Inert rounds for snap caps?

Palmetto-Pride

New member
So does anyone just make inert rounds for snap caps I don't see any reason to pay $12-$15 for one round when I could make one for less than 10 cent. BTW by inert round I mean a re sized case, spent primer, and new bullet seated.
 
Baaaaad idea! Way to easy to carelessly get the wrong round resulting in a negligent discharge. Some sort of material, in a color that is obviously not a live round is a much better choice!
I'll take a couple bucks spent, and from what I've seen less than half the $12-15 you mentioned, over a potential ND any day.
But with other than rimfire, older guns, and some that the maker says not to dry fire I don't really bother. With most modern guns today dry firing isn't a problem. It's even required in order to field strip some.
 
I have made snap caps using sized cases. But please, no spent primers, put a small red Delrin or rubber rod into the primer pocket.
 
"snap caps" have a firing pin protection feature. That's the "snap cap" part. Dummy round is a different thing.
 
The only centerfire rifles that need snap caps are doubles. All the others are not harmed by dry firing them.

If you think snap caps protect your bolt action rifle's firing pins, measure the force on the cap's "primer" to push it in 1/16th inch. Then compare that to your rifle's 25- to 30-pound firing pin spring's force that smacks primers.

Go to a centerfire rifle match and watch all those people dry firing their bolt action and semiauto rifles without snap caps. Same thing at a centerfire pistol match with handguns. They do that thousands of times without issues. Took a friend to a match and he asked me after the first stage why all those people were dry firing their match rifles without snap caps. He had a hard time believing no damage was done and they did it all the time. And what about all that "snapping in" that military folks did with their M1903's, M1's, M14's and M16's without snap caps?

What's the difference in bolt action firing pin impact force against its stop in the bolt with rubber pencil erasers, silicone, hot glue, Delrin or rubber rod in the case's primer pocket or nothing at all? It's easy to measure. That firing pin's traveling about 80 mph or faster.

Here's a secret most folks don't think, or even know, about. Bolt action rifle's firing pins have little, if any force on them applied when dry firing. The cocking piece on the back end of the firing pin has a dimension that stops the firing pin from going forward against any stop in the bolt. The camed extension on the cocking piece doesn't touch the bolt at its tip when its full forward. The full force of the firing pin spring slams the flat front of the cocking piece against a mating flat inside the bolt sleeve. That's the part that takes the force of the firing pin's forward impact. Strip your bolt then push the firing pin into the bolt as far as it'll go; note how far its tip sticks out from the bolt face. Then compare that to what a fully assembled bold has the tip sticking out of the bolt face in its fired condition.

The firing pin itself is not slammed into anything except a primer, or whatever's in the pocket, in a loaded round. There's no stress whatsoever on bolt action firing pin tips with empty chambers. The stress is on the cocking piece and bolt sleeve that are made to withstand dry firing; there's more metal back there to withstand the impact. If snapping in really did hurt firing pins, there would be decades long stories of people snapping in their match rifles ruining firing pins; there are none. There's more force against a hammer head driving many thousands of 16d nails through hardwood. Does that hammer head wear away?

And floating firing pins in other firearms have little stress applied to them when the arm's dry fired on an empty chamber. The most stress it has on it is when it impacts a live primer in a case.
 
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Many people make dummy rounds/snap caps to test the cycling of the gun, and to practice trigger squeeze...

As mentioned, fill the primer pocket with something...

Other materials I have seen used are trimmed rubber pencil erasers, silicone, and hot glue...
 
Ok so I didn't think about the safety issue with mistaking a live round for it, but I would like to think that I would never be that care less, but then again why temp Mr. Murphy.......lol You guys have convinced me I don't need to use them anyway.
 
Dummy rounds are not snap caps

"snap caps" have a firing pin protection feature. That's the "snap cap" part. Dummy round is a different thing.
I use both for different purposes. Dummy rounds are primarily used to check the action and cycling. I also use them for various demonstrations in the classroom where I don't want live rounds. Mine were made by Winchester and I suppose they still make them. They are made in such a way that you can't confuse them for a live round. ..... :)

Be Sure and;
Be Safe !!!
 
You don't need snap caps for any cf, but DP rounds are as you describe but without the primer and with a wee hole drilled in the case. Don't know where you'd get bullets for 10 cents each though.
 
If you have an older Smith & Wesson revolver with a hammer mounted firing pin, get snap caps.

My 1983 S&W M60 has this type of firing pin and I broke it dry firing (before I knew better). It's very hard to find replacements now.
 
I've done it in the past, usually with rifles, but I generally am already purchasing snap caps when I purchase a new caliber. It's a small expense.
I would put a black marker X across the back with a sharpie before I used a spent cartridge.
 
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