filthysavage
Moderator
I worked on my 110 trigger and got it down to 2.5 lbs.My question is:If I replace the trigger pull spring with a lighter(.0 40) one can I get the pull down even more ?? How safe can the stock trigger be adjusted ?
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Improving Savage 110 trigger
- Thread starter filthysavage
- Start date
hoghunting
New member
You've safely hit the lower limit on the factory trigger. I did the same thing and replaced the spring with different sizes of spring wire, and the trigger didn't always reset. I finally stopped and put the factory spring back in and haven't had any problems since.
I worked one down below 3 lbs (this is not the Accutrigger, but the pre-Accurtrigger mechanism you still see on the Stevens rifles), including puting in the Rifle Basix trigger, only to have it fire a round on closing the bolt (pointed downrange, of course). A friend of mine got the same result working down the factory trigger. You'll need a complete aftermarket trigger mechanism (all springs and levers and housing; not just the trigger itself) to get it any lower.
Sharp Shooter Supply has them that go down to 2 oz. for benchrest. I've purchased from them before with no problems. In addition to the new 2 oz trigger, they have some less expensive ones for more normal pull ranges. Click on the Triggers link on the left side of the home page.
Sharp Shooter Supply has them that go down to 2 oz. for benchrest. I've purchased from them before with no problems. In addition to the new 2 oz trigger, they have some less expensive ones for more normal pull ranges. Click on the Triggers link on the left side of the home page.
filthysavage
Moderator
Unclenick
I like the Savage 110 action but dont like the bolt.Rather poor design.Is it worth spending $100.00 for a trigger ? Not in my opinion.
I like the Savage 110 action but dont like the bolt.Rather poor design.Is it worth spending $100.00 for a trigger ? Not in my opinion.
M.L. McPherson claims the bolt design is part of the reason many Savages get better accuracy than more expensive guns. He based that on inherently better aligning of the bolt lugs with the receiver. I wound up spending money on the trigger and a new stock and got my 10FP down below 1/2 moa, which I felt was good enough for a tac rifle. Have also shot it that way at 1000 yards and not been disappointed.
If your concern is being able to recover the cost when you sell it, then you have a point. If your concern is to make a good shooter, then I think it is worth it, though the importance of the trigger varies with the shooter. Some guys can shoot a bad trigger fairly well, while others cannot. Some of that seems to be affected by how your hands and frame are shaped and not just skill level. It is an individual thing.
If your concern is being able to recover the cost when you sell it, then you have a point. If your concern is to make a good shooter, then I think it is worth it, though the importance of the trigger varies with the shooter. Some guys can shoot a bad trigger fairly well, while others cannot. Some of that seems to be affected by how your hands and frame are shaped and not just skill level. It is an individual thing.
filthysavage
Moderator
Sorry but poor lock time and bad design just dont cut it.Savage is fine for the budget concious...but seasoned shooters know what works and waht doesnt.
I don't know where your information is coming from? Current Savage production has about the shortest lock time in the industry, AFAIK. It runs around 1.6 ms in the 10ML II, and more like 1.7 ms in the current 10/110's. My instruments show more like 1.8 ms to 1.9 ms on my 9 year-old pre-Accutrigger 10 FP, but that still beats the 2.9 ms on my Remington, which once was held to have the fastest commercial lock time. I don't know the age of your 110, but the fact the trigger is hard to lower the drop weight on indicates it also has the strong springs responsible for those short lock times in current production. The 110's were known for tight tolerances and if you get dirt in the firing pin tunnel or around the sear cocking indicator, you can get longer lock times. Another factor believed to contribute to that was sear drag. The trigger I suggested to you eliminates that.
Savage's reputation for best out-of-box production rifle accuracy is earned. The company is very accuracy conscious and keeps making improvements and has, in my opinion, done great service to the shooting sports by making F-class and Palma guns available that allow entry into those disciplines by many folks who were previously discouraged by cost.
As Kiwi98J posting on TheHighRoad in 2006 put it, when comparing purchasing a Savage to a Remington:
I expect I fall fairly solidly into the category of seasoned shooters at this point in my life, and I find the Savage quite satisfactory. I have to point out that lots of old Mausers and other guns are out there with long lock times that are still shot quite successfully on a regular basis. As with the internal hammer service rifles, which are not exactly lock time speed demons, the trick is to learn follow-through. I carried an M1A through Gunsite's 270 class and my pre-Accutrigger 10FP (still without the new trigger mechanism at the time) through their PR1 class and won the shoot off's at the ends of both classes, despite shooting against RWS and Sako and several other quality actions.
But if you still don't like the Savage design, for whatever reason, you're right not to spend money improving its potential. Timney and Jewel made there businesses on the fact the best possible trigger doesn't come from the factory on any production rifle. I don't see why the older Savages, in particular, would be any different in that regard? There is no free lunch.
Savage's reputation for best out-of-box production rifle accuracy is earned. The company is very accuracy conscious and keeps making improvements and has, in my opinion, done great service to the shooting sports by making F-class and Palma guns available that allow entry into those disciplines by many folks who were previously discouraged by cost.
As Kiwi98J posting on TheHighRoad in 2006 put it, when comparing purchasing a Savage to a Remington:
"Savage - Faster lock time, self centering bolthead, full contact locking lugs, adjustable headspace to my dies, button rifled barrel, recoil lug indexed to action and owner interchangeable barrels and boltheads. If Savage would improve chamber porting, machine the bolt raceways instead of broaching and lap the barrel, I'd truly be happy.
Remington - lipstick and rouge and another trip to the smith with a wad of cash to set headspace to my dies, center the bolthead, get full locking lug contact and change a barrel. But, man are they smooth and that hammer forged barrel doesn’t copper and my ‘smith loves me."
Remington - lipstick and rouge and another trip to the smith with a wad of cash to set headspace to my dies, center the bolthead, get full locking lug contact and change a barrel. But, man are they smooth and that hammer forged barrel doesn’t copper and my ‘smith loves me."
I expect I fall fairly solidly into the category of seasoned shooters at this point in my life, and I find the Savage quite satisfactory. I have to point out that lots of old Mausers and other guns are out there with long lock times that are still shot quite successfully on a regular basis. As with the internal hammer service rifles, which are not exactly lock time speed demons, the trick is to learn follow-through. I carried an M1A through Gunsite's 270 class and my pre-Accutrigger 10FP (still without the new trigger mechanism at the time) through their PR1 class and won the shoot off's at the ends of both classes, despite shooting against RWS and Sako and several other quality actions.
But if you still don't like the Savage design, for whatever reason, you're right not to spend money improving its potential. Timney and Jewel made there businesses on the fact the best possible trigger doesn't come from the factory on any production rifle. I don't see why the older Savages, in particular, would be any different in that regard? There is no free lunch.