Im New to Black Powder Revolvers Need Advice

T

TX Hunter

New member
Hello,
Today I bought an Italian Black Powder Revolver from my Mothers Antique Shop.
Its not antique, just a replica, I believe its paterned after the 1851 Navy Revolver, its 44 Caliber, and has a Battle Ship engraved on the cylender.
My Question, is what all will I need to buy to fire it.
What size Caps, what kind of black powder, how how big of a charge should I use, everything I need to know about this gun, to safely use it.
Please help me get started.
It looks like it has a case hardened frame, but Im not sure, It may just be painted on.
Please Help.
 
1) Powder: Real black powder (Goex, Swiss, KIK) in 3fg granulation OR any of a number of substitute black powders such as Pyrodex P, Triple Se7en FFFG, American Pioneer, Shockey's Black Gold, etc.

2) Powder measure: adjustable from 5 grains to at least 50 grains

3) Powder flask or horn: not mandatory, but they are more convenient at the range

4) Round balls: probably 0.454 or 0.457, although 0.451 may also work. Try 0.454 to start. They need to be large enough that when they are pressed into the chamber that a thin, complete ring of lead is shaved off.

5) Filler, wads or grease: Corn meal or Cream of Wheat may be necessary to fill a gap between the powder and the ball if you're using a light load and the rammer will not push the ball down to seat on the powder; lubed or dry felt wads (wool felt, NO SYNTHETICS!) are often used between the ball and the powder to raise the ball in the chamber, provide anti-fouling lube and/or prevent chain fires; grease is sometimes used on top of the ball in lieu of the wad to perform the last two functions.

6) Percussion caps: the right size is a complete crap shoot; they could be anything. All you can do is buy some and try them out.

7) Cleaning patches

8) Cleaning rod with .44 cal jag, patch holder and brush attachments

9) Ear protection

10) Eye protection

11) Tooth whitener: you'll be grinning from ear to ear so you'll want to look your best

How much powder? If your gun is truly an 1851 Navy in .44 caliber then it's probably a brass frame. If so, limit your loads to less then 25 grains of real black powder or Pyrodex, or 20 grains of Triple Se7en. Repeated use of heavier loads will damage the frame. Otherwise, if you can verify it's a steel frame (remove the trigger guard and look inside) you can safely use all the powder the chamber will hold, but you'll find accuracy drops off if you use much above 25 grains.

And yes, read the sticky; lots of great info there.
 
Thanks MYKeal

Man I sure thank you, thats the information that I needed exactly.
Im new to this, so I tracked down what kind of revolver this is.
Its a replica of a 1860 Revolver, It has a notch in the butt and two extended screw heads on each side for mounting a buttstock.
It has an 8 inch barrel and looks really nice.
All the pictures I have found that look like it, say 1860 Colt Army, but its got Navy Ships on the cylender, So I figured they would call it a 1860 Navy.
Anyhow, I can see how these things can become adictive, I just cant seem to put the thing down.
Thanks again, and I will be sure to pollish my tooth before firing. :D
 
Tx

I am among those who think the 1860 pattern is the most attractive of all black powder pistols in existence. If it is .44 it is "Army caliber". Navy generally refers to .36 or more correctly "Navy caliber". If the pistol were .36, it would actually be an 1861 model. Very difficult to tell externally from the 1860 without examining the caliber. And an eqully beautiful pistol.

The case hardened frame is somewhat desirable over brass so you are a bit ahead in that area.

All of my 1860(1)s take number ten caps. Number elevens easily come off the nipples from the recoil, and fragment terribly when fired, making a lot of little bits to get into the works.

You are going to love shooting this pistol. It is a treasure.
 
The use of Army or Navy for naming the model is determined by the caliber; Army revolvers are .44, Navy revolvers are .36. The engraving varied only by date, not model. What you have is what we now call an 1860 Army. It will be a steel, case hardened frame. The coloring is chemically applied, but the frame is case hardened.

Here's some of mine:
0015.jpg
 
All the pictures I have found that look like it, say 1860 Colt Army, but its got Navy Ships on the cylender, So I figured they would call it a 1860 Navy.
Click to expand...

The Naval scene was almost a Colt trademark. If it had it you knew it was a real Colt.
 
MYKEAL!

You had to do it. You had to post photos of 1860 Revolvers! And with a GUN SHOW coming up!

How am I going to keep the budget in line if you keep playing these tricks!?

;)
 
Yep,

It looks just like the Revolvers in the pictures,
Especially the very bottom picture, there is no brand name on it, just ASM Black Powder only 44 Made in Italy.
And some kind of marking I would need a magnifying glass under the barrel and PN.
Its a beautifully made piece, Im glad the Itallians liked watching westerns.
I bet these Revolvers are just as good as the originals.
 
Hawg Hagen,

Thanks, Dang I looked them up, they are not supposed to be as good as the umburties, or other popular brands.
Anyhow, its a beautifull revolver, I hope it shoots alright.
Well it will get me started anyway.
 
I hope it shoots alright.
Click to expand...

It probably will shoot ok but it will be high at 25 yds so don't expect poa and poi to be same. Later on you may have problems with internal parts like the hand and bolt wearing out.
 
Hawg Hagen,

Can I buy Spare parts for it? I know they are out of business, but if parts are obtainable, I will get them, and put them away, for future use.
 
You may be able to fit Pietta parts without too much trouble. I think some of the guys here have done that. I doubt anybody has ASM parts. Maybe Fingers or Madcrate will know, maybe Mykeal.
 
VTI Gun Parts and Dixie actually still carry some limited parts, but Pietta internals are pretty much usable with perhaps a little filing/sanding.

Hey Doc - aren't they pretty? Yum, yum, yum. Trick or treat!:p
 
You're going to have a real problem finding a mainspring if it breaks. Mine did, and I had to have a custom spring made, as nothing in the replacements for Pietta or Uberti was long enough.

Finally, since the gun had been giving me so much trouble, I gave it to the gunsmith as opposed to having to pay him for the work. I know I got the better end of the bargain.

The Doc is out now. :cool:
 
Well with that information, now I know that due to my inexperience I have purchased junk, But its beautifull junk, so I will shoot it, till it breaks, then probably make a decoration out of it.
But it does give me the desire to own a good one.
Thanks for all of the advice, and honesty, you guys are great.

I did the same thing with my Single Action Rimfire, I started out with a H&R Rough Rider, and it broke, So I replaced it with a Stainless Steel Ruger Single Six, and have never looked back.
 
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