Indian Brown Bess

4

4V50 Gary

Staff
For the past two weeks, I've been working on one of those Indian made Brown Bess.

The geometry of the sear/tumbler was not right and about half the time the trigger was pressed, the cock would fall on the sear's half cock notch. To solve it, a bead was TIG welded on the sear/tumbler and after filing the bead down, it worked.

The wood stock around the tang had a slight crack, suggesting that it wasn't inletted properly. So I put a drop of super glue down the wood to stabilize it. After puttying up the holes and dipping the metal into release agent, some gel Acra-glass and put some dark brown coloring into it was applied to the stock so as to rebed the tang and breechplug region.

The entire gun was disassembled and the brass polished with Brasso. While shiny, some spots were forming on the barrel so it was buffed on the buffing wheel to clean it up. As imported, the hammer/battery/steel was rough and unpolished. 80, 120, 180, 220, 320 emery paper was progressively used on it and removed most of the file marks. It was then buffed to a glossy finish to match the rest of the lock. The exposed metals (barrel, brass) then had Renaissance Wax applied and buffed on to protect it.
 
Should I TIGG both; Tumbler and Sear

For the past two weeks, I've been working on one of those Indian made Brown Bess.
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All of which contributes to a learning experience. I have run into similar problems but never on one firearm. The pay-back and personal satisfaction, will come when you punch the paper. .... ;)

To solve it, a bead was TIG welded on the sear/tumbler and after filing the bead down, it worked
Click to expand...
Now here is an unresolved problem that I am currently facing, on an older Seneca. Basically she is a beauty but the tumbler is worn to a point of not holding at full-cock. I can see that the contact area on the tumbler is worn and trying to find a replacement tumbler is almost impossible. You state that you TIGGED the tumbler as well as the sear. I was thinking that all I have to do, is tig the worn area, on the tumbler. Please share your thoughts with me on this one. .. :confused:

Be Safe !!!
 
My bad

Sorry, not the sear but just the tumbler.

I built up the area of the tumbler such that the sear could not simply drop into the tumbler's safety notch.
 
not all india muskets are created equal ive noticed. I have two a Brown Bess Ranger musket and a Charleville both purchased from a vender that stands behind what he sells. having said that they are what they are an inexpensive musket that's more like an in the white kit than a pedersoli . but hey only cost half as much. as long as you are willing to do the work and enjoy it. you can have a good time and end up with a nice gun . my ranger Bess I converted to a metal ramrod and I had Earl Kathan at Flintlock Repair tune the lock he does excellent work he also shortened my charleville 6" to make a skirmishers musket. he is an excellent Black powder gunsmith cant recommend him high enough. he sells india muskets also and they are very nice he goes through them to make sure they are right . no I haven't purchased one of his muskets . he just works on mine:)
 
Update

Renaissance Wax was applied after it was polished. Use 1/8 round stock to replace two missing barrel pins (must have lost it in the ultrasonic cleaner). They were slightly too thick and were put into a drill press, spun with a piece of emery paper to slim them down a bit. After polishing, they were inserted into the stock and driven through to the other side.
 
so do you plan on firing your Brown Bess . got a ball and powder charge in mind with maybe a patch . a paper cartridge perhaps ;)
 
No plans to fire it at all. It was brought to school as a repair project and had more work done than anticipated. I'm concurrently working on a Markwell Arms 45 caliber round ball rifle. A rib was soldered onto the barrel and a pewter nose cap poured for it. The stock may need refinishing and two timbles/pipes made. I may cheat and use 38 Special cases and just cut off the base. :p
 
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