I want to build a bolt rifle

M

Medic101

New member
I want to build a custom bolt rifle. My intention is to end up with something beautiful and accurate. I want to start with a barreled action, have a stock made of curly or quilted maple (Richard's, it's cheaper if I provide the lumber that i can get much cheaper than they sell it for.) Finish it myself, and gradually upgrade parts until it is of my liking. I also want it to be accurate, so the bones of the rifle, I feel should be inherently accurate i.e. Swedish M94/96, Swiss K31/11. Any other rifles I should consider to use for "bones"? I have a matching K31 with tag that I won't consider altering.
I have an already altered but nicely done 1903 that i could use but don't know if it's as accurate as I want. What "bones" could I use and where could I find a barreled action (less than the price of a whole rifle) of one without having to buy a good one and destroy its historical value?
 
Do you think a modern commercial barreled bolt action would be less accurate than those old military ones?

What accuracy do you want at what range?
 
What is your goal? Are you just wanting a iron sighted military rifle, or are you wanting to put a scope on it?

Manufacturing technology has come a long way in the past 70 years, so while a military barreled rifle may be reasonably accurate, it probably won't be as accurate as even a budget/entry level current production hunting rifle.

Most military barrels also have steps in them, which when not hidden by a full stock and handguard which is not all that aesthetically pleasing.

I put together a "scout" type utility rifle last year using a Israeli surplus, Czech/BRNO contract K98 Mauser action, with an inexpensive short chambered barrel from Brownells, in a already cut down/bubbaed WW1 Gewehr 98 stock. I am really pleased at how it turned out, and while it is minute of deer out to about 250 yards, I would not call it "accurate" when compared to a new Savage Axis. I would not call it "beautiful" either, but it does have IMHO a sort of businesslike charm to it.
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It comes to a matter of cost. I did consider a 700 but it would be more expensive pricewise, I mean I could afford a really good Swiss or Swede for the same or less money, but i don't want to ruin a good historical rifle but if such a rifle had already been altered.... Additionally I'm more knowledgeable about the Swiss and Swede and know they can deliver similar results without much work.
 
Find a "sporterized" Mauser 98. But first, buy Jerry Kuhnhausen's The Mauser M91 Through M98 A Shop Manual. A modified Mauser is a lot cheaper than an original, and someone else already killed its collectibility. But it's definitely buyer beware. Kuhnhausen's book will help you in that regard.

Of course, if you're patient you might find a Model 70 that's been run hard and put away wet. In any case, think a new barrel, professional reblue, etc. In other words, prepare to spend some money. Want to checker your new stock? Definitely a learned skill, and not that easy.

That's my 2 cents. Good luck!
 
If I was building a custom rifle I would never build it off a swedish mauser. Use a modern action.
How accurate is accurate?
I don't see a Remington 700 being more expensive, considering all the modifications needed to make a mauser work.
You will also have better trigger options with 700 or clone action and a lot faster locktimes.
 
The days of modifying a military rifle to a sporter as a more economical way of getting a quality hunting rifle are in the past. This made a lot of sense when they were a fraction of the price of the bottom of the line Remington or Winchester, and could be found by the barrel full in the local hardware store for $10. Those days are long gone.

Where are you finding Swede Mausers cheaper than a new entry level Remington?
 
Emcon, I intended to put a scope on it (another reason I want it pre bubba'd). And funny you should mention a Savage Axis. I happen to have one that was my first rifle that I feel no obligation to keep in its original configuration. The only reason I didn't immediately decide to do this rifle it that I had wanted something that shot a more potent round than .223.
 
Drilling a military rifle is pretty straightforward for any competent smith, but usually also requires some milling on the action, (usually grinding the hump for the stripper clip guide), but will most likely also require modifying the bolt. Many military rifles have a straight bolt, and even the bent ones will not clear a scope without modification.

Any modern rifle is going to come drilled for scope mounts, have a better barrel, better trigger, be lighter and most likely be more accurate than a converted military rifle.

It may be possible to find a old sportified military rifle someone else did some time in the past ~75 years, but they are going to be like Forrest Gump's box of chocolates.

Not sure what you are saying about your Axis, all the entry level rifles from Savage, Ruger, Remington, Howa, Mossberg, etc are available in a wide variety of calibers, with a bunch of options at $400 or below.
 
OK, time to resort to facts based on facts....

Why has no Swedish M94/96 or Swiss K31/11 barreled action been used in any modern rifle match producing best accuracy? That's the ones that win and set records. Hand held or free recoil disciplines
 
Take it from me, it is cheaper, and faster to use a modern action, rather than a military action.
First is finding suitable donor rifle. Those old barrels really don't want to come off sometimes!
Then grind the boss for the stripper clip.
BTW, when you take a straight edge from the top on the front of the receiver, you'll likely find as i did that the rear of the receiver sits lower.
Build up with weld & grind again to profile and make level with front of the receiver.
Raceway polish.
Square front of receiver, bolt, lug raceways, lugs.
I bought a Dakota 3 position safety (to clear the scope).
Timney trigger.
Boyds ATOne stock in purple (i'm building the rifle for my daughter).
22" barrel. #1 contour, fluted, polished, blued with purple in the flutes (daughter)with 11 degree recessed crown.
EGW one piece 20MOA base
Vortex Viper low rings
Sightron SI Field Target 4-12X40 scope with MOA reticle.

All together i'm going to end up with about $1,600 into it.

My rifle.
Stevens 200 in 7mm-08.$299
Reamed chamber & set back myself to 7mm-08AI.
After about 6,000 rounds throat is shot out.
Over run special from E.R. Shaw on 24" polished, blued barrel in 250 Savage $100
Rent 250 Savage headspace gages $20
Boyds Prarrie Hunter stock. $280

Yeah, go with a Savage action! Swapping barrels is relatively cheap and easy!
 
It is correct that you can buy a factory rifle for less.

But that is not the point for most of us that like to make our own.

You can buy a modular home cheaper then you can build a custom home too, but if you want the home of your dreams you build it. Kinda the same idea......
 
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If you want the utmost in accuracy but you want to use a barreled action you're spittin in the wind. Richards stocks are rough cut. Curly maple is hard to work. Unless you're experienced with it and have the proper tools for it I'd use something softer like walnut. I've had a few rifles built on Mauser and Springfield actions and it's not cheap anymore. Back in the 80's when I was doing it just having the holes for the scope mounts drilled and tapped was 10 bucks a hole. Then you have to have the bolt handle replaced. I've only seen one rifle with a stretched and rebent bolt handle that looked halfway decent. I have it but I have no idea who did it. Then to make it look good you'll want the stripper clip hump ground off and the trigger guard narrowed or replaced with an aftermarket. You'd be better off finding a clunker Winchester or Remington action and go from there.
 
I forgot about the Parker Hale aluminium trigger gaurd with hinged floorplate. $80

You can also get a new Dumoulin Herstal action.
Orrrr.....

Find an Interarms Whitworth Mark X. Rebarrel, restock. They already come with good adjustable trigger.
I've seen a few floating around for under $300.
I did one this way. Love the rifle! Hate the 10 lbs it weighs!!!
 
When picking a suitable donor action, make sure you have picked a suitable cartridge that will work in said action without a ton of work to make it fit.
I have 6 customs, and yes a prementioned they are expensive if a military action is the donor.
I think I'd go to pawn shop and find a 700 rem, on it's last leg and send that off to Smith.
There's way more affordable parts for those actions available today.
 
I'd keep as many options open as possible for a Mauser action, a commercial action will save you money in the long run. That said there is no reason a suitable military action cant be used. I like the JC Higgins M50 rifle for a donor if you can find one for the right price. They use a FN action, the only think I don't like about them is their trigger set up. Close second is a HVA 1600 series small ring 98 action.

My buddy just experienced one of the hazards of using an old military action. He built a 6.5X68s on a 1909 Argentine action, while developing loads he experienced lug setback and destroyed his action and bolt. He had no catastrophic failures and no one was hurt, excpet his pocket book by building the rifle twice.

I've used Richard's microfit several times and they provide a serviceable product, but to put it plainly their inlet always sucks. More often than not the barrel channel isnt inline with the action inlet, which is extremely under or over sized. Plus there is almost enough wood to build a second stock if you wanted.

If you want a nice custom stock I would buy their cheapest walnut stock in the style you want and use it for a pattern stock. Once you get the pattern built the way you want find a duplicator and send your blank and pattern stock to them. I really believe you'll be more satisfied going this route.
 
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i bought this a 1893 spanish mauser(1922) at an auction for $60. in the next couple of years i(well, my gunsmith...) will d&t, timney trigger, 2 position safety, mannlicher stock and rebarrel it. this was to my 257 bob, but my youngest son has claimed it!!! it will be a 7x57 douglas rebarrel(it is a 7x57but the rifling is suspect).
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i also bought in an auction, a 98 mauser(1944) in 8x57 for $200. it will be my own custom rifle, although i don't what caliber it will be.
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i have a husqvarna m46(1936) in 9.3x57 that is currently at the gunsmith. it needs d&t, 2 position safety and bend the bolt.
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i had a FN 98 mauser action and i built it into a 7x57. i gave it away to my oldest son. it was d&t, timney trigger, bolt was bent, and a bishop stock (yuck, plastic) was put on.
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https://i.imgur.com/Ee3UHwD.jpg

i have too many irons in the fire that a disability paycheck can handle!!! i wish i could go back to younger days when all you need is a win m94 in 30-30, a couple of bullets, knife on your belt and a drag rope in your hunting vest!!!
 
Take a look at the Zastava M70 available at cabelas for $350, plus/minus. They are real Mausers with excellent polish and blue. Great metal work. The stocks are poorly finish. It is a GREAT start for a custom project. Dont let the price fool you. Just go look. Ok, dont take my word or let anyone tell you I am wrong. GO LOOK !!

These are avaliable now, not 20 years ago or after months of travel around and paying more than planned. And IMHO - sure nicer than a mil-surp or a Remington.
 
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