ID 1890s Small Ring Mauser?
- Thread starter louvier74
- Start date
Mike Irwin
Staff
Welcome to TFL, Louvier.
Given the disparate nature of the firearms in the first set of posts vs your rifle, it would have been much better had you started a new thread.
I've moved your posts into their own thread with the proper title, which will draw more attention and, hopefully, answers.
Given the disparate nature of the firearms in the first set of posts vs your rifle, it would have been much better had you started a new thread.
I've moved your posts into their own thread with the proper title, which will draw more attention and, hopefully, answers.
It looks like an 1893 Spanish Mauser, possibly not the best choice for a high intensity cartridge like the .243, but if you keep loads reasonable, it should be OK. The safety has been altered, possibly to fit under a scope.
Are there any markings on the receiver ring?
Jim
Are there any markings on the receiver ring?
Jim
no marking i can see except the e and the x
1893? Thanks is there anyway to tell anything about the serial number? All of the metal seems nice andsturdy, ive put 60 rounds thuu it allready it seems fine. I did sandbag it and shot the first box inspecting each shell for expansion and odd mark...nothing so im getting to trust it. Im still amazed that a gun that old is still functioning so well. Any advise on customization to increase the value? Is it worth anything.
1893? Thanks is there anyway to tell anything about the serial number? All of the metal seems nice andsturdy, ive put 60 rounds thuu it allready it seems fine. I did sandbag it and shot the first box inspecting each shell for expansion and odd mark...nothing so im getting to trust it. Im still amazed that a gun that old is still functioning so well. Any advise on customization to increase the value? Is it worth anything.
is 243 a common round for these.
What is the max grain I should use, is that what you mean? Im sorry this is my first rifle and of course I had to get a customized gun that is 120 years old....but looks like its from the 60s lol.. thank you for helping me out on this and thanks for putting my thread inthe right area to be seen.
What is the max grain I should use, is that what you mean? Im sorry this is my first rifle and of course I had to get a customized gun that is 120 years old....but looks like its from the 60s lol.. thank you for helping me out on this and thanks for putting my thread inthe right area to be seen.
You have what was originally a cock-on-closing Mauser 1893 (Model 93) as made, usually in 7x57, for the military of Chile, Spain & Turkey.
It doesn't have the safety improvements of the later, cock-on-opening Mauser 1898 (Model 98), and will eventually suffer under even factory ammo - as owners sadly found out with the specimens altered to 7.62NATO, which is a low-powered .308 Winchester, the parent cartridge of the .243 Win.
Yours has had the flag safety lowered & elongated, and the triggerguard bow tapered (front to rear), along with the custom stock.
The trigger looks to be the original non-adjustable military issue.
What's done is done, and as posted above, you are well advised to keep your handloads low & slow.
.
It doesn't have the safety improvements of the later, cock-on-opening Mauser 1898 (Model 98), and will eventually suffer under even factory ammo - as owners sadly found out with the specimens altered to 7.62NATO, which is a low-powered .308 Winchester, the parent cartridge of the .243 Win.
Yours has had the flag safety lowered & elongated, and the triggerguard bow tapered (front to rear), along with the custom stock.
The trigger looks to be the original non-adjustable military issue.
What's done is done, and as posted above, you are well advised to keep your handloads low & slow.
.
mapsjanhere
New member
Jim Watson
New member
You show a sporting rifle built on the 1916 Spanish Mauser. It is the 1893 design with oval gas escape port and thumb notch for easier stripper clip loading.
The various stamp marks you show are what I call stamps applied by men long dead for records long lost. Is there a crest or anything on the receiver ring?
Does the .243 marking mean it is now barrelled in .243 Winchester instead of 7mm Mauser? If so, it amounts to a +P loading with factory ammunition.
If you are a handloader, a manual starting load will give you .250 Savage velocity at 7mm pressures and be easier on the old action.
The various stamp marks you show are what I call stamps applied by men long dead for records long lost. Is there a crest or anything on the receiver ring?
Does the .243 marking mean it is now barrelled in .243 Winchester instead of 7mm Mauser? If so, it amounts to a +P loading with factory ammunition.
If you are a handloader, a manual starting load will give you .250 Savage velocity at 7mm pressures and be easier on the old action.
Jim Watson
New member
Well, lets see now.
It is unfinished and it is on an action not recommended for the caliber.
Resale value is low. It is all yours.
It is unfinished and it is on an action not recommended for the caliber.
Resale value is low. It is all yours.
louvier
when pushing the pin for the floorplate, you need to push the floorplate rearward simultaneously, and it should drop out. As far as loads, the 243 starts at pressures where the original loadings stop for those mausers, I have two of them 1893 long rifle & 1895 carbine and keep the pressures at 44,000 CUP (7x57) and below, they perform wonderfully and are pretty accurate for 80+ year old guns (mine were made in the 30's).
when pushing the pin for the floorplate, you need to push the floorplate rearward simultaneously, and it should drop out. As far as loads, the 243 starts at pressures where the original loadings stop for those mausers, I have two of them 1893 long rifle & 1895 carbine and keep the pressures at 44,000 CUP (7x57) and below, they perform wonderfully and are pretty accurate for 80+ year old guns (mine were made in the 30's).