IDPA revolver beginner

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DanV1317

New member
Looking to get into shooting revolver in IDPA. I shoot a glock now but want to learn more about shooting a revolver and using it in competition. I have tons of .38 brass and bullets that were given to me from somebody who stopped reloading so i was thiking of maybe shooting a .38? I dont have to though. I was reading up on some S&W's, the 646 and 686. I am not going to ues this gun for anything except shooting in competitions so i dont need to worry about the knock down power of the caliber for defense use. I am also in college and dont want to spend a boatload on shooting .45 so that is out of the question. Either .38 or .40 i would prefer. What guns would you guys reccomend that are under 500$? or will i have to spend more? Just fill me in on the tidbits and stuff to get me going. THanks
Dan
 
If you already have the ammo...

...or at least the capacity to make it, i would suggest the .38. For an inexpensive revo, I would suggest the S&W Model 10 with a three inch barrel. It is older but will digest standard .38 loads all day long. Heard that J&G Sales had some 3" Mod.10's for $198. Add your shipping and whatever your dealer's transfer fee is. Should come up to about $250. Accessories aboud for the Mod.10. Check www.pistoleer.com for HKS speedloaders and pouches. Pachmayr for your grips. Any good gunsmith shoud be able to tune the action for you, and could do other repairs and upgrades, like new springs if you want. Good revolvers, easy to customize, inexpensive, and reliable. Should be right up your alley. Just be careful to make sure your reloaded ammo meets IDPA standards. Good luck with whatever weapon you choose and shoot safe.

BTW, the web address for those pistols is www.jgsales.com
 
For IDPA a S&W model 66 four incher would be ideal. It would handle standard .38s all day long and some .357s too. I wouldn't want to feed it a steady diet of heavy magnum loads, but would reserve that for mostly defense purposes. You can come across some good deals on police department trade-ins. A lot of these guns have some wear on the finish and grips, but have been shot little.

S&W Model 19, same as the Model 66, but in a blued finish.

A S&W model 10 with a four inch heavy barrel would also be a good choice for the same reasons above. This model has fixed sights, but would not be a problem for IDPA use.

S&W 586 or 686 also excellent choices.

Since concealment is not the primary purpose for this revolver, I would stay in the four to six inch barrel range. The longer sight radius associated with these barrel lengths will pay dividends in the accuracy department.

Go to gunbroker.com or auctionarms and look around a little to get an idea what is out there and the approximate going prices.

Good luck!!
 
I agree with the suggestion of a 19 or a 66, 4" (6" is not permitted in IDPA). Really, I'd look for the 66, just because a competition gun is so likely to get banged around, and stainless is easier to care for in this tough environment. The 66 is the gun I started shooting IDPA SSR with, and I still love to shoot it, though I no longer use it in competition.

These guns will use the cheap (/free) 38 resources you have available; there are tons of accessories available, including lots of grip and hoster choices, and the fastest speedloaders short of moonclips; they are dead accurate and among the most delightful guns in the world to shoot; they have adjustable and replaceable sights; and you can bump up to 357 if you ever decide to try a USPSA match.

If your goal is to learn to shoot a revolver and have a good time with it in competition, the 66 is just about certainly the way I'd go. If your goal shifts to mastery of the game at some point, be aware that you will end up with another gun, in all likelihood a .45 acp 625, which is what I now shoot in competition.

If you had a line on a 646 at a price you feel you can afford, and you are prepared to forego the advantage of all those 38 cases, then you'd have a gun you could use all the way up the ranks in IDPA. I've seen them used to great effect by a couple of master shooters.
 
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I recommend a magnum frame gun, either a 19 or 686. I have read a few but disturbing reports of .38s stretching their topstraps under a steady diet of .38 +P which at least some guns require to make power factor 125.

Get a 4" barrel. Longer is not allowed, shorter is a disadvantage.

Get adustable sights, not because they are moveable, but because they are bigger and easier to pick up and align on target.

Load moly coated cast bullets. Precision STILL isn't taking new orders, try Masterblaster http://www.masterblastersbullets.com/
Jacketed bullets take a substantially heavier powder charge to reach the same velocity as cast, conventional wax lubed cast bullets are smoky, and plated bullets have been less accurate for me, especially in a revolver.

Use Safariland Comp III speedloaders. Replace or cut the pistol grips to be SURE they clear ejected empties and incoming speedloaders.

Wear a Kydex holster and speedloader carriers. I use Ready Tactical Products, available at http://www.pistolpacking.com/revolverholsters.html

Have fun.
 
S&W 646, 40 S&W 4" L frame factory cut for moon clips. A new revolver S&W made for the IDPA game. Moon clip factory cut important as IDPA rules will NOT let you cut cylinder in a non moon clip revolver for moons. Price around $500 = or -. Do a search on www.gunbroker.com etc.
 
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