. All that said, I didn’t know how those wiping varnishes would work outdoors in wet weather. At best, they work Ok. They sure do look good, but I wipe the water off and I haven’t had any water spotting.
What I am not going to use again is BLO or Tung Oil. I will say that if you take 90 days or more to apply a hand rubbed BLO finish, it can be truly beautiful, but it’s really hard work. And it needs maintenance from time to time, and I don’t feel like working that hard. But...if you just have to do a hand rubbed BLO finish, find a copy of The Shotgunner’s Book, by Colonel Charles Askins. The details are on pages 60 through 65. Do it that way.
These days I’m using the Waterlox Original, which contains Tung Oil. It’s a complex material. Goes on easy. I got that stuff from a pro woodworker that I know. He sells little tables for $6000. I just had to ask what that lovely finish was, and he told me he uses the Waterlox, but the first coat is Watco Danish Oil as a sealer. I’ve used it on all sorts of walnut stuff I’ve made, and in doing some research on the Waterlox, lots of people were using it on gunstocks. So I tried it. Looks great and has been durable. Supposedly it’s easy to repair, since each layer melts into previous layers and leaves no witness lines. I have not repaired anything yet, so I can’t confirm that it’s easy to repair.
Is it as good or better than TruOil? I don’t know, since I don’t use TruOil on furniture. Suppose I could though...