Improving A Ruger S/A Trigger

M

montelores

New member
Can someone share the details about improving a Ruger Blackhawk or Single Six trigger? Also, any other simple and worthwhile improvements while I'm at it. This will be my first time, so please keep it simple.

What special tools and parts (springs, etc.)are required?

Thank you -

Monty
 
The sad reality of Ruger SA triggers is that they have a lot of creep (most do anyway). While changing springs will lighten the pull the creep will still be there. If the hammer is modified to remove the creep the trigger will have less travel which will mean the transfer bar will also have less travel. Many Ruger SA revolvers that have been given a nice trigger job with the creep removed will only allow the transfer bar to rise enough to barely cover the firing pin and transfer the hammer strike to it. Some smiths will weld up the transfer bar to make it long enough or make a completely new one. Obtaining a crisp creep free trigger on a Ruger would be much simpler if not for the transfer bar function.
 
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Take out all the parts and 'em with jeweller's rouge on a cloth wheel in a bench grinder or drill press and change the springs. No files or stones. Too easy to alter the angles.
 
Several years ago, I learned my lesson on my first Super Blackhawk trigger job. I removed too much material and the trigger was dangerous . . . the slightest touch would set it off . . . . SOOO . . . . I had to get a new trigger. On the new trigger . . . I was much more carefull and just used emery cloth and metal polish. This one turned out great . . . smooth and crisp, I don't know what the weight of the pull is, but estimate probably about 3 or 4 lbs. It's fairly easy to do . . . just don't go hog wild like I did the first time. Take out the roughness and polish, then reassemble and try it . . . if it's not yet right . . . do a little more of the same until you get it right. I have another Super Blackhawk and a Single Six that I gave trigger jobs to also. This time I'd learned my lesson and these turned out great. All three of my Ruger SAs now have excellent triggers. I've noticed lately that the triggers on the new Rugers seem to be a lot better than the ones mine came with. But I think they could still do with a little smoothing up.
 
In my opinion,if you are asking here about how to do a trigger job,go easy!!

I would not use a power anything on it.

While someone who really knows what they are doing can use hard,flat smooth stones to improve the surface finish on sear and hammer notch features,any change of angles or rounding of corners is detrimental.

At this point,I'd say do not touch the sear or hammer notches,even with a buffing wheel.
These surfaces will wear in with time,and develope a burnished,matched fit to a degree.

Now,on the flat sides of parts,where they contact the frame,etc,a floating off of high spots,just a few strokes,with a fine india or arkansas stone is good.and a barely visible corner break on non-funtional sharp edges can be stoned on,just a couple thousandths radius so its not a scraping edge.

Don't stone off low spots,that just makes a loose,worn out gun.Knock the tops off high spots.

I do not know if they are still available ,but the Trapper spring kit has worked well in my Ruger since the 70's.You can get a one step lighter hammer spring,.too.

Try that much.It won't be a Jewell trigger,but it will be much better,and safe and reliable.
 
I have replaced the trigger and hammer in two of my Rugers with the Power Custom half-cock kit. It gives you a very nice, creep free trigger pull, while also giving you a half-cock setting, with indexed loading. The parts are case-hardened, and he gives you several wolff springs in various wieghts, so you can adjust the trigger pull weight to your liking. You will have to modify the transfer bar a bit, but he gives you the instructions for that, or you can also purchase those already modified.

The kit runs about $160 in blue, but I feel the trigger pull it gives you is almost as good as a top-shelve gunsmith could do. A good gunsmith would propabably charge you close to $100 for a trigger job anyway, plus shipping both ways if a you have to go out of state.

http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=136
 
Using a buffing wheel on hammers and sears will round off the carefully stoned edges. Sears and hammers should be cut and polished with appropiate stones ONLY and at precise angles. Persons who don't understand why this is should not be working on guns. Keep in mind that the transfer bar requires enough movement to engage the firing pin. Trigger work on Rugers should be left to professional smiths. Spring changes are fine but they will not alter the trigger pull except for the weight.
 
Thank you for the warnings about mis-shaping the hammer and trigger; I am going to consider the PowerCustom modification, since that kit also comes with springs.

The kit comes with "reduced power" springs; I understand that a lighter trigger spring will give a lighter trigger pull. What will a lighter hammer spring give me? I have read that rimfires require an authoritative strike on the primer, so will the hammer be smoother or easier to cock? Will it fall at a different speed?

Thanks again,

Monty
 
Reducing the mainspring will give you a lighter trigger pull but by doing so you will also be increasing the lock time (time from sear/hammer release to ignition of primer.) Single action revolvers already have a fairly slow lock time so you don't want to go much slower. Most of the really good Ruger SA smiths I have talked to actually INCREASE the mainspring weight to gain faster lock time. The trigger pull will not be affected that much unless the hammer/sear angles are way out of spec (and Ruger's seldom are). The biggest challenge on obtaining a world class trigger on a Ruger SA is getting rid of the creep. I would run a slighter lighter trigger return spring (or bend the stock one to make it lighter) and keep the mainspring stock (or heavier). Find and stone out any burrs in the frame (there will be some) and the sides of the moving parts. Check out the Rugerforum. There are some very knowledgeable guys over there.
 
Thank you, drail. A good explanation.

I have fired a friend's S&W .22 that has such a light and smooth trigger that it takes me a shot or two to mentally adjust to its characteristics, because it really does take me by surprise. It is the smoothest trigger I have ever fired.

I don't know if that is possible or even desirable on a S/A Single-Six, so I will attack this one step at a time.

Monty
 
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